Nanafalke

First of all, thanks a lot for your explanations. 

On 1.6.2018 at 12:31 AM, timgunn1962 said:

As I understand things, a flame retention cup works much like a forge-in-miniature, causing a donut-like ring of flame to form on the "shelf" where the diameter steps up, keeping the flame attached. I make my flame retention cups with a short length of pipe twice the size of the burner tube and odd bits of intermediate-sized pipe to fill the gap between them: loosely based on the design shown in http://amalcarb.co.uk/downloadfiles/amal/amal_gas_injectors.pdf.

I have found these retention cups work well when a burner needs to be run outside a forge.

 

The burner doesn't need to be run outside, I just did it for testing. It would probably be a good idea to put the burner in the forge and see how it performs. 

On 31.5.2018 at 9:51 PM, Mikey98118 said:

You need a long tapered contact tip

Sadly, I can't find those here in Germany. The only ones available are these tapered but not long ones. Not sure if they will work aswell. 

Best wishes 

So the flame retention nozzle is basically the flare? Or is there still a difference? 

I'm also not that happy with the current setup, if a long tapered tip doesn't improve the burner, I will just convert it to a T-Burner. 

Now I have to find those long mig tips, they are not that common here. 

Thanks a lot for your help

Best wishes 

Thanks for your feedback. Actually, there are 3 videos and there is no picture of the flame. Maybe you refer to the preview image of one video? 

I searched for a 3/4" burner on hybridburners.com and found this. Is the part I marked referred to the flame retention nozzle? 

I properly mounted the propane supply with 6 screws now and tested again.

Here are the results: 

If you can't see the vimeo videos, here are the links:

https://vimeo.com/272741216

https://vimeo.com/272741527

Picture of the flame, 0.2 bars

If the burner doesn't burn as hot as expected, I still can convert it to a t-burner. Just thought why not try building one with parts I already have at home. 

Best wishes

Burner at night.mp4

Burner light.mp4

Hey,

I think I will take a few shots at night when I have time again, so the flame is more clearly visible. 

Best wishes 

Hey,

after studying for some class tests, I finally had time again to work on the forge. 

I tested my burner in the forge and the flame seems to rotate pretty good: 

Sadly, my burner design doesn't burn hot enough as you can see here:

So I replaced the 1mm nozzle from the gas torch with a 0.6mm mig tip and that already worked better. Then I removed the shroud and just put the nozzle in the pipe, fixed by two screws: 

That resulted in this flame: 

In the beginning it is burning at 0.2 bars (3 psi) and then I increase the pressure to 1 bars (14.5 psi). 

Do you think it is burning right in the last video? 

Thanks alot

Best wishes 

Thanks a lot for your feedback  

21 hours ago, Exo313 said:

That said, I'm curious to know what you used, given that product availability is likely different in your area?

19 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:

 Basically, mortar/cement isn't able to deal with direct flame impingement. 

I used [commercial link removed]. The website is in german, but to sum up, the cement is used in blast furnaces, able to withstand 1600 C (2912 F) and can store heat. 

The cement is recommended by many people from german blacksmithing forums, so I have high hopes that it will work as expected. 

19 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:

You are wrong about moving the burner closer to the exhaust opening; it is common to see forges with the burner close to this opening; that doesn't make it right; it just means we get tired of pointing this out. Intentionally or not, you put the burner in the right place; don't move it.

Good to know, thanks  . True, all images of forges I saw so far either put the burner in the middle or closer to the opening.

I intentionally put the burner in the middle of the forge, but because I did reduce the size, the burner moved back in respect to the interior room, unintentionally. 

18 hours ago, Jackdawg said:

Looking very nice.

What are you going to use it for? Finding yourself a firebrick or two to sit inside as a floor that your stock can sit on can be helpful to make the lining last longer. Also acts as a sacrificial floor if your going to use borax.

 

 Thanks .Im planning to forge blades and tools (tongs), maybe axes one day, damascus steel would also be interesting. Yeah, definitly using a firebrick for the floor, especially when forging damascus. 

14 hours ago, WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith said:

Too late but check out the Build a Gas Forge attachment at the Forge Supplies page on my web-site. 

Going to take a look, thanks  .

I tried running my new burner, but sadly, it doesn't get enough oxygen. Probably have to enlarge the air intake. 

Best wishes

Hey,

a few weeks ago, I started building my first gas forge. I live in Germany and we got those 11kg propane tanks that make a good shell for the forge. For the isolation I use ceramic fibre and fire cement. Of course I used a respirator while working with the fibre. 

Here are some pictures: 

And a little stand:

Yesterday I isolated the tank:

I shaped the interior room oval, I read, that this shape has it's advantages in the Forges 101 thread. If I would build it again, I would probably have moved the burner hole a bit further to the opening, because I put more material in the backside. Now I let it dry 2 - 3 weeks and then I will weld two u-profiles to the front to be able to close the opening with a firebrick and two pipes to the side for a workpiece holder. 

Feedback is highly appreciated

Best wishes

I disassembled everything and cleaned up all pipes and holes. Now at 0.2 bars it works just fine. So there was something jamming. I also removed the valve because it broke while fastening the pipes. Interestingly, now it draws too much air, resulting in blowing the flame out. The airintake needs to be covered quite a lot for a stable burn. But calibrating the burner outside the forge would make no sense. Thanks for your help so far .

Im going to build the forge out of a 11 kg (24lbs) propane tank with 2 layers 1" ceramic wool isolation and aprox 0.8" firecement.

What do you guys use for regulating the pressure? At the moment, I have a pressure gauge from 0 to 1 bar (15 psi) installed at the burner and I regulate the pressure with a 2.5 bars (36 psi) pressure reducer simply by turning the valve of the tank. Are there better regulators where you don't have to mess with the valve of the propane tank and control it more easily? 

Best wishes

Not yet, I still have to build it  . The thread for the mig tip was leaking, that probably let more gas run into the pipe. So that probably lead to more gas in the combustion. 

Strangely, now I have to really crank the pressure up for a proper flame. Seems like something is jammed.

Didn't know that just a little change could have an impact on the combustion. Thanks for the information. I have 9 more mig tips, will try them out tomorrow. If that doesn't help, I probably have to realign the pipe.

Thanks alot for your help. I actually ran this burner at 0.2 bars before and it worked just fine, sadly I had to replace the 1/8" pipe with a new one, because the thread I cut in the pipe was bad and it didn't properly seal after a while anymore, even with ptfe. That the same burner doesn't work at 0.2 bars anymore confuses me. 

Video of the "old" burner: 

Hey,

I just finished building my forge burner, it is based of Will Matthews Design and uses a 1/8" pipe and a 0.6 mig nozzle with a couple other fittings.

Here are some pictures: 

Sadly, at 0.2 bar (2,90075psi) it is not burning well, makes a weird sound too. If I increase the pressure, it starts burning correctly. 

Video of it burning, first at 0.2 bar, then I increase the pressure and decrease it in the end:

My theory is that it may be drawing too much air, but even if I cover the back of the bell reducer, the flame doesn't get better. 

Thanks alot!

Best wishes