Leo33

Yeah, here is the image for the "Arrowhead extractor" from Hector Cole's site.

Google "Hector Cole Arrowsmith". I think that he does the best work that I've seen with arrowheads. I'm sure his reproductions are historically accurate too. He is a true master. There is some stuff on youtube, but most of it is not good quality work.

This link might work as well.

http://www.evado.co.uk/Hector%20Cole/index.html

Leo33-

Hello ofafeather,

Check out the North East Blacksmith Association housed at Ashokan N.Y. The blacksmith shop there should be able to get you some steel, if not they'd be happy to give you the name of their local supplier. They are located just a bit west of Kingston NY. Website is

Northeast Blacksmiths, Home Page

If you e-mail the president (link on page), he'd surely give you some information.

Leo33-

ANVIL FOR THE GARDEN!!! This bothers me. There is this women who lives in my area and she is quite wealthy and buys up a lot of the local anvils from the antique and garage sales so that she can paint them to look like ducks and stick them all around her garden and property. Now obviously, she has every right to do this but, it burns me bad to see one of these beautiful pieces of history end up as a duck. If I only had the $$, I'd save them from their ridiculous demise. Oh well... she's not gettin' mine.

Leo33

Hi Tim,

I do a lot of forging with hardwood charcoal and to support the other replys, you can do just about anything with it and it's clean, clean, clean. Forge Welding temperature can be obtained fairly easily with the right fire. I'm not that concerned with the speed at which I use up my fuel, because I have a lot of access to hardwood and I make a lot of my own charcoal. I have also bought bags of it at Lowes, and my local grocery store which carries a lot of hardwood charcoal, especially in the summer months. The charcoal does release a lot of sparks, (fireflies) as mentioned above. I've never come close to starting an unwanted fire from this stuff, although it is better to be safe than sorry. However, I always catch a couple of sparks on the hands and in the face, and they do leave little burns, so protect yourself. Happy Forging!!

Leo33

Thanks for the information. I'll give it a go this weekend. Maybe post some pictures when I'm done.

Leo33-

If I wanted to forge a broadhead for an arrow??: Could I forge a simple four-sided tapered Bodkin and flatten it? Has anyone done this before? I guess I could just try it and get back to you, but I'm just trying to save some coal.

Looks like you could make roses with them. A lot of the work is already done for you. They would be small, but would be cool to then put them on a vine!?? If you're not familiar with making them, there are some good blueprints for them. Also some decent youtube videos on making them.

ThomasPowers,

Correction to my post above. I said that I have a large Fisher Anvil, 220 lbs. Incorrect; YOU have a large Fisher. 500+. Must be a beauty!

Leo33

I have a large Fisher/Norris, approx. 220 pounds. Year 1936. I love it. It is my primary anvil. Excellent quality and as posted above, very quiet. The anvil has little to no ring in it, don't get thrown off by this. Base softens the ringing sound. Face plate is very hard. One of the better anvils you could buy in my opinion. If you can get a good deal on one, definitely scrap it up. If not send it my way. (Just kiddding) Good Luck.

The top does come off. There should be two machine screws on the top down near the casting for the blower fins. Take these screws out. The top casting then slides backwards to come off. It rides along a groove. When I first got mine, I had to tap it lightly with a few mallet blows to loosen it. Be careful!
As far as lubrication. I haven't found the blower to be too picky. As stated above, 30 wt. oil would work fine.

Good Luck.