jevaccaro

I have been building muzzle loading rifles since 1960. Original barrels were forged from wrought iron. A barrel properly forged from a rr spike would work fine. The key being properly forged. Thousands of muzzle loading barrels have been made from 12L14. I have never made a barrel, but am familiar with the process. The video Gunsmith of Williamsburg is now available from the Williamsburg foundation in DVD format, it shows the process as well as lock making. Also take a look at this web site http://www.housebrothersproject.com/home.html click on Gallery and enjoy the work of masters. I enjoy learning new things, forging a barrel would be one, but I wouldn't try it on my own. Please find someone to help with this project. I once heard a saying " a gunsmiths barrel will hold the pressure of a shot, a blacksmiths barrel won't leak if you pour water down it". No inference intended. John

MarkC -- Thank You for the compliment. I'm better at the forge than writing, which is not saying much either way. Here goes.
Forging one piece spurs: Here is one way.
1.use large enough stock ! 5/8 square is a good size.
2.Split about 5 inches for the heal band. I used to use a cutoff saw, now I have a metal cutting band saw.
3.Heat and spread the heal bands. Forge the center till the cut cannot be seen. Some bend the heal bands at this point, I prefer to wait as it makes the rest of the work easier.
4.At this point I bend up the ends of the heel bands if they are going to be bent. Straight heel bands with a fixed button require heel chains to keep them in place. Spurs with raised ends or with swinging button hangers don't use heel chains.
5.Cut the chap guard with a chisel or hack saw. I start the guard with a hack saw then raise it on the edge of the anvil. Get a good heat. Put the cut on the edge of the anvil and drive it down by hitting the inside of the heel band in the center. Doe's this make sense? I don't have a picture of this operation. That is the way I got the flat faced chap guard.
6.Now shape and bend the shank. Much grinding and filing will come latter.
7. Bend the heel band. I made a plate with a

So the shank and the heal band are one piece? Or is the shank welded on?

bobinbama -- They are one piece. Cut the rasp in half cross wise. Split about 4 1/2 - 5 inches for the heel band, and fold it length wise. The split part makes the heel band, the solid folded part becomes the shank. I weld the open side of the shank as well as the center inside of the heel band.
John

MarkC -- I'll get something written up, with pictures, in the next few days. Bruce Chaney has some good videos on spur making. He lists some of his things on e-bay. John

If I can get another picture to go I'll show a one piece spur. It is an historical pattern, forged from 3/4 x 12 inch piece of sucker rod.This is the 4th try at this picture. It better go this time. John

MarkC -- Here is a picture of the rasp spurs from a previous thread. These are made by cutting the rasp in half, splitting lengthwise about 4 1/2 inches, folding it over, shaping the shank, shaping the heal band. I weld the open side of the shank and split it with a cut off saw for the rowel.I also forge one piece spurs in historical patterns.
Hope this helps John

Nice work no doubt.......could you post pics of the leather straps showing how they are fastened to the boot?

rthibeau-
I apologize for not getting back to the forum sooner. I have let work interfere with things more enjoyable. Do these pictures answer your question?
John

easilyconfused.
I am SORRY for not getting back to the forum for so long. Too many fires to put out. The shanks are folded and mig welded. I think forge welding would mess up the "rasp" pattern. John

I made a hunting knife out of a chain saw bar a friend gave me. As I recall it was an Oregon Bar about 3 feet long. The smaller ones are laminated. This one hardened and tempered like carbon steel and made a very good knife. I dressed and skinned several Elk, Deer, and Antelope with it be for my son lost it. I have made another one but have not used it much yet. I triple heat treated it. Heated it to critical and quenched in Marvel Mystery oil.
John

Mine is not very imaginative. It was made by I think the name was Hanson.
John

Do you make your rowels also?

Hi Sweany -- I made the ones in the sucker rod spurs. The ones in the rasp spurs I bought. You can't buy rowels thicker than 1/8", so I make the heavier ones. They are tedious at best.
John

Sorry to be so slow in replying. The thread Rasp Spurs shows the same basic method of making these spurs. Split about 4 - 4.5 inches from both ends, cut it in half, fold, forge the shank, spread the heal band. I weld the center of the heal band and the open part of the shank. They are quick and easy to forge, sanding off the teeth is the slowest part.
Here are pictures of forged one piece spurs. These are made from a 12" piece of 3/4" sucker rod. Any one else making spurs?
John
I'll add that one rasp makes one pair, there was some question about that.

I made these spurs for a local horseshoer. I split the rasp the length of the heel band on both ends, cut the rasp in half, and folded it over long ways, then forged the shank. I have seen others done with just a more or less straight shank. These in my opinion have much more

Thanks for the replys. I'll try working it hotter still, and lighter hammer blows.
John

This is from a piece of scrap I picked up some where. A 5/8's rod. I suspected it was wrought iron, so I cut half way through and broke it, showing the grain structure (Pic #1). It heated easily and was very soft when hot. When I tried to bevel the end, the grain started to separate. I tried working it hotter, that helped some, when it cooled at all I was in trouble. I was making a paper towel holder with a leaf finial. Fullering for the leaf caused more

I'm new to the forum, each time I log in I'm reminded I not posted any thing. So here goes.

I have been making knives for a number of years. Mostly for family and friends. I like fixed blade hunting knives, and bowie knives. Here are 2 I just finished. I bought a sterling handled cutlery set on e Bay for I think it was 10 or 12 $$$. The blades were set in cutlers rosin, a little heat removed the old blade and fork. My new blades were ground(though I prefer forging) from 1x3/16, 01. I recently bought a Grizzly 2x72 sander, what an improvement over my old 1x42 sander. I'm still having trouble with the plunge cut and straight grind lines. Keeping the lines well defined through the final polish is a challenge.

Soldering the thin handle to the heavy guard and blade was difficult. I made a fixture to hold the handle tight to the guard. The procedure was to solder the guard to the blade, fill the handle with cutlers rosin, warm it and the tang, put the blade in the handle and clamp them together for soldering. This kept the rosin from bubbling out from the heat of soldering.

Making the sheaths took more time than making the knives. The spear point was not so bad, but the clip point was a pain. I'm not very happy with it, but my youngest son loved it so it's now his.

Finishing is my weak area, I need to learn to use the finer belts on the sander, and improve the polishing.

Any critique or marketing ideas will be appreciated.

John Vaccaro