ArcticSmith

Thank you Frosty, Exactly what i was looking for. Now all that remains is to find all these parts in a country that uses metric haha  

I managed to find a Fire Extinguisher, I tought it could work for a small forge. Its 6" diameter and 16" high, Im not sure about the thickness of the steel. Could it work as a forge? it has some numbers on the side, it shows "L5151 -03 1050" and im guessing 1050 is the steel quality.

Coca cola for scale.

Thanks for the answers Frosty and Mikey, I really appreciate you taking the time to answer me.

I did indeed think it was too large, and i havent really calculated the inner measurements, its all guessing from eyesight. But nonetheless i wont use it as a forge, I'll find myself a smaller piece, a 10" Stove pipe, a smaller propane tank or anything that i can scavenge from around here. The ammo box sounds pretty perfect, but i doubt we have those easily accessible in Norway. And no, i was not planning on leaving the Ceramic wool open so i can breathe in the particles that it emits, i wanted to coat it with ITC or something that works as a hotface and protection of the wool for when i want to try pattern welding without ruining the wool with the borax. While im on that topic, how do you protect your furnace with from melted flux? do you put firebrick inside for when you are using flux? 

I'd say i have the skills to make such a thing, Im educated as an Industrial Mechanic, I used to work for Rolls Royce before the oil price dropped and put tens of thousands out of work here.

You made the floor of the forge onto a jack so that you can raise and lower the inner height of the forge? Sounds like a masterpiece.

As Mikey said that you are using zirconium sicilate for the hotface? Would you mind teach me how to make it? its either that or the Plistix/Metrikote that Wayne suggested.

For the burner, would it be preferred to angle it so that the flame/heat follows the circular wall and heats up the forge evenly? I added a professionally drawn picture. And im thinking about going for the T burner, it seems like the easiest one to make, i dont need a forge which is really well made, just one that works without blowing up in my face or falling apart, im really eager to start hammering metal haha.

Also, i found another picture on google, I believe it is a design of yours Frosty, would this be a viable burner design i could use?

Also, do you have any books to recommend for beginners?

Oh alright, i'll check into that aswell.

The thing is that im not really sure which design suits my forge the best. Its made of a propane tank which is about a foot and 1/2 of a foot wide and up to my kneecap in height. I might find a smaller tank because its mostly knives i will try to make. Which burner designs do you recommend Mikey? 

Thanks, i'll read up on plistix and metrikote before i decide. 

Hello, im about to build by first gas forge and im going to use 1 layer of 2" kaowool and then coated with 1/2" layer of itc-100.

kaowool i find easy and cheap on Ebay.

But itc-100 on the other hand has been really hard. I cannot find an European supplier and the shipping prices from U.S is twice the price of a pint of ITC..

64.50$ for a pint of ITC-100 but shipping to norway costs 160.34$ with USPS International Mail. Do anyone know of any suppliers in EU in which i do not need to sell all my family heirlooms to pay for shipping? 

Prices where aquired from Anvilforge.com

also, is there any websites where they sell dufferent tubes, pipes, nozzles and everything i need for the burners? 

On 5/16/2016 at 9:41 PM, Foundryman said:

There's also what appears to be a diamond shape with letters issue stamped beside the 38.

The hardened steel face of an anvil is finite, in some cases they are very thin and without it's hardened face an anvil is nothing but a block of iron. By grinding away the face you reduce the life of the anvil and actually make it a worse tool.

huh, i didnt know that! thanks for the answer  

Okay i will do that. May i ask why its bad for anvils? Thanks

Here is mine, I made it when i used to work for Rolls Royce making Propulsion Systems/Thrusters as a fitter.

Not Forged, Was milled with a Cnc Machine after making 3D Drawing and codes for the Propeller Blade and insert it with USB stick into the machine  

Very Beatiful! I really like the finish on the branches, looks like its bark is carved with a knife.

I'd like to start off with saying hello, this is my first post on this forum and i look forward to posting many more. I have taken an interest in blacksmithing recently (though i think the interest has been there sub-consciously since i made 5-6 knifes at a Viking Festival here in Norway when i was 12, some 10 years ago.) 

So i have just started collecting tools and machines which i will need, and i was lucky enough to find an old anvil that has been in my family for perhaps 120 years if not more. My mother told me my Great Grandfather had owned it.

Its rusty but nothing too bad, the rust is not coming off in flakes, brushing it and grinding it a little should make it brand new. And it has a hardie hole but i could not find of the tools you put inside it.

The Inscription that i have managed to read says "Jahn" and i think there is a "&" after Jahn. (since a picture says more than a thousand words, here take a picture  )

I'd say it weighs around 40kg (90lbs). Anyhow, i look forward to putting it to good use after sitting in our barn for 70 years. 

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Thanks.

-ArcticSmith