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I Forge Iron

leroyk

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Posts posted by leroyk


  1. If you are using hard brick no reasonable amout of wrapping will help.
    If you already built it from insulating brick, then you have a burner problem.
    I built my little forge from 2 insulating bricks and then coated with ITC. with a tiny 1/2" burner I can melt steel. if I had that same burner in hard brick I wouldn't get enough heat to even bend steel, let alone weld.



    I am not sure but I think they are probably the hard brick. I just went to the brick yard and asked for fire brick and they are quite hard. Is there any soft brick less than i inch thick I could line the inside with? anything more would make the inside to small.
    I did notice that my propand presure droped form 15 lbs to only eight when I shut it off and the tank haad a lot of frost on it, maybe the loss of pressure was part of my problem
  2. This is my problem. I built a forge out of 2" fire brick just big enough for damascus billets. It is about 4 by 4 " in side I do not think it is getting hot enough. would raping the out side with inswool help.
    thanks for any help I appericate it Leroy

  3. Hi: if you trying tp polish somthing like knife blades after final sanding what you need are two different buffing wheels.
    fopr coarse buffing you need a sisal wheel which is made from hemp and coarse buffing compound like the black bar available from kova knife supply co. for finnish buffing a muslin buffinf wheel either loose or sewn one. I prefer the loose buff. there is a green buffing bar that really puts on a nice finnish; I hope this helps you lee

  4. Hi: Has anyone ever tried 01 steel in a mix with 15n20 and 1095 for
    a damascus billet. I have some 1/8 in by 1 in. that i would like to layer on the outside of my billet to protect the inner layers f rom burning away as i forge it? Thanks for any help, leroy

  5. rich: the other metals are 15n20 and either 1095 or 1084. not sure of brand of forge
    but it is a 2 burner. gets the metal tol almost yellow hot. I do n ot have a lotof forgeing experience but inthe past have been quite sucessful it is just the last 2 times that igotnthe seperation. The process i use is to bring billet nto red then flux and bring too brite orange and flux again and then back so flux isn bubbling a lot and then I pack hammer and flux again and get it bubbling again and then hammerit harder the 2nd time then reflux and back to forge when bubbling again i go at it with a 50 lb power hammer
    flux once more and repeat and then proceed to draw it out. and spoit and repeat process

  6. charlotte If you have osage orange in your area it is great for knife handles it is very hard and will never rot if you could get acess to old fence posts made from it they would already be dry. also those green things hanging from. If you put several in your cellar, they will repel spiders for a year or so. Leroyk

  7. i think you will find that most wood band saws that are over 5in. wide are 15n20 if you have alarge saw mill in your area that resaws there lumber to final size they go through several of these blades a year. and most sell old blades at scrap prices. the ones i use are about 24 ft. long You can cut these to width with a ironworker if one is avable to you. As far as banding steel goes it comes in two different tensile strengths the harder one is 1095 and forges very good with the 15n20 also if you can find it 1084 works even better than 1095 leroy

  8. I just aquired some peices of 01 steel. aI have not ever made any knives from 01 I think it is quality steel. It is precison ground and the peices vary anywere fro 1/8 by 1 in to 5/16 by 2 1/2 wide all are 18 in long there are12 peices in all. was wondering what the value of tem wood be? leroyk

  9. if you have a saw mill in your area that does resawing with a band saw they are usualy 15n20 I have acess to a blade like that. It is 6 inches wide and 24 ft long so one of these lasts a long time i cut it to size with airon worker. I think you will find that buying
    d2 steel from a mill is cost prohibitive actualy if you use the 15n20 with the 1095 and 1084 you will not have a real problem with rust if you keep a little oil on blade wnen not in use. also if you are new to knife making never store you iknife in a leather case as tanning fluids are very corrisive leroyk

  10. if youare just starting to forge weld the best pattern getting steels are a mix of 1084 and 1095 and 15n20 the 15 n20 is an alloy with some nickel in this will produce a nice contrast and also makes a very sturdy knife leroyk

  11. P.S. if you try this make sure you pour the acid into the water and not the other way around. If you put the water into pure acid you will have a very bad experience it likes to blow up lee

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