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I Forge Iron

cowboyup

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Posts posted by cowboyup

  1. No i just have 6 of them to do and i dont want to screw any of them up. Im just using hand tools and dont want to have to keep reheating them. ive never tempered anything in my life except for air tempering pritchels. The guy has 200 tips a week he want me to do and he said he could get me 2000 of them a week if i do a good job so if really just saying my prayers and hoping i do a good job. im just a ferrier but hopefully this will lead to me getting a power hammer and getting a business going.   

  2. Good Morning,

    You didn't pay attention to what Grant said. Don't let them cool between forging and heat treating.

    I made and used a scissor type of jaw for a hydraulic press when I first started. I use a power hammer and an induction forge now.

    If you aren't using Power something, I wouldn't bother starting. I harden with water and draw the temper to straw. I have used three different quenching oils and I get the most consistent results with water.

    Neil

    what kind of power hammer do you have swedefiddle? Maybe i can get a power hammer in a month or so. Thanks for the input. It wont be a problem if i grind the tips after the first quench and then reheat to temper them will it?

     

  3. I average 6 min a bit, in a propane forge thats with temper, clean up on a belt sander and a light rub with scotch brite. As I do more I am sure I can drop that time down. I am sure thinking about a induction forge. If I can cost one into the job with a quick pay back I think I will pull the trigger on one. I have been told that some do not even bother with the clean up but I think it makes it look more professional and my clients like the finished product better.

    what are you doing to temper them? I was asked to do 200 a week and have never done them before. Will be a nice job if i can get a good finished product. I will be doing them by hand in a gas forge. just not sure about quenching and tempering.    can you give me the best steps to get started?  the best i can come up with is heat to cherry red draw and forge let air cool and grind to a point. Then reheat to orange and quench in oil?   is that good.  what oil do you recommend to quench in.

  4. Yeah i saw that .  im guessing it will be 1050, i read that thread also.   what would the heat treat process be on 1050?  heat to red let air cool and grind tip re heat to orange and oil quench at blue? One of the guys said draw out steel when the guy said he was just grinding the tips heating to red and quenching at blue kinda confusing me why you would draw out steel after you already had tip ground out. 

     

     

     

    Much faster to forge them if you have access to a power hammer - although we had a local smith who did them for years with just his good right arm; you would not have wanted to arm wrassle him. The City of San Antonio would bring out a dump truck full once a month and he did nothing but forge jackhammer bits all day long. $.50 apiece in the old days - I think he was up to a dollar by the time he retired.

    Your basic technique is OK but they may break without a draw after quench. Some operators will bus

  5. On 10/24/2015 at 1:49 PM, HWooldridge said:

    This is a 7 year old thread but I still think 200 bits a week is power hammer territory.  If this is steady work, there is no reason you can't go buy an 88 lb Anyang from James Johnson and get on with it.

    yes i would love to get a power hammer. Just gotta get the process right so i can get and keep the work.  im very confused about the tempering process would appreciate a 5 minute call from anyone with good insight or on here will do also. Best i can tell get them cherry red forge quickly grind to point and quench by time its blue.  then i have also read they need to be heated to light orange and oil quenched.  any help is appreciated.

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