rakessler

Here are some tools made from spring that I did because of the many questions I've seen about making some of your first tools. This spring ended up being 12' 6" long. I cut circles off it on the horn then straightened them in 3 heats being careful not to put any nicks or dings in the material. I then cut them on my hardy into 7" pieces. I forged the striking end first then then the working end. These are mostly one-heat square tapers, stop, or go to round in a second heat, or two sided tapers to form the chisel and fullers. I forge, grind, heat treat, test, and then it's ready to go.

This would be a nice starter set to think about making.

I finally sorted out my pictures (there were over 500) and here are some good ones, the first couple of shots were in Mississippi, the rest are from Memphis
http://picasaweb.goo...sman/Abana2010#

HELP
Last night I was searching I FORGE IRON. I am finishing up a tire hammer. I Got the
plans from Clay Spencer.
Somewhere on this site I saw some GREAT pictures of a workshop held by Clay.
The pictures were great and I would like to go back to that thread. The pictures
showed some excellent work being done and what made the pictures stay and interesting
was 20 Years age I lived there in Elgin South Carolina.
If someone could direct me to that thread of pictures it would sure make final assembly
of my tire hammer alot easier.I down loaded one picture, take a look.
I hope some one is listening , thanx

Hello
I am looking for someone in the atlanta Ga area, that has built a tire hammer.
Mine is finally getting assembled, I am going to very soon need the allignment
Gauge that clay uses to allign the hammer with the anvil. I could make one but
I figure with the popularity and all the hammers I have seen. I figure someone
out there must have the gauge already assembled, and perhaps would let me use
theirs for a little while.
I can only hop and wish. RalphAndrewKessler I live in central ga. 7708305670
I though I would add some info, the gauge sets the height of the 50 pound
hammer head and anvil. The gauge also sets every thing parallel because
as the head is set on the gauge which is already setting on the anvil you
are also putting in place the 4x4 that hold the hammer assembly. I hope this
helps those that are not familiar with the Tire Hammer.
I was hopping that someone who has already been through the process would
help in sharing the gauge discriped in the builders manual. Most would only
be using the gauge once or twice.
Thanx again RalphAndrewKessler

hello tire hammer is coming along very well this old dude is very happy with process. mounted tire to 5x5 post st and true, got my arms and bushing, now i found the mod for the BigSpring set up look great will make them sat at a machine shop down the road. Also my siding is being delivered This Friday so I will have roof and walls. Life can be good, but I have to miss this years BiAnnual. I will get some pictures and post them. I have had to raise the anvil and post height by 6". Easier on back. More to come.

First I want to apolegize for my spelling and the LARGE nasty print, I like the addition of the extra holes.
Along with the addition of surport around the holes. How did that modification work???????????????
Rakessler

Hello and please some patientence. This has been a very long term project. Perhaps because of where I live and funds to pour into a project. I have just about finished collecting and shaping drilling adding lead and all the basics. I am using a rear stub axle from a chrysler product. I have a 1 (one) inch thick base plate that is 2 x 4 ft, the rest of is as shown in clays book. I have all the sub assemblies made to clays book. I welded the plate that the stub axle bolts to. Was balancing the tire and rim using a spare stub axle and if that is not good enough , I will redo the run out on the stub axle mounted to the plate that is welded to 5 inch square x 1/4 inch thick wall main column. I am now ready to attach the 1/4 inch plate to the tire , but to me , with the way it is drawn once the plate is welded I will never be able to get to the lug nuts. Am I missing something or is there a common fix that I have not thought of. Like some extra holes that will not weaken the drive plate and make the lug nuts accessable. All help is appreciated and I can be kesslerdotra at gmaildotcom.
Thanks in advance and I really need so help.
RalphAndrewKessler

does anyone know a good store bought hot punch or equivlent

and i need to make a hot drift for a tomahawk head for the handle

what is a good steel i could use that i can find in a juckyard or scrap pile?

Please note that the phone number listed on the web info about roger lorance
309-647-9242 is WRONG

does anyone have the correct phone number.
I would appreciate correct number.
rakessler

OK I am looking for a coal forge cast. I have plans to build one from 1/2 to 3/4
by 6 or 8 inch wide hoy roll. Buy the time I Buy the material, cut, drill tap
assemble. I would have more than the cost of just buying a cast fire box.
SO who has a cast fire pot for sale. What companys still make and sell cast
fire pots. Thanks. With a roof on my new building and a tire hammer almost built
I want to get out of my rivet forge and into a full size unit asap.
RalphAndrewKessler Georgia
rakessler

Hello all i HAVE FINALLY OUT GROwND my rivet forge, so I have started
to chase a Good Thick Rectangurare ... Are there non to be had... have
they just gone passea, or am I looking for the impossible..... Any and all infomatiom is great fully appreciated..... Help please.
Tired
broke
on SSDI
please
RAKESSLER 770 214 1951

Been busy lately, after settleing on what to build , I was hard at work getting all the material ready for "pieces to sub assembly". I have been on the 4 toggle arms. So minor but no major messes. Now working on hammer head, getting it ready for lead. Also milling and drilling a ton of holes. I could only find a 5 inch diameter of 4140. (in my social security price range) I hope that is big enough ???????????? Got a 3 x 4 ft base and thicker wall column. After all the sub assemblies are complete. then I will attack and refine the fit to make the whole assembly. Also new shop building is all wood, now waiting on metal sides and roof.

I have noticed that some of the Tire Mechanical Hammer. Some are shown
using the type of bushings that are shown in Clay Spencer Design,
Then the are others using Rectangular or box steel tubing, and the Bearings
shown are Heim or Rod end bearings.
Infomation needed how well do the HEIM Spherical Bearing (bushing)
hold up to the pounding of the mechanical hammer.
They look strong but does the pounding weaken the more percise heim bearing
or are they as strong as the pressed in oil lite bronze into sch 80 outer
casing.
Thanks

I have collected almost all of the parts listed in the book I purchased from Clay.
I have also been all over the web looking at some Tire Hammers with small modifications.
Has anyone successfully mounted the tire with out turning the
inside face out.
Also I have noticed that a few have gone in different directions with the mounting and construction of all the toggle arms.
I would appreciate any infomation that I could get. My main purpose is to shorten the distance that the unit stands out from the main column.
Thanks RAKessler

Hello all
all is proceeding as I would expect. I have the cylinder, a air valve foot peddle.
I also have a ross normally closed. I can only get the cylinder to reciprocate by
keeping the foot pedel pressed and rocking the ross valve open and closed.
can I load a picture with this message. What am I missing ( no jokes) and how
do I correct it.
rakessler

On Saturday I purchased a #50 little giant hammer. I drove my truck to pick it up and after a half hour of blocking and strapping so as it was secure and on its face with no weight on the flywheel or other moving parts I drove on home. Upon reaching home the fact dawned on me that I do not own nor do I know anyone who does own a forklift or similar piece of machinery(that

Well, the local Parker rep hasn't been able to get the 5-way 2-position valve in yet, they are still trying to get it expedited. However Blacksmith's Depot does have it in stock now (probably got the only one in the warehouse) and reopened my order and will have it to me by Friday. This means I'm still on track. (Even though I didn't get any work done last night...watched a movie with my wife.)

Hello All
I have spoken to Clay Spencer and asked if there were any workshops in the for seeable
future. Clay said he tried to get one for Janurary, but not enough interest. Well it is march
I know I need a power hammer, I am asking is anyone else interested in have clay lead
a workshop. I know I can travel. So for me location is not an issue. So are there 10 to 15
blacksmiths and /or baldesmiths interested. If so then reply to this post or to me directly.
rakessler:cool:

Well I did more searching on this massive incredibly informative. I hav you will find it. I say thanks to all
if you look long enough it is there, have a much better knowledge of the valve ane to say that I think I have a handle on the piping. Thanks all
rakessler

Now that's a kn'eye beam! Get it? ("now that's a knoife!") Well, I thought it was funny! Anyway, looking good so far Todd Are you looking specifically for the air schematics? Here is a simple diagram from zoeller forge

Hello Glenn and others
My interest is strongly leading to "Traditional Joinery" . I want to start a thread , and think
I may have started one. I hope that is ok. Even though I am in the middle of a new shop,
and will need to build a new forge, I still have a strong interest in " the traditional forms of
blacksmith joinery". I hope that is ok, because in that area I am a novice and I can not wait to make my first frame using punched holes ( new tools ) and Tendions ( new tools ). It
thrills me incredibley.
rakessler:D

Hello All.
Love the site ,information is incredible. Helping me to build tools and such. I was hoping that the would be a section on "traditional joinery and work" . That is kind of where I want to take my work and with any division or level of blacksmithing there are always these that have done it before. Have the tooling to do it better, faster, and easier. I hope I would be able to find some of those that have similar interest. I know I need to get my new shop finish , but while I may not be pounding I still can be learning. "Like what in blazes is a MONKEY tool ":confused:

Hi,

I am hoping to make some hook tools for a pole-lathe for turning bowls this weekend. I picked up a few pieces of leaf spring from a scrap yard today. Do you think the steel generally in these car parts should be okay for making gouges and hook tools for turning, or is it really a hit-and-miss thing with scrap steel?

I have no way of finding out the carbon content other than the usual temper and file method.

Any thoughts?

Cheers,
Declan

Torin,
I recently completed a Kinyon-style power hammer. I have 2 schematics that I could email to you, if you wish. One is a hand drawing from Dave Mudge at the Magic Hammer Forge, and the other is a cad drawing, which is basically the same thing. Both use the secondary regulator that was designed by the guys at the Alabama Forge Council.
Pete

Hello
After you call and check, give me a call. I have four (4) SMC cylinders that look new.
The numbers are NCDA1B200-1600 maximum pressure 250 psi. 12 inch stroke
threaded end about 1/2 inch rod . I ask the same question just a little while ago.
Got no response , but I thought I would share what I have collected. I have valves
I have sensors. Now if I could get someone to help me fine tune the piping that would
be helpful. I was going to wait and take these to Madison, but if someone wants
I have a few extras.