Andrew Zimba
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Posts posted by Andrew Zimba
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I'm with you Charles. I believe your point of view is precisely why many (not all, but a fair number) of Filipino and Indonesian martial arts teach the short blade and/or the baton first, because those are the weapons most likely to be available. Long and short comes later, first with stick, then with the long blade last. There could be other reasons for this besides sheer availability, but it does fit nicely in that paradigm.
I'm also with you in that the weapon I'd be most likely to reach for in a close-range defense scenario would be the 4 in folder in my front pocket. Firstly because it's always there. Secondly because close-in, I'd prefer the flexibility of the blade over my CCW. Thirdly, I can readily demonstrate to a jury the difference between defensive blade wounds and attempted murder blade wounds.
In a more-than-arm's-length away situation, the CCW would be preferable over a 30" sword in most, if not all, present day settings.
If one were to ever defend one's self or family with a sword, it most likely would be in a situation where modern society was no longer functioning.
That doesn't mean one is not worth having, IMO, especially if all the other bases are already covered.
Plus, I want one...
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Before you get "set" on stock removal; be sure to look at some of Stormcrow's work he's posted here, brush swords, fighters, etc.
Stormcrow, huh? OK, I will check him out. Off to the search engine! Thanks!
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"Tachtical" brings baggage, as in real life practicalcombat use as aposed to martial arts practice, i missunderstood.
No, I think you understood correctly. I've bandsawed many a practice blade from aluminum stock. I'm now looking to build what those training blades represent.
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Ah, Newb questions. It's not the questions that mark you as a beginner it's the expectations. You lack enough knowledge to ask good questions but want specific answers. Without learning to blacksmith at least as far as heat treat is concerned, do you think you'd understand any of the tricks I use to prevent or control "sabreing" as you put it?
There's a LOT to know before YOU get to knowing what to ask and what to do with the answers. I'm not looking to discourage you but you're jumping the gun by a lonnnnggggg shot.
At this point in your expertise what do you care what the "best" steel is? Do you even know how it's going to be used?
Yes, Frosty, newb questions.
I actually realize I am doing this. I believe it is a part of gaining knowledge. I would bet that a lot of folks who are quite good now were in a similar state when they first got going...I see you quoted me out of context. I didn't ask what the "best" steel is. That would be similar to a little kid asking what the best martial art is or what the best car is.
I asked a much more specific question - "what would be the best steel to start getting comfortable with given that I know I'm looking to eventually move into the type of blades I've mentioned above?"
A really good answer would be something like "Well, given that you are not really interested in forging but only stock removal, and given that you are looking to work small blades in order to gain the knowledge needed to begin working progressively longer blades, you could {insert answer here}, because {supporting statements here}."
All I got from your post was 'shut up and read more' and 'just start working metal' with no real direction on either, which really is no kinda answer at all.
Honestly, in todays world, the short sword would be a more practical/tactical sword, be it a gladius, wasakashi or whatnot, longer blades realy shone for a horseman (think 9' tall infantry) sabers, longswards, katana are long, and take space to weild, in the open, your weapon will either lead to a rapid retreat or a hail of lead, wile in a close, builtup enviroment a more conceilable blade, somthing you could yeald in a closit or bathroom is the ticket, yes a longer weapon has some advantage of reach but from a modern standpoint, somthing 10-12" blade and 4-5" hilt is about max, single or double edged do not discount the curved blade, as slicing yp your aponent will end a fight with les risk to you than stabing him. Peaple die slow, dint expect the holywood 3 second death with a blade, unless its an axe to the base of the skull. The saber and katana took advantage of a a slicing blade and a peicing point. In side of 21 feet one can take a gunman befor he can raise bis weapon, but be worned, if hou stab him in the heart he is likely to shoot you befor the fact he is dead registers, while a slash to his gun hand will likely disarm him, and you can prosicut the fight. Honestly a knife the lenghth of your forging hammer is a bettor choice, and frankly the lowly hawk, in a weightof 8-16 oz with a 16-24" handle is just as effective at
ending a fight.
As to steel, and heattreat,
i bow to Steve and the other cutlers, but as to dispating an oponent? Don't look to hollywood, a guy with a 30" blade will draw fire, and it's a bear to wild in a room, or god
forbid a graple and overbare attack, give me a k-bar (boye) aplegate fairborn (bit stouter than the sykes fairborn) or such. Somthing i cam wieildin a tight spot.
Hi Charles! I've been involved in the southeast Asian martial arts for some time now, and am quite comfortable with small blades. My mention of longer straight blades is not because it's what I think I want, it's because that's what I know I like. I have swung a 30" stick in one hand while manipulating a 5" blade in my off hand since the early 90's, and when moving with other people's various long blades (there is a tremendous variation of blade styles in the SE Asian martial arts) I find that I really like a similar length (28-30") and shape (mostly straight) to the sticks I'm used to.
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For instance, what would be the best steel to start getting comfortable with given that I know I'm looking to eventually move into the type of blades I've mentioned above? 5160? 1060?
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I guess I just like to have the long game planned out. Definitely not going to jump into long blades right away, but I was hoping I could get some pointers to specific info on the site or elsewhere relating to non-curved single-edged blades.
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Hello all!
I've got a few questions for you guys. Now I have been doing a LOT of reading, and I hope these are not the typical newb kinda inquiries.
I wanna make a sword, but I realize there is a ton involved. I want to start out with some smaller blades first - a large knife, a machete-length blade, etc and work my way up to a 30-or-so-inch practical-tactical sword. Going to stick with stock removal, no forging. My MA training is in filipino/thai arts (both blade and stick), so i want to stick with relatively straight single-edged weapons.
Intuitively the thickness differential between spine and edge makes me think that sabering of the blade shape will be a major problem as blade length increases.
What steel would be best steel alloy to work with to avoid the issue as much as possible with the eventual long blade?
Most of the information I run across on single-edged blades have to do with katanas, so keeping a straight back does not seem to be a massive consideration. What needs to be taken into account when heat-treating longer single-edged blades in order to keep them from looking like a katana with point not in line with handle? Does the raw blade geometry need to be different to account for inevitable warping towards the thick side of the single-edged blade? Or are there heat treating processes that can minimize this type of differential contraction warping?
Many thanks in advance for any info you guys can provide!
Newbie questions
in Swordsmithing
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Really? Check it:
What's the best current production motorcycle for a Paris to Dakar rally given a max support crew of 3 in a Mercedes-Benz Sprinter van?
vs.
What's the best motorcycle ever, Daddy?
If you see the difference in those two questions as merely "excess verbage", stick to bangin metal and step away from the internet, dude.