The Armourer

I see what you guys are saying, thanks. 

I just had difficulty getting a good even heat, it would get hot but I suppose my design was somwehat flawed as I wasn't getting as large a heat as I wanted in somw cases, as in heating up whole railroad spikes, but it wasn't bad, my main problem was that my current side forge has to be rebuilt every time. I think I would find it easier to work long stock in a brake drum forge as opposed to my design, as in, heating up longer peices, like rebar and springs. Mine is similar to, but a MUCH heavier duty version of the basic one shown by Sparrow Forge? I believe it's called? I can make rr spike knifes and stuff no problem, but I think a bottom draft? forge is what I want as a semi permanent mobile forge. 

I have been using a side draft forge this summer, but I think I would prefer one vented from below. Mine got hot enough to melt horseshoes in half unfortunately, and I could easily work truck axles in it, but I don't think it fits my forging "style" if you know what I mean, like, how I like to forge and adjust things, but I will see once my brake drum forge is done, once I get back from vacation. If I don't like it I will go back to my side draft forge. 

He means to say side BLAST forge.

Side draft usually refers to the chimney.

Thanks. Currently I have been playing around with the idea of a brake rotor in a brake drum? I found one that fits perfectly, nice and snug and the downward pipe is extends without a gap, together 55 pounds, I kinda like the weight lol, could stand some heat! Or what do you guys think, bad idea, a waste of brakes? Unnecessary?

Alright, I have a question. I made a terrible side draft forge and used it to make a lot of stuff actually, but I really need a forge with airflow from below, so, the Brake Drum forge. I recieved both rotors and drums for free and was wondering which makes a better charcoal forge? Opinions, Ideas? 

I talked to the local railroad and they clarified things for me. Any bent spikes not attached to the railroad are fair game. Regarding straight ones, you can take any "truly abandoned" ones, meaning not on the step or track.

I have several friends who are high up in the railroad here, I have other friends who have just been given piles of spikes for free from the manufacturers and railroad. I have contacted them. Everyone collects them around here. I collected a few, now I don't need anymore. Some were 100 years old and almost rusted in half.

Oh course! Why didn't I think of that! Lol

I live in Canada.

On fridays those tracks are full of people going for walks along them. 

Hello. I have a railroad right by my house which has proved to be extremely fruitful in rr spikes, the 1 mile stretch has yielded 120+ spikes and plenty of vaious metal. This track runs north/south, and I have noticed that at least 85% of the things I have found have been on the west side of the track. Is this just coincidence or some sort of technique? Thanks.

Thanks Andy, I like some of those, I will play with those a bit.

That's what I was thinking, just being extra sure.

I even saw the sign on a Mcdonalds in California: this building contains chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer and other reproductive harm, yadda yadda yadda.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dNygH_09CwQ

Around 6:30

Recently I watched a video on a man making charcoal, and when he was handling the finished product mentioned that he should have been wearing gloves as the charcoal is carcinogenic? It was pine lump charcoal. I was under the strong impression that charcoal was not a carcinogen, and, if it was, I don't think wearing leather gloves would protect you much. I am aware that eating overcooked food cooked with manufactured briquettes could be carcinogenic due to the added ingredients, but am extremely doubtful of this mans statement in the video. Could anybody offer some insight?

Thanks Charles. I have some things to chew on regarding a touchmark, thanks.

Thanks for the replies and help. I agree VaughnT, the size will be an issue, thnk you. Also, thanks neg for the design you finished for me. I like that ff, but I just don't want people to think it symbolizes the swastika or nothing eh?

Thanks, I appreciate the advice, I will play around with the f's.

Hello. I have recently been going over some touchmark designs to use for myself and have one idea which I think might work and I will show it below. I just scribbled it on a piece of paper lol. This is as complex as I can do. Any advice or criticism is welcome. The ff is for Fehr Forgeworks, Fehr being my last name. The helmet design is based on my forst helmet I ever made, 2 years ago about and I have used it as a logo before, in school and such. Do you think I should include the ff? Will it work? Thanks and if this is in the wrong place then moderators, please move it or delete it if you see fit.

Ok thanks. I will try to find a place to sell my scrap and just stick to forging.

Ok thanks. Just to be clear I was not going to try pouring it, just melt it in the pot, and I know enough about casting that I know that I don't know enough, if that makes sense. I guess I will have to find a different crucible. Maybe I could carve one out of stone and try it with small amounts of aluminum first. 

Ok, Use a lot of copper and always collect the copper shavings and dust and such, and seeing as it wouldn't sell too good was inclined to melting it, however I do not have the knowlage or set ip to pour it so I was wondering if I could melt it in a steel pot, and if so would it bond to the steel if I let it cool in there?

Thanks everyone, I learned some stuff today. I will be careful with the drum, the whole thing was covered in rust, so I hope that it will be good, but I will check and do my research. 

Yeah lol, thanks.

Yes, I meant hardened, sorry. It is a relatively new one, the 15#, still with origional paint and not used very much, at least until I got it. The 150# was sitting in the back of a barn for the past 20 years or longer.