Harry Marinakis

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Posts posted by Harry Marinakis


  1. So, I took apart my forge, replaced a lot of the cracked lining with kaowool, and painted the inside with ITC-100.

    The gas line has a regulator that I can adjust from 0 to 15 PSI.

    The flame is blowing 6 inches out of both ends of the forge, and is bright yellow.

    I am getting a lot of scale forming on the steel.

    I tried to take photos of the flame outside of the forge, but it won't stay lit. Inside of the forge, you can't really see a flame to photograph, it's just a whirlwind of yellow and blue fire inside.

    Adjusting the cylinder valve and regulator valve has no effect on the color of the flame. What else can I do to get a more reducing flame, beside buying new flame nozzles?


  2. 6 hours ago, Frosty said:

     

    I don't know if you've read much by us old curmudgeons recommending the kids NOT try learning blacksmithing by making knives. . .

    LOL

    Yeah, I read that in several sources. The books also said to go ahead and make a knife anyway to get it out of your system!

    I'm currently making some tongs and Hardie tools, and modifying my hammers, and will get back to making blades when I feel that I am better prepared. 

    Already straightened a coil spring in anticipation....


  3. Thanks!

    Scale got mixed into the blade

    Had to grind the blade too thin as a result

    Blade shape turned out wrong

    Couldn't forge the blade shape, had to grind it, and even then it came out wrong 

    Handle is wrong shape

    Bolster doesn't fit flush

    Bolster has a gap around the tang

    Pommel cap is off center

    etc. 


  4. Newbie here.

    I saw this 15th Century ballock dagger with a black handle that spoke to me. I had to make one! So I bought a gas forge, some hammers and an automobile leaf spring from the junkyard. Here is my first forging attempt, a knife. It was a disaster. C'est la vie, I learned a lot and look forward to trying again after a get more experience.

    Multi-stage edge and reinforced point

    Full tang peened over a bonze pommel cap

    Boxwood handle

     

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  5. Thanks

    I should have been more specific with my question.

    I am making steel knives using spring steel. My forge is new to me and I am still not entirely comfortable with my ability to differentiate between a reducing vs. oxidizing environment. My friend's gas forge produced a lot of scale, I hope to avoid that.

    Appreciate the input.


  6. So, I made an apron from 4-5 oz. oil-tanned leather, that extends all the way down below my knees.

    The back straps form an "X" in the back with adjustable buckles up front for when I wear winter coats while working

    Optional 2-inch belt if I'm not bending over a lot.

    I really like it, and have since made identical aprons for my friends (who apparently also like it).

    (The blade is not mine, but the bubinga, bone and bronze handle is.)

    11071588_942291785814875_2646207576041644743_n.jpg


  7. On ‎11‎/‎30‎/‎2015‎ ‎3‎:‎49‎:‎55‎, Locksmithjoe said:

    I was wondering how I can .... add side holes for longer pieces?

    1. Disassemble the forge

    2. Remove the front door

    3. Remove the refractory material around the front door

    4. Cover the front with more refractory material

    5. Cut holes in the end plates and refractory material

    6. You may need to extend the firebrick floor all the way to the end openings

    7. Reassemble the forge

    8. Cover the front (where the door used to be) with sheet metal

     

    In the photo below, the red sheet metal is where the front door used to be located.

     

    12247163_1069609829749736_5172506062858654439_n_jpg_84b0e1709a03b4039162017a7d749f56.jpg


  8. On ‎11‎/‎29‎/‎2015‎ ‎5‎:‎42‎:‎01‎, Frozenforge said:

    It looks like the openings on the ends are a modification from the original design in the first picture. The burners are designed for a certain amount of back pressure and the change has altered the back pressure. You can get some soft firebrick and reduce size of the openings till it runs properly.

    The new holes on the ends result in about 1/3 less area than the original front door. I would think that the back pressure would be slightly increased with the modification.

    I'll have to take  a look at the flame nozzles.


  9. I took an old farrier's gas forge with a front door, and converted it into a end loader. Open on both ends, so I can put long pieces through.

    Problem is, with both ends open the flame keeps blowing out.

    But if I cover one opening with fire bricks, it burns just fine.

     

    WTF?

     

     

     

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