Nylund knives
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Posts posted by Nylund knives
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A strip of thick leather soaked in oil would be ideal. (veg tanned, smooth face of hide to ram)
Thanks fo the tip!
If I can't find a rubber seal that fits I will try with leather.
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Thanks,
Today I pulled the ram and found a bad rubber seal. I also checked the guides but they seem to be okay as do the pistion ring. The ram had no play back and forth where the guides are, the play are sideways and is supposed to be taken care of with the rubber seal. The rubber seal was very worn in that direction.This is the one way valve:
This is the ram and the pistion ring.
This is the rubber seal from the stuffing box.
Do the rubber seal need to be in some kind of special rubber or can I use one meant for a hydraulic cylinder?Best regardsJakob -
your anvil is too high the long side bolts are to go through the holes in the anvil then the spring then the bolts, the anvil and hammer must be separated with hard wood about one inch
7579.attach.jpegThanks.
The reson the anvil is higher then supposed is that the hammer dies are too short. The height between the hammer ram and the hammer cylinder can be maximum 165 mm and it is now 150mm so it should be okay. When I get the hammer running I will make dies with the correct hight and then I can remove one of the wood blocks that is under the hammer and mount the spring in the holes as it should be. I also do have an inch of hard wood between the hammer body and the anvil.
The problem is something else, maybe I missed something with the back valve.
Best regards
Jakob
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Contact Roger Lund in Sweden via Facebook. He has extensive experience with Beche hammers and has one of the best forging shops in the world. Tell him John Larson USA iron Kiss Hammers gave you his name. A super nice guy.
Thank you!
Roger Lund actually helped me fix another hammer about a year ago, he sure know his hammers especially the beche hammers. I have not got a hold of him yet but I found another swedish blacksmith that has the same hammer and have had the same problem on his so hopefully I will have it running within a few days :rolleyes:
Here is a video of the hammer running. As you can see it's not working at all as it should.
I cleaned and cheked the "one way valve" today but did not find anything wrong with it...:rolleyes: -
Hi all!
I'm new here, I was pointed here from another forum. I'm a young knifemaker from Finland that would need some help getting my airhammer running as it should.
For about a year ago I bought a new power hammer, a beché 65 kg, and yesterday I was able to run it for the first time.There was a big problem with hammer, the ram did not go up and idle at the top of the hammer cylinder as it should.It goes up and and down with a full stroke length hitting the bottom die every time. It does not hit the bottom very hard but it hits it.I did not find any obvious causes to the problem but will take a closer look at it today.I had a similar problem with my other hammer that I was able to fix, the reason was problem with the valve. The beché does not look any thing like that hammer so I have no idea where to start to look.Maybe any of you guys know where I should start to look? It not a very uncommon hammer and should be fairly similar to a Nazel.Here are some pictures of the hammer from when I bough it.
Best regardsJakob
Need help with an air hammer!
in Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
Posted
Do you mean the foundation?
In that case I have poured a concrete foundation that is about 120cm deep. I also have about an inch of wood under the hammer body and 14 inch of wood under the anvil. But when I make new dies I will remove one of the wood blocks and then I will have about 6 inch of wood between the anvil and the concrete foundation.
Jakob