ksb

Cat track pin. (used)
K

The last em add. I had for Jeff Mohr is:
mockingbirdforge@peoplepc.com

KSB

If you can find the blower out of a old clothes dryer you can rig up a pulley system for it.
KSB

Divermike - what a coincidence - I just finished one a couple of days ago. Used 1/4 x 3/4 flat. From a Bill Epps demo on anvilefire. About the same except the hook on his is sharpened to a point so it can be hung over/into something ( chair back, etc ) or into top top of a beam. He said the candle would hang out at an angle ( didn't say why ). Was somewhat of a challenge at my skill level ( or lack of skill level ) but I enjoyed it. Got to do another.
KSB

One way to sorta tell - examp - several layers - heat up and watch colors fade. Looking at from the 'side' - layers visible - if a good weld colors will fade evenly across/down bar ( if that makes sense ) - bad weld will be brighter on one side of bad weld than the other or show up as a dark area.
ksb

Also FABA member ( NW region). Probably best $25/year I ever spent. Great people and I have learned soooo much at meets. Site add is : Florida Artist Blacksmith Association
Ken

True story ( really ). Two friends and I went up to JCC School a few years back for a class with D. Fogg. Got there just before dark and were standing outside reg building. Now .. I may be a little 'ragged' but my buddys are 'normal' looking, the tallest of us at about 5-7, 5-8. A lady drives up, parks and starts to go inside. Then she stops, turns around, takes a long look at us and says - "yall must be blacksmiths", then went on inside.
ksb

Here's my gifts for the grand kids this year. Top one is for my granddaughter -1050 & ebony, next is for her brother - 5160 & linen micarta, next two are for other two grand sons - both 1095 and canvas micarta. ( sized pics down a bit )
KSB

I'll go along with what Truman said about used welders. I've got an old Forney ( 220v, 230amp ) we bought - prob in the mid 60's. It has been used and quite misused for many years. Has never failed me in any way - well I did replace the ground clamp once.
KSB

Was at a meet a couple of weeks ago. An 'old timer' that buys and sells told me used anvils are going for $3 a lb. ( wouldn't sell me 10 lb. of one though )

KSB

I got a Clay Spencer t- hammer made in a workshop - skate wheels - works great.
Ken

I use a full apron when grinding (and sometime when forging/welding) - keeps grit and other crud out of my pants and shirt pockets. And keeps clothes a little cleaner too.
KSB

Been outa town - got back Sun. Hammer was in mailbox.
Just wana say...... thanks Mr. Hofi. And thanks Mr. Conner for handling everything

Ken

McRaven's book - The Blacksmith's Craft has pics and dimensions/materials for a cant hook.
KSB

I was in the battery business for 29 years ( wholesale, repair, rebuilding, etc ). The first two or three years I didn't wear gloves ( and my hands showed it). So the rest of the time I wore every kind I thought would help - from dish washing to heavy lined rubber gloves and everything between. Sooo .. Im used to and comfortable working with gloves . I wear them almost all of the time in the shop. Another reason I seem to have developed a case of dermatitis. As I write this I have a crack on my left thumb that is sore and a large one on my right that really hurts. So gloves help protect my hands a little bit. I would really like to be able to work without them, but....
yeah - I wear gloves
KSB

Swearing is the laxtive that purges the soul.
KSB

On my rr anvil I took 2 pieces of angle iron and welded them together so as to make a
1" id sq. Then cut a slightly larger hole than the outside of the AI ( my gas cutting ain't so hot ). Dropped the 'hardy hole' in and welded in all around 'til it was all solid ( not the hole ) then dressed it down with a angle grinder. Hole is in center of anvil about 3-4" from one end. Looks 'factory made'. However because of thin area welded it won't take a lot of pounding ( like a hardy tool with a small base ). So I made a large base for the tools. Now I got a 'real' anvil so I don't use the rr anvil much anymore
Ken

I also have a Champion forge. As you can see the pan is cracked. And also the top of the grate is abt. 1" high. It has to clay before using in the bottem of pan. Any idea how high to clay - to top of grate ? Should it be flat across or 'dished' ? Thanks.
Ken

I have a 100 lb. tank outside. Use 1/2" water pipe to run from the tank to inside. Just inside wall is a cut-off valve, then high pressure gauge. Have a 1/2 lb. reg. off that then another cut-off valve, then a reg. with gauge going to other forges. Use reducers and copper line to the forges.
Ken

I got bearings for one at a bicycle shop - standard stock item ( mine were 1/4" ).
Ken

edit - oops - I mean 1/8"

try this link

http://www.calsmith.org/techniques/forges/Side%20Blast%20forge.pdf

Ken

If 'ya flatten the head of the spike they'll stand up by their self ( what I do )
Ken

I used bubble alumina in the bottom of my forge - from Darrin Ellis. He said it was the best he had seen for resisting flux ( haven't taken it apart to see what shape it is in ).
Ken

I head one end of the rivit hot - put into tongs - heat just other end sticking up with torch then form that head - works for me.
K

I was in the battery business for several years - poured many a post and strap -always used gas. Although we had an electric 'post burner' I never used. It had a ground strap and a 'burner' end that was somewhat pointed. These were attached to a transformer ( low v, high a ? ) that pulged into 110v. It worked like a 'resistance' soldering iron (like came with my 40 yr. old Forney welder) . The current through the lead heated it up to the melting point. Never did get any good with it but it did work.
Ken