cojoromo
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Posts posted by cojoromo
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I did find a thermocoupler at Lowes. 8.00 and it fit. But that was not the problem. Nothing came on when I turned the switch on. So I jumped the switch, and the motor hummed and the solenoids clicked, but motor did not turn. I opened the vent of the vane chamber and realized the motor was not free. The motor has a grease tube. I put some wd40 in it, and I also lubed it from the front shaft. It began to loosen up slowly. Once it appeared loose enough, I applied power to it. The blower came on, and after a minute it came up to full speed. I lit the pilot, and the chamber fired up. It coughed and backfired when I would close the door. It was a little scary, as I was worried it would backfire and burn me. It even popped and made the door open. So I closed the door partially. and it didn't backfire as much. After about five minutes, The internal chamber heated up cherry red, and it quit backfiring. Then I closed the door completely, and it didn't cough or backfire at all. After running about 15 minutes, and it was smooth operating. I suspect the unit may not have been run in 15 or 20 years, so maybe that was part of the backfiring problem. The only problem I have to fix, is the switch. It looks like a 1960's switch, so I don't think I'll find one like it. I paid 11.00 for it at the school board auction. I think I made a good deal.
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I recently purchased an old Johnson gas forge. It is a 90,000 btu shaped like a mailbox model number 120k. I am not familiar with its operation.
The question I have, is what controls the blower motor. I light the pilot light, and hold the button, but it will not stay on, it goes out when I let the button go. When I flick the blower switch, nothing happens. I suspect that the motor will not blow until another gas valve switch allows it to. I think the thermocouple may not be working. Is this a unit universal? Is it something I can get from Lowes? Thanks in advance. Corey
Firebrick...
in Insulation and Refractories
Posted
Well, I myself have to experiment on occasion. Most of the time, I find that tradition is correct. About 5 percent of the time, I make a new discovery. Some times learning what doesn't work can also be valuable. I look at the label on your bucket, and it says "cement" and its recommended use, probably indicates a thin layer. It's kind of like trying to make a mold of something and using Mortar. Mortar is for gluing bricks together. Used alone in a mold or form, and you end up with something that is very weak. Mortar used alone will crumble and has very little strength.