rjs
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Posts posted by rjs
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"What makes this 280-watt tool so surprisingly strong is that it runs from 220V, instead of the much weaker 110V circuits:"
Electrical power is measured in watts:
volts times amps equals watts
double the voltage at half the amps equals the same watts.
Much of Europe runs on 220-240 volt wall power.
Doubtless that unit was manufactured for that market.
People who live where wall power is 120 volts would be well advised to stick to 120 volt angle grinders most of which are rated at 400-700 watts.
Bob
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3 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:
For years I was lucky enough to have a large family run hardware store a few miles away. Now it is just another store chain; their pipe and fittings are just as bad as everywhere else. If their products where then, the way it is now, my book would have featured nothing but tube burners. Not that they won't work as well on today's fittings, because of their aiming screws, but a don't like using second rate stuff.
Mclendons?
They were great back in the day.
Bob
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14 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:
Yes, the porter jokes started and died in grade school. Never gave a darn about them; used to really frustrate the halfwits. I new a girl named Penny Nickels; now there was a gal who had a right to bitch; no way her parents didn't know what they were doing. First time I heard A Boy Named Sue on the radio, I thought about her all over again.
So my mother used to teach school in the mid west back during the depression and had the following students; Heck, Gee, Gosh, Golly, and a girl named Ima Cow
What were those parents thinking?
Bob
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Yeah, I wish I had had that chart back in the middle 1990s, I still remember destroying a brand new 1/4-28 tap trying to tap a piece of hot rolled steel with a pilot hole diameter of .206 inches. & no I do not remember where I got that .206 from perhaps it was printed on the tap? The vendor honored the guarantee but he was grumpy about it.
Regards,
Bob
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1 hour ago, Mberghorn said:
I got mine from ebay. Much cheaper http://www.ebay.com/itm/400992184543?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
the listing you quoted is for a bottoming tap. Those things are hard to start without going in first with a tap with a tapered lead in like this one .
Bob (who, in the past, has been shipped the wrong tap even when he ordered the correct one)
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concerning 1/4 x 27 tpi taps:
https://www.amazon.com/HSS-Right-Hand-Thread-Tap/dp/B008AT64P8
about $18.50 with the shipping and it says it is high speed steel
Bob
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3 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:
BTW did you search on gasoline garage fires ?
I searched for gasoline explosions and got one hit which I described in my previous post. A search for gasoline fires turned up no hits although from personal knowledge I know of two both happened a long time ago and both involved the destruction of a vehicle. Ono of those was probably arson, the other may have been caused by an accident. (car was in the middle of the road on fire.) I have driven my share of flaky old beaters over the years and never had an incident. A search for garage fires got some hits, remarkably few considering the abundance of gasoline powered vehicles around.
As long as I am beating the safety drum I have another point to make:
refillable Propane tanks should always be transported and stored in the upright position. If one is on its side and the over pressure valve vents it will vent liquid propane and you will get a much bigger surprise.
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53 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:
Gasoline is a very dangerous substance and cars are rather notorious for leaking it.
No argument about that but I does give a bit of warning, gradually increasing odor etc.
When the over pressure valve on a propane tank pops you get exactly zero warning. You go from no problem to a possible face full of fire faster than you can say "holy!@#$".
I did a web search on Kitsap and propane explosion and found not only the one I referred to earlier but two others as well. A similar search only for gasoline explosion only turned up one and it involved drunken sailors and a camp fire so no surprise there. Of course as the saying goes "YMMV"
Bob
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17 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:
RJS do you also never close a garage door when their is a car inside it?
No I have never done that. (never had enough room in the garage.) But I do not see what that has to do with anything.
6 minutes ago, Frosty said:Bob: You DID go back to the outfit who overfilled the tank and had it out with them. Yes? The 10% valve on the tank is there specifically to prevent a tank from being filled more than 90% and provide sufficient room for expansion up to something like 130f. (don't quote me on the temp)
Sad to say I did not. I was opening up a new piece of property then as well as working full time and I had bigger fish to fry. What I did do was watch like a hawk whenever my tanks were being filled after that and (substantially later in life) made the decision not to store (in use or not) propane tanks in enclosed spaces.
Not sure what happened but Kitsap county had a couple of people killed this year from a propane explosion. The house was destroyed and the noise was heard by people a long way away.
Bob
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R.E. propane tanks inside:
Back in the late 70's a propane dealer over filled the tanks for my travel trailer. The next day (warm and sunny) I was outside and heard a loud
"pop"from the direction of the trailer front. I looked and saw a brief cloud of vapour at the tanks. I kept my eye on it and it happened several more times before it stabilized. No harm done but I sure would not have cared to have that happen inside my shop with a lit forge sitting there.Those tanks, in use or not, belong in a well vented outdoor space.Bob
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On 6/19/2016 at 2:50 PM, Mikey98118 said:
"Dump the idea of using your weed burner."
This was the advice I gave recently to a guy who was looking to build a five gallon size forge, but there are two general size of weed burner: the usual monster size fuel guzzler, and the little area size burners, which run off of 16 oz. bottles. The little burner is everything the monster isn't: hot burning and thrifty to run. And such a burner can be successfully run in a small gas forge.
Surprisingly, the flames on these area burners fully burn in their primary flames, and they have a long turn down range, making them excellent candidates to run everything from a two-brick forge to a two-gallon knife makers forge. Unfortunately they are rather long, but we can't have everything.
Mikey, I found a listing for something like what you are talking about at northern tool is this it?
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200481561_200481561
lousy photograph and not much info.
Bob
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On 6/5/2016 at 9:53 AM, Firemn260 said:
sodium silicate but not sure we're to get it locally
One place to get it is at the auto parts store, Look at the labels on the various snake oil radiator stop leak products, read the fine print and you will find it.
Bob
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8 hours ago, Frosty said:
Engineering chart and converter says 4532f. I know it's not a significant difference but it's the scientific temp F for a stoichometric flame. I probably would've taken your conversion for granted had you not cited wiki.
The most I use wiki for is suggestions for search terms and I go to accredited sites for the real poop.
Frosty The Lucky.
Thanks you inspired me to do some more reading.
Again from the dreaded wiki (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adiabatic_flame_temperature ) I fond the following:
"In the study of combustion, there are two types of adiabatic flame temperature depending on how the process is completed, constant volume and constant pressure, describing the temperature the combustion products theoretically reach if no energy is lost to the outside environment."
So either the they contradict themselves or the value I quoted earlier was not a constant pressure value. In any case lets go with 4532 F for this discussion. the point I was trying to make was the theoretical value for acetylene Is over 900 f higher than the value for propane.
BTW any time I see a completely round number like 2500 C given I am suspicious that it may have been rounded off.
But In the end the stuff is just too expensive to use for general blacksmithing (at least where I live) and I am sure it would quickly destroy any refractory we pointed it at.
So if we were to build the torch that Mikey spoke of (high velocity air acetylene) it is safe to assume the the resultant temperature would be lower than 4532 F
bob
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2 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:
What the air-acetylene flame temperatures might reach from a high speed burner is something I'm not crazy enough to ever attempt to find out!!!
wiki gives 4593 F for acetylene in air
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34 minutes ago, Mikey98118 said:
Thanks to rjs, I went back to McMaster Carr, and this time stumbled on the proper name for this pipe fitting; it's called a "Why" fitting, and is available in every size you'd need to build whatever burner size you want-- even down to a 3/8" burner: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-pipe-fittings/=12kwyxw
rjs has made my day!!! This means that I will be able two add two different easy to build micro burners on the list
LOL, Thanks Mikey, and those weren’t even the ones I was talking about. These are the ones I spotted:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-pipe-fittings/=12kxr9c
Bob
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Mikey said:
"Probably the next most popular design is the Zoeller Modified Side-arm burner; its virtue is also its vice; the special "T" fitting that makes it run so well also happens to be a top quality American made part--so, no nasty surprises with fit-up or performance with it; unfortunately, you can only buy it from one source I know of: Zoeller Forge; single source parts always make me nervous; still, if it was easy everybody would be making forges... "
Mcmaster carr carries a range of reducing t fittings in schedule 40 a 1-1/4 reducing to 3/4 is priced at $13.17. I have not seen these and do not vouch for the quality or suitability of these fittings however mmc has a good reputation.
Bob
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I will follow this with interest and probably build one also
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Ok no problem with that adaptor. Glad you got the torch working.
Bob
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How about a picture or a part number or something for your "appliance adaptor"
Bob
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Looks good to me.
Others take note:
This guy did his homework, provided good documentation of his build, interacted with and tried suggestions provided in the forum and arrived at a good result. I felt like I also learned things in this thread.
Good Job everyone, that seemed like how this place should work.
Bob (who realizes he is a bit new here to be critiquing.)
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1 hour ago, timgunn1962 said:
If you have any welding rod or similar straight wire, you can cut it with centre-cut wire cutters so that it has a vaguely chisel-like end, chuck it in a drill and drill through the IFB with it. You then snip it off flush at both ends and leave it in as pins.
When I first tried it, I ground the last 1/4" or so down to make a D-bit and it worked great. Later I got lazy and just used the wire cutters, finding the result was the same.
It only works on IFB, where there are enough voids to take the dust formed without jamming up.
Looks like good info, I will try this the next time I do anything with IFB
bob
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On 2/29/2016 at 1:15 AM, Frosty said:
It could be a little bigger, maybe 25% but it looks pretty good as it is. It's running slightly rich which I like. Do you have more bricks? you could cut some thin slices from one say 1/2" and use it to space your current bricks and increase the volume without cutting more out of the ones you have now.
Frosty The Lucky.
sounds like a good idea to me.
bob
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Putting your burner in the 2 brick forge probably has increased the back pressure resulting in less air but with the same amount of propane . in short causing it to run rich. If you reduce the propane pressure you will get even less air and probably still be rich. Changing down one size on the mig tip would be interesting. Top of my head calculation says you need at least 7 times the exhaust area as you have burner area and even then that small forge will probably cause the burner to need retuning.
bob ducks and runs for cover.
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On 2/9/2016 at 5:40 PM, Forging Carver said:2 hours ago, Forging Carver said:2 hours ago, Forging Carver said:
Alright thank you. Zoeller is probobly my best bet then. Thank you for the help.
I just read a rather confusing series of posts, looked at the web pages listed and noted the following:
The zoller kit costs $77 plus shipping and includes a ball valve. It is described as a 3-30 psi regulator and comes with an 8 foot hose.
The high temp tool kit comes with a 0-30 psi regulator, no ball valve and no pressure guage, comes with a 5 foot hose, and costs $ 49.50 also available with a 10 ft hose and a pressure gauge for 63.95 (shipping not specified.)
disclaimer
I have not used either of these products and do not vouch for the accuracy of their ads.
bob
Burners 101
in Gas Forges
Posted
Not necessarily, in a motor that can be reconfigured to run on 230 volts the field windings that were connected in parallel are reconfigured in series so a 115 volt motor that drew 15 amps and was splitting it between the two parallel winding inside (7.5 amps each) when reconfigured for 230 volts now drives the same 7.5 amps through both windings which are now in series.
W = V * A
W = V * V / R
W = I * I * R
In English:
Watts equals current times voltage
Watts equals Voltage squared divided by resistance
Watts equals current squared times resistance
Heating would be caused by the inefficiency of the motor (resistance in the motor windings, eddy currents in the laminations etc.)
As long as it doesn't reach overheating temperatures minor inefficiencies in a hand tool are of no importance since they are almost always turned off, however overheating can let the magic smoke leak out.
When a motor of a given horsepower is rewound or reconfigured to run on 230 vs 115 the current will be halved but the reduced current will be going through twice as much length of wire.
A perfect motor would have no resistive component to its impedance, no friction in its bearings, and would not heat up at all (good luck finding one of those.)
Bob