sr peters

Thanks Jymm. Think I have it figured out but will probably ask more questions once I get started.

Take a look at this thread of first gas forge. I prefer round. send me an email and I will forward more photos and information:
http://www.iforgeiro...ge/page__st__20

What type of forge body do you use? Round square? Also how is it mounted to the forge? Guess it boils down to do you have pictures and details of the forge used for this burner? Sounds very promising.

I guess you did not see my version in the "Hammer's Blow." It is so simple combustion engineers can't believe it, till they try it. Now they like it. If you want complicated, don't look here.

Starting with the manifold, it is made from 1 1/2 inch black pipe parts. The burner tips are 10 inch nipples cut in 1/2. I heat them up and flatten to a 1/8 inch sheet to act as a gauge. I no longer us elbows and street ells as it requires more adjusting or tuning of the burners tips. By only using T's, there is less need to adjust the burner tips (open one that is not burning as well as the other by using a long chisel while it is running.) The T's do not necessarily have to be welded together as I do, you can use short nipples to connect everything. I recommend one of this size burner tips for every 6 inches in length of shell. I used to recommend 1/8 inch hole for the gas, but the newer method of connecting a 1/4 nipple to a ball valve into the 1 1/2" to 1/1/2 inch T works fine.Or the 1/4" reducer can be plugged with 1/2' threaded rod, cut flush. Then drill a 5/32" hole in the center of the plug and counter sink (so the counter sink bevel is the outlet of the gas into the 1 1/2" pipe.) VERY IMPORTANT: This system works on household gas pressure, here in the United States, that is 11 inches of water column, about 1/2 pound of pressure. A common regulator that is already set for this pressure is used on outdoor gas barbecue grills. Do not try this system on high pressure gas with this large of an orifice. I normally run 3/8 to 1/2 inch rubber propane hose from the regulator to the ball valve. NEXT IMPORTANT PART: The blower must be a high speed blower that can produce not only enough CFM, but also enough pressure. I do not know what the minimums are, I use blowers readily available from Kayne & Son/Blacksmiths Depot: http://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/Templates/cart_templates/cart_browse.php?theLocation=/Resources/Products/Forges_and_Parts/blowers. The small blower they sell works great, it is listed at 112 CFM at 36 ounces of pressure. I run my smaller 2 burner and large 3 burner systems with the same blower (not at the same time of course.)

Thanks,
I had forgot about that one. I had seen it a few years ago when I was thinking about building a gas forge then. It appears easier to construct than the one I was looking at.

I used this design and scaled it down to fit my needs. Working well for me.

I am looking to build a gas forge and I want to use a forced air burner. Anyone have a good design? I have a copy of the BAM design they used on their forge projects a few years back. Just looking to see if there is any newer or improved versions.

Thanks

Thanks,
This is good info. and very valuable, but I can't make an opening in the building for a stack. I can run a duct to a window and out to a stack (may even look at making a cyclone to knock the ash down). I plan on opening the window and putting an insert in the window to pass the duct through. (I am watching space to combustible material.) This would make the need to be forced air. No A/C or heat so I know what I have for outside temp will be pretty much be the same due to fresh air draw. I have two other windows, a man door and an overhead door to crack open to allow air in. I am looking to see if someone knows the magic cfm to draw out the exhaust and not make the need to put a warning about small children and animals getting to close to the hood. :D

I have the situation that I burn charcoal and I either work outside or will have to make a hood with forced draft. With it being -2 and snow on the ground, working outside is out. I have searched and it appears this has not been discussed, so my question is: what volume of air should I set as a starting point to size my fan? Really would like to run with a hood with natural draft but just not in a position to do that.

Thats why I wonder if the smaller operations are going to be the survivors?

If you looked at my work resume you would see I have done about everything to stay diversified except for washing dishes LOL. Nelson you are right, I always try to keep my eyes and ears open for unique opportunities that others seem to over look. That is one reason I am thinking of doing a little utilitarian smithing. Doing some swap meets and bartering to keep things going. Wifes chickens, goats and ducks seem to being doing better than me. But again we are taking advantage of a hot market at this period of time.

This is for the smiths that do smithing for income (full time or part time) Curious to know, but I was wondering how bad the economic down turn has affected the workloads.:confused: Thinking of putting my hobby to work for awhile while I am not working.

I make my own also. I grab pallets since they tend to have hard woods which make a denser charcoal. They usually are easy to find after some phone calls or just stopping were you see them piled up. Going to start going behind the firewood cutters that leave alot of 2"-3" diameter limbs laying. Pine works but it tends to have a higher fluff factor.

Hi Bob,
Here in Iowa also. I am just a hobbyist (yes one of those people). Looking to get into one of the groups.

Thanks guys, Guess it's my new anvil since my other was made in 1903. It is a great anvil.

Hate to ask but does anyone have their resource books ready? I purchased a 152lb Trenton anvil with the serial # A79460. Anyone tell me when it was made?

Thanks for info.

:confused:Can anyone help me put an age my anvil? I have a Hay-Budden with serial number 85572. I know a little history of Hay-Buddens and think it has to been manufactured around 1910 maybe earlier. Sweet 85lb anvil. A few little battle scars, face is in fairly flat, nice ring and bounce. For $75 I am not complaining. Got to love farm auctions especially ones that do not list all the items on the bill and you find a treasure. :)