Chris Bell

You could have dropped double that and folks would think you did OK *especially* in CA!

 

Nice little travel anvil---now to work on finding it's bug brother!

 

I have a 93# A&H for my travel anvil and a 515# Fisher for the main shop anvil

That was my thought Thomas, its very slim pickings here in CA. I do have a larger 350lb anvil thats my work horse but the horns a bit blunt and a real nice railroad track anvil for small stuff so this is a great middle ground.

ChrisBell, I was mistaken.
That anvil is absolutely garbage, some may even claim unsafe to use.
For your safety, and because I care, I'll take that anvil off your hands.
;)

Suurrreeee!!!! Black Frog i will mail it out tomorrow  :D

This anvil was made by the Columbus Anvil & Forging Company in Columbus, Ohio.  It appears to be marked "Imperial" and "Warranteed" on the side opposite the A&H logo.  There were several hardware companies who had specially-marked A&H anvils made for them.  My 90 lb Belknap Hardware A&H anvil that falls into this category.  Richard Postman argues that Arm & Hammer anvils were the finest wrough-iron anvils made in America, and I have to agree with him.

 

You got an amazing deal on an incredible anvil.  Use it, enjoy it, take care of it so that it can be passed on to the next generation!

Thanks you for the extra info Copilot, glad to hear they are thought so highly of by some.

You stole it for $100.
If I'm reading the serial number correct at 12203, that puts it before 1912 according to Postman's AIA.

Thank you Black Frog you have been a major help and made me feel better about dropping $100 on it.

You're thinking of the Vulcan brand, which has a similar logo, but is a cast anvil.
Real A&H's are quality anvils. In fact maybe you should sell it to me.....

Ummmm.... I think I will hang on to it for a bit hahaha well now that i know it a good anvil I will share the price and see if in your opinion i got a good deal or not. $100 I thought it was a great deal but...

That's an Arm & Hammer anvil, real nice size too.
A&H's can be of fantastic quality.

 Arm & Hammer... I heard A&H were not the best brand to have, now I kinda have buyers remorse.

Picked up this anvil today on the scale it was 79lbs, wasnt sure of the make. Any help of comments on the quality of this anvil would be much appreciated. 

i do understand what your saying sir i was just defensive in the fact i was just defensive on my work the bottom of the "V" is actually rounded to reduce stress fractures at that point in a true sense of a knife this is it cuts it stabs it whittles. it does not and will not hammer pry and baton. i do appreciate your knowledge and expertise. the people i have looking to purchase it now are hard core Dungeons and Dragons players and total book worms with absolutely NO intent of ever using it and they were even more excited to hear it had a high carbon blade it feed into their zeal for a "real dwarven dagger" lol and if the invite is an honest friendly invite i would accept to get with another smith and test a gamut of tang designs and importance's of no sharp notches from blade to tang. if it was bring the knife and lets try and break it weellll there's another answer for that... lol

by usable i mean its not meant to be taken out and used with a baton to build your bushcraft shelter. the blade is very sturdy with great flex and spring. i did not razor sharpen it for the fact that it might be purchased as a display or "wall hanger" and not as a daily use knife. even the thinnest part under the large "V" is thicker spine to blade than most knives with the same blade length. As for a lawyer, the only way this knife will break is with true misuse, not because of the design. So if i misuse a drill bit and snap it and it cuts me i can call a lawyer and go after craftsman or whoever made the bit? (there's the problem with the world) 

Thank you for the kind words Matt Smith it spells out "Thorn" the name of the knife.

sorry for the delay ill get a pic up for you tomorrow sir

I really just wanted to give it that Tolkien feel with the blade design. do you mean the copper cap on the handle or back/spine of the blade?

With The Hobbit movie out now i thought it would be a good time to do a bit of "fantasy" work (not hokey) its a 1095 blade and copper furniture with poplar handle and sheath. The notches out of the blade do remove strength but its not meant to be a "user" more of a semi functional display piece.  

Its funny i had never once thought of trying a different size bearing, ill have to see what i can find at work tomorrow and give it a shot. I'm familiar with Hern Iron works i personally own 2 of their cannons and between friends and i we have 6 of the xxxx things. the gentleman i bought it from implied it was the real deal and bought as a prop and not made as a prop but who knows (he was actually in one of the storage wars episodes where Berry bought some old silver western gear and took it to him to look at). I'm just curious about the make for my own knowledge its not gonna change what it is or the fact i use it in any way, weather its good or fair its better than no anvil at all. Thank you guys for all the help a really appreciate it.

Thanks for the reply rustyanchor (Mark). Yes it does have seam under the horn but i dont see one for a plate. It did ring better with a little more rebound when i first looked at it (it was sitting on gravel) on the face i see no marks for a pritchel hole but almost looks like there are some grinding marks on the underside where it could have been located. Aside from the horn being blunt its a nice anvil fun to work on with nice edges, it does have some pitting on the face and horn but not horrible much better than my first anvil that i made the mistake of buying off of ebay and got what turned out to be a 100lb A.S.O.

I purchased this anvil a few years ago for just under $300 from a western prop supplier who said it was "old" (only movie he remembered in 100% being in was Seabiscut), I'm not 100% sure on the weight I'm guessing around 250lbs. sitting on the ash stump is has a 35-40% rebound with a 3/4" ball bearing dropped from 10", it has a sleight ring to it. the face will mar a little with a missed hammer blow there are NO marking at all but a spot on the side where there are signs of a grinder being used, there is also no pritcher hole, the horn is a bit flat on the top and has no real point to it.