cwinter

Cold rolled stops being cold rolled as soon as you heat it to working temp---why pay extra to throw it away?

Auto Coil spring is cheap if not free (stop by my place and I'll give you 20 or 30 pounds worth) and will last longer in abrasive use---even just normalized and much longer if properly heat treated. (the trick is to not buy them as repair parts but buy them as scrap metal...we don't care what they came off of or when!)

As for grinding I'd use a proper belt grinder designed to work steel.

Sorry... I described the metal incorrectly.
It is ground flat stock o1 tool grade steel.

• Exterior Finish           Oil-Hardened and Precision Ground
• Hardness                   Rockwell C: 63-65
• Temper                      Annealed
• wide hardening range of 1700 degree F to 1775 degree F, with 1750 degree F recommended

It is from the Starret tool company.

Hey everyone thanks for the replies. These are tuckpointing jointers and they are used to repoint mortar into brick walls. My initial idea was to get cold rolled steel rod to size and grind the convex face of the tool and then for the part that fits in the handle, heat and strike down to the correct size. I don't know how dificult it would be to grind 1/8-14" off the face of the rod. What kind of grinder would you guys use? A bench grinder with stone wheel or banch sander? Any other ideas? Thanks

edit: The reason I wanted to get the cold rolled steel to size is some of the jointers have a flat face instead of a convex so it would make most sense to order lengths of steel rod to size and on some, grind the convex face and the others leave flat.

New to blacksmithing. Was curious to see others thoughts on how they would make these: