RichHallstrom

Sounds like light oil is easier to crank. I might go with that since winter is here. As long as it has something to lubricate the gears it should be OK. Thanks.

I just bought a buffalo forge hand cranked blower. The guy who sold it said he took it apart and cleaned it and that the crank case needed oil. I have been told to use anything from 10w oil with a little kerosene to 90w gear oil. What is the proper oil to use? I'm leaning towards the gear oil, but I could be wrong....it has happened before. Thanks..

Has anyone ever used file chalk? Does it help improve the finish while you are filing?

SPEED - QUALITY - PRICE
Pick any two.

My friend had this sign hanging in his print shop.

I have used both...was wondering what people think about the pros and cons of each...

I prefer wearing my contacts in the shop because i can wear safety glasses over them. My regular glasses are smaller and have no side shields so i don't like to use them as safety glasses because they don't offer as much protection. They do have safety glasses that fit over regular glasses but i don't care for those. They are too big, never seem to fit right, and you then have four lenses to fog up.

Solvarr,

Thanks for the link.

That was indeed Drogo that I spoke to. I enjoyed talking to him, nice guy and willing to share his knowledge. I picked up a couple of tips that will help me out.

Is that a SAW box you are using? Drogo said it is a little bigger than a .50 cal. How much difference would it make. I have a .50 cal can. I suppose I can weld up a box with the same dimensions or find something with the same cubic inch capacity. I need a source for the regulator and hose. Where did you get yours?

I am in the middle of building a new coal/charcoal forge right now so I am going to finish that first and do more research on gassers. Thanks for the info.

I need to know everything about gas forges!! I am using coal right now and would like to make a simple propane forge for small stuff like knives, s-hooks, etc. The main thing is the burner design which is pretty simple on that forge. They may be on others as well. It just looked the right size for what I am looking for. If you can guide me to any websites with detailed plans for a simple forge about that size I would appreciate it. I also need a regulator and hose for the tank. I'm not sure where to get that stuff.

I was at an event yesterday and saw a guy using a 50 cal. ammo can gas forge. He gave me a website to look at plans but it does not seem to be working. A web search did not help either. Does anyone know where i can find plans? Thanks

I mainly do small stuff. I don't plan on getting into gates and fencing. I made a small bench 30" off the floor and 20" off the wall. That gives me 24" from the jaws to the back wall. If I find that is not enough room in the future, I guess I can modify it. Thanks for all the advice.

My shop is an old horse stall. It is 8' x 14'. With the way the doors are laid out I don't have many options. I need a workbench and that leaves no room for a vise in the middle so I plan on mounting it to the bench.

I am building a bench in my smithy to mount my newly aquired post vise (freebie from my neighbor). How much room do you recomend to leave from the back of the vise to the wall? Would 24" be enough? Thanks..

-Rich

Nice work. It has good flowing lines...

I have about 50 used files from where I used to work. I will keep useing them as it is free steel to practice on. I have not had any problems with them yet, even making fire steels and water quenching has not resulted in any cracks or failures.

I do most of my work with a 2.2# swedish cross pein. I also use a 1.75# cross pein for lighter work and I have a 1.5# ball pein that gets some use. I have others, but they rarely get used.

This is my portable junk yard forge. The firepot is a brake rotor, the rim is a spacer from a truck, the deck is an old saw blade, and the legs are from a bed frame. The blower is a cheap bathroom exaust fan with a 3" air gate from a woodshop dust collecting system. It works quite well and gets plenty hot enough. I can't open the air gate more than 1/4 way or steel starts burning.

This is my first knife. It is from and old file, handle is black walnut. I didn't polish it well but it holds a good edge.

I would get a MIG welder and more coal

I wonder if I could use the Iron/steel dust below my sander/grinder and mix it with my Borax...seem like I read somewhere in one of the old books I have that that is what they used to do...any one try this?

I have heard this is not good due to the stone grit from the grinding wheel or the sandpaper. Iron filings from using a file are good for that because it is just steel.

Yes those of you that discuss raising the piece in the fire will reduce oxidation are exactly on target.

The next question is how high in the fire is high enough? I am about 3 inches up, which I thought was high enough. I also cannot forge weld. maybe too much airflow?

Leaving the steel higher in the fire reduces oxydation? Does the quality of the coal affect it as well? I have noticed that lower temps seem to reduce scale, but that leaves less hammer time per heat and can cause stress cracks on smaller parts.

i am using coal.

anyone have any tips for minimizing forge scale and pock marks on your work?

I have been using used peanut oil from a resturant with good results.