KevinYarbrough

I use a forklift propane tank. The height of the tank is great for quenching longer pieces.
** IMPORTANT ** Be careful when preparing the tank - ensure there is no pressure, before starting to modify it.

Mike and Rich - both of you have made good points that I will use. Thank you.

A friend and I are making andirons (fronts) from 1 3/4" rod. The top of this element is a cube. From there is a radius transition into a narrow 'collar' that is more or less the nominal diameter of the original stock from that is a transition into a 1" square section.

The problem lies in the collar / square transition it is canted / leaning. Hopefully, the attached drawing makes this clear. My question is how to straighten the element from the 'collar' upward without deforming the collar ?

We have tried blows to the collar (at yellow heat) on the 'short side using a wooden block - does not deform the collar, but results in little if any adjustment.

Adjustments with large tongs opening over the cube and jaws on the collar have not been effective - again at a high heat. Given the thickness of the stock, I suppose this is no surprise.

Your suggestions are appreciated.

Burritt Heavy Andiron 2.pdf

Embedded Software Developer - Space Shuttle Main Engine

All Americans should be proud of OUR space program:
The position of world leadership and cooperation that it affords us.
The development of technologies that benefit us all.
The inspiration for our youth to attain a quality education.
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I am proud to be just a tiny part of this wonderful endeavor.

Respectfully,

Kevin Yarbrough

John,

Thanks for calling this out.
Best of the Bits Vols 1 - 5 is a great resource to have in one's library.

This link will take you to the AFC site where information for ordering can be obtained:

Alabama Forge Council - Merchandise

I have some "not hollow" shanks from jack hammer bits, I think they are listed on the junk yard steel chart as s5. Are the solid ones good for hammers and the like? thanks

I liberated a rusty jackhammer bit (about 24") from my father's scrap pile with the idea of making hammers and heavy punches. I soaked this bit in vinegar and wiped away the rust to discover it is hollow.

I presume it was a water-cooled bit - not much good as stock for hammers & punches - right? Hammering-out the hollow effectively creates an internal 'shut' - right?

My imagination is in neutral on this one .... need your thoughts.

Just bought this anvil. I have not weighed it, but guess it is at 100#.
Note the '100' on the foot. Also, there is a obscured (serial?) number on the back - possibly '99H'

This anvil scores between 80-90% on 'rebound test'.
Note the mounting lobes - someone suggested it might be a Fisher, but I do not see the Fisher name on it. It has a 1/2 pritchel and 3/4 hardy.

Finally: New Anvil 4 is a poor picture, but you should be able to make out a 'perfect circle' dimple just beyond the pritchel hole (a divider leg points to it).
This dimple is very similar to one found on my Hay Budden anvil. Is this coincidence or is there a purpose for this?

Your input is appreciated.

The item resting on the wagon - any idea what it is?

At first I thought it is a lathe - no tool rest and no jawed-chuck, nor the means to attach one.

Knob in front provides lateral adjustment to mechanism in back - note grinding wheel on one end and drive pulley in back.

Your help identifying this is appreciated.