speura

David Wittrock in the California Blacksmiths Assoc. built a civil war travelling forge.

I named mine Deer Hill Forge, it's what my name translates to in english. Peura=deer m

Yep my original JYF drum sits in a hole and I've used tabs to fit in the rotor gap to hold it down (I store it on it's side). And I originally welded the pipe to the drum, the first time I did a small bead and I guess I didn't get much penetration. It eventually cracked and fell off. After that I put on a bigger bead and then some more. The pipe is probably closer to 3 inches instead of 2. Instead of welding in my tuyere I made an insert to slip inside the pipe.
What I have works well I'm just starting to make another one that's a little more compact, the grating for the tongs and hammers will swing up into position and my travel anvil will have a shelf underneath to bolt it down to while I'm on the road. I want to make sure I have the joint 'tween the pipe and drum done well because welding is a bit of a weak point for me at the moment. (practice, practice, practice).

The drum I use has a hole just around the same size of the pipe but I could just use the bolt holes to connect the plate to. Sounds like a plan, I had previously just welded pieces of rebar into the bolt holes to fill.

My question is about welding up pieces together for my next JYF. I've made one before and I'm looking to improve on the manufacture of the next one. I'm using a brake drum set in a steel plate and the pipe is 2" schedule 40. Last time I just kept welding until it was just a massive bead. I use a Lincoln Mig sp135 with a Lincoln multipurpose .035" flux core. I don't use shielding gas.

Would there be different type of wire to use to get the pipe to weld to the brake drum better?