rbcsaver

Ditto!

you all can have the anvil. I want the TRUCK!!!

Try a different media, such as Black diamond.

Silicosis is a problem with sand anyway, though probably less in a cabinet.

Steve

Many smart folks here, so perhaps you can help.
I have an old Bernzomatic propane bottle pencil point torch,
that I believe was from my Grandfather's tool box (I'm pushing 60). It has a UL sticker on
the proximal stem, but no part number. It does have engraved "US and Foreign patents applied".

The plastic flame adjustment knob broke a few years ago, and plastic repairs wouldn't work.
No knob, no work.
So, it remained in a box with my newer Bernzomatic MAPP and Propane stuff for years.
A few days ago, I made a new knob from a sliver of 3/4 copper tube and HTS-2000. All went
very well until I had the misguided thought of trying to clean up the copper and HTS-2000 knob
with a grinder instead of a hand file.

As Confucius say, "one nick equal one thousand threads." I did screw up, in my haste

I have called Bernzomatic, and customer service tells me that they recently purchased  the company,
no parts and no info are available.

At the least, does any one have the knowledge of the thread size for the needle valve, and central housing,
so that I may try to re-tap it.

I would like to use this torch to start my forge, more for sentmental reasons, than economics ans I do have many
torches to do the same.

So much thanks,
Steve

STANZZ!!!,I DON GOTS TO SHOW YOU NO STINKING STANZZZ !!!!

It has the HB "hourglass base" and stout step I associate with HB's so very likely it is. The larger central hole in the base and on the sides are handling holes used to hold the anvil with special tongs while working it in a large steam hammer and so are a good sign---low grade cast iron anvils don't get worked on a steam hammer as they would crumble! Serial numbers are usually on the front foot (below the horn on the little vertical flat section right at the base where it meets the stand) They are often unreadable due to rust and dammage. Early HB's may be hard to see the hourglass bottom depression as they were quite thin walled and not very deep and so can wear almost flat from long use as scale is an abrasive and tends to get between the stand and anvil over time...I have one like that but the side stamping is clear and pristine!

Greetings all,
I'm a novice to this site, and to forging steel in general. However, I'm a hands-on late 50's
guy who is quite hands on, and more than familiar with metal working and welding.
3-4 years ago I purchased a "old" anvil, of 122 lbs (per my bathroom scale.

I just recently made a stand from 4 6x6 pressure treated stuff, on end Gorilla glued together,
then wrapped in 2 x 8 pine, in vertical position, glued and screwed, with an aluminum diamond plate top.
The base must weight 100 lbs. My plan is for some horse stall mat ( 1/2" rubber ) under the anvil.

I now now that this is a Hay-Budden Anvil (according to the side), made in Brooklyn, NY. However, I can't find a serial
number, or age link. There is alot of base damage, that looks like square (ish) holes. I assume the base is cast.

Where can I look for the serial number? Should I attempt to mig weld the base defects.
Thank you for all your assistance!
Regards,
Steve

Greetings all,
I'm a novice to this site, and to forging steel in general. However, I'm a hands-on late 50's
guy who is quite hands on, and more than familiar with metal working and welding.
3-4 years ago I purchased a "old" anvil, of 122 lbs (per my bathroom scale.

I just recently made a stand from 4 6x6 pressure treated stuff, on end Gorilla glued together,
then wrapped in 2 x 8 pine, in vertical position, glued and screwed, with an aluminum diamond plate top.
The base must weight 100 lbs. My plan is for some horse stall mat ( 1/2" rubber ) under the anvil.

I now now that this is a Hay-Budden Anvil (according to the side), made in Brooklyn, NY. However, I can't find a serial
number, or age link. There is alot of base damage, that looks like square (ish) holes. I assume the base is cast.

Where can I look for the serial number? Should I attempt to mig weld the base defects.
Thank you for all your assistance!
Regards,
Steve