Anhanguera
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Posts posted by Anhanguera
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nice building skills, how much you paid for the leg vice?
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Im a begginer too, and i've already read the book suggested by MattBower. Its a good book very clear and instructional, you can also download book via torrent engines theres a huge pack on the web.
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Thx for the link, sure i agree before i've start the forge i've read a lot but when i was putting more fuel and looking at the heated metal its other experience.
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For hammers I would either get some tool steel or weld up some pieces of rebar with a carbon steel plate welded on the front. In hammers the hardness does matter, so it really needs a carbon steel or tool steel face. Definately post pictures of your tongs once you've made them!
got it, im reading some books about blacksmithing, so it will take some time for me to make the tongs but when they're done i'll post it here. -
Well, as to the thickness, it depends on your work. If you'll be using them for some really heavy work (tool making and such) I'd go with at least 1/2 inch thickness. For some small work tongs, I see no reason why 5/16 inch or 1/4 inch shouldn't work. Carbon content doesn't matter a whole lot in tongs, as long as they don't get very brittle when quenching.
got it, and about hammer making, any advice ? -
I think nails will do fine. You can bend some long nails over the feet to secure it, or just leave them straight if you want to move the anvil easily. Happy hammering!
I've thought nails too, well first i need a anvil hahaha, in 19 days i'll get one. Do you have any tip about the rebar thickness ? I'll do tongs ,and for hammers wich material is better i mean about the carbon quantity in it. -
That is a mighty fine looking set up! That log would be a good one to put the anvil on! This is definately a good one!
Thx Sir, well i want fix the anvil on it, what you recomend bolts or nails? I will stop damaging it with hot iron lol. -
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i want to make some tongs , it be usefull for it? hei i grabed a piece of iron and tried to test it at the upgraded forge, the fire isn't the better but for a start i managed do to some things, Note: never worked before with smithing. How do i put images here???Rebar is pretty much a mystery metal, but it works for good practice metal. There can be a considerable amount of fluctuation in the actual carbon content of the piece, but I say go for it as a start. You'll always be able to find a way to use it! A blacksmith is resourceful!
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a Question , rebar is a usable material for working? Its quite cheap here can be brought from3-to-10 dollars at 6 meters long bars.
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For charcoal that blower puts out way too much air! When I have to make use of such a system I don't attach the blower to the pipe but have a gap between them so I can aim the blower only slightly down the pipe and adjust it as needed to get the fire I want. Using charcoal you want a deep fire so turn the blocks on their narrow long sides to make a deeper trough say 10-15 cm apart and pile it full of charcoal by making the walls parallel with out a side area that does not get air from the blower you will get greater efficiency of fuel use. You might think about building a bellows---I've don it for about US$1 before using scrap lumber, hinges and a rubberized material they make awnings from for the "leathers". Works quite well for charcoal, not as well for coal. As for anvil size---on the net there is a picture of a smith in Nepal? forging knives using a sledgehammer head as his anvil---set in a stump and doing great work with it!
Hei Thomas thx for the tips, About the pipe i've fixed the metal one with plastic and changed the forge design a little. I dont get clearly what ou said about the bricks, and i would really apreciate if you show me that bellow and tell me how you done then. Im solving the anvil issue. Tomorrow i'll upload here some new pics. -
That should work fine, so long as the smoke can get out. I'd love to see a picture of how you got it all set up!
i will upload some photos , im having troubles to find someone to saw the metal pipe as long i don't have any tools for that, this morning i've looked for some workshops arround my place but they're all closed , hehehe. -
The problem with a concrete plate as a roof is that it would choke the fire. The wood allows for smoke to filter around it while it burns air holes in it.
got it, as i put it covers less than 30% of my hearth. -
sorry, i misunderstood what you've said, i've some short wood here , i plan use it on the fire as you said, the concrete plate i mean on the top of the forge like roofI wouldn't advise a concrete plate, just go with the coal fire then. It'll still work very well. I am personally a big fan of using a coal/charcoal mixture. I find the heat output is better. That anvil sounds like a good one! It'll serve you well for years to come! -
Well, the stump (or even just a log or several) will definately make the fire hotter, but they also will help maintain the fire if you need to walk away for a moment or two. It really has helped me, I use basically the same set up, only mine is less fancy than yours. I use some bricks and a pair of cheap fireplace bellows. It really does make a difference having the log there. It prevents the fire from going out and it periodically drops new charcoal onto the hearth.
As to the anvil, Definately go with the bigger one if it is a good anvil with a steel face that is mostly unmarked. I'm glad I can be of some help!
I have a log here but its to big to put in the fire need to be cut and i don't have a axe(yet hahaha), a concrete round plate work to reflect?
about the anvil is a brand new exactly 55 pound(25kg) wich holes, horn and a flat face , for now its the best i can acquire, i just need hold more 20 days ,lol -
If you take this and make a nice charcoal fire in it, it should work. Also, metal pipe is a definate must. On top of the forge you could put a large half-stump, which would give extra heat and reflect it down. All in all, good design though! a 22 pound anvil will work, but is not ideal. If it costs less and helps you though, I say go for it. You can always save up for the heavier one later!
when i get it improved ill post more pics, im thanked for your tips. I'll try something with the half stump.I agree about the metal pipe and im looking for it. And about the anvil i've can manage to buy a 50 pound one for $160, but only about March 20th , lol. This extra heat and reflection will really enhance the perfomance? Didn't noticed it before. -
I'm sorry but I'm forget in Europe we have kilograms you have pounds and my 100 kg = 220 yours pounds :D . My neighbor have fine heavy anvil but he don't want sell but he have second - small mayby I can borrow from him.
Well prezes, i use kilogram too, but i use pounds to simplify for the US forum members, an anvil in poland costs barely the same price here wich is much much higher than in states.
If he is willing to loan, then take advantage of it. Treat it with respect and work only hot or annealed metal on it, use a cutting plate when you need to use chisels. Maybe he will part with it when he sees you are taking care of it and using it properly to make beautiful work.
100 pound or 50 kg is a good starting size, and can carry you through a career, depending on the size of work you do. Remember that an anvil can look like anything, as long as it does the job.
Phil
Thx for tips phill, a 60 kg here costs around 400 dollars, i think i will take a small one wich i can pay and assure that is thight locked at my work table . -
I see we have the same problem, yes diffrent country but still difficult to buy some cheap, 100 kg anwil cost slightly 1500 zł (465 US Dollars) so I'm still looking for. Now I homemade simply anvil (big word anvil) with profile "C" I'm cut and make horn and I weld this. I' use two 2" pipes for legs (one leg = two pieces pipe weld in T). Legs are not parallel. When I first use, wow what a terrible noise, I'm fill up pipes sand, and in profile "C" I'm put wool (I have some from aunt isolation for chimney). Now is OK, quiet little heavy, I make this some times ago I use for cold blacksmithing (rectification and bending) :D
Prezes i've found a 125pound on my city for 350 dollars, but i think i'll buy a really small one with horne and holes for $75(22pound). -
Thx for comments, so i'll try assemble a metal pipe at the end of this one, and i have a question a small anvil of 22 pounds would work for me right now?(itend to make tools and later knifes).
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So im starting in blacksmithing then i build up a clay firepot wich does not worked yet, then i go for the easy alternative wich is use a old grill and some leftover bricks that i have for the last construction at my place, then i've put it all together and used a hairdryer with a plastic sewer pipe(I know it can melt but it was on hand and i think for now it works), now to work at my forge im saving for a 55.1 pound anvil wich costs here (Brazil) around $170(U.S. Dollar). Heres some pictures(before assembled and with a small test fire) hope you enjoy and comment.(when i take pics i really take pics, hope you dont mind of the number of then lol)
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Any suitable sized lump of solid material will do. People have successfully used stone even, granite and basalt. Rail couplers, pieces of heavy plate steel, fork lift tines, etc.
If you have welding ability you can take a smaller piece, say 30 pound and make a solid tripod out of box tubing or angle iron with feet that can be pinned to the ground and expect the solid mounting to improve the performance making a rather usable anvil.
Welcome aboard!
Phil
Hi Phil and thanks for the advice, i dont have much tools here as my first steps i plan make my own blachsmith tools then go for bigger projects, as i said about the anvil i found on a rural shop near here some anvils but for now i can only affor a small one 2.5lbs for $35. -
Welcome! You'll learn alot here and we look forward to seeing your progress. So why the fighting Irish avitar from someone from Brazil?
Thx Randy! Picture from avatar is cause i'm a NBA fan and support Celtics heheheh.
People im having some issues about finding a cheap anvil, im looking for a roadrail track and still don't found one , there is another suggestions or more options? -
Instead of steel firepot , for my first forge im trying a mud based forge. As im trying the cheapest project at this time it costed me less than $15. I hope the mud get dry soon. I hope it can handle the work as my very first attempt.Btw, as soon as i can i'll try the bucket forge model. Good luck and keep us informed Ridgeway!
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greetings accepted anhang certainly cant say im a wonderful smith, and im not even all that sweet, but what a gentleman thomas is ! welcome to the site, yes we will all want to check out your new forge etc, will look out for you! good luck with your social life once you start wading through all this info...... there is rather a lot on here
Thx Beth, apreciate all the support i'm getting here its really encouraging.
howdy from west texas
Thx, Jimmy!
New forge
in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
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to me looks a awesome deal, you got it delivered and for less than $150, im not so familiar with US prices, but here in Brazil a leg vice like that costs from R$150-250 even rusty or somehow cracked.