r smith

just so no one gets there hopes up,  that hammer is sold and gone.

Congrats to Randy,  Did you buy it? How much did it sell for? (nice to have a record of these things for future reference) :)

r smith

An obscene image......... :o

Looks European by the style of those vises, They always are a few years ahead of us in setting trends.....

Give the add a little time and give him a call. Make sure to print the add so you have ph #. I like to let an add expire and then call them, that way you know nobody else is "on their way over to buy it"

smith out

Thanks Fe, I could not see that on my screen.

what is wrong with the one pictured?

Nice read, thanks for updating us. :) It seems you should offer to replace it with a hydraulic press? Are there any cheap ones that would do the job? Just tell them the old guy was right to only use it as a press due to its being messed up- let me get it out of the way and buy you a real press- it will do what we use that broken machine for much better and safer too.

smith out

Tim, how is this die holding up? Is there anything you see that could be improved on it after some time using it.

smith

Just a quick question about anvil bases, It's my understanding that commercially produced hammers like the little giant have hollow cavities under the anvil block, yet these hammers  are held in high regard for their striking power. How did the manufacturer get around         the issues associated with the hollow base?

even my one piece nazel 3b has a "hollow" anvil - this is needed due to the cast nature of the anvil/frame/main casting. The wall thickness of the casting is pretty thick, much more so than the 1/4" or so of a gas bottle.

smith out

I don't think you need to heat treat those large chunks for anvil use, sure you could and it sounds good  and it would in fact be "better" but in reality... Look up brian brazael?  striking anvils on here, pretty sure they are mild steel. Stand the plate on end and you can hammer on it right now. This lets you get to work and use the anvil and if you wish to change it at all no big deal, after you have used it enough to be satisfied then you could heat treat it later. Also if the kid is using it a "softer" anvil is a good thing to learn on.

smith out

Sounds like a good plan with the youngster. I would do like you're thinking, start small with simple tools and as his skill progresses to need bigger and better slowly build them up. As need for a shop space becomes apparent then build as needed, Maybe a small covered area to start with, Later  it may get a wall, then expanded a little longer, all this would be under a "shed roof" sloping in one direction. Next step would be double size with the roof sloping the other way. Lots of info to search for.

smith

PM sent

Pics would be great. Please post when you get it apart.

smith

Thank you for posting here, I saw a still pic on the other forum you posted this on and was curious what it was, now I see another one of your good ideas.

 I was not going to respond on the other site, I dont agree with the way they handled some of the "drama", though as a spectator it is a bit of entertainment.

smith out

Dave, did your short stroke issue change with the change in seal tightness on the ram? Shorter strokes with the tighter seal?

Harrismetalsmith and Dave, How did the muffler info work out?

I have had an idea in the back of my head for a few years now about how to soften the blows to do light work without danger of smashing the work by mistake. I have not really thought it out and should talk it over with Krouse. My thought is to de-tune the hammer blows with an adjustable linkage between the two valves, maybe tight fitting pins to be set in a few different positions, similar to an OTC adjustable wrench. I am a little worried that the out of time valves will allow movement of the ram & piston that may damage itself....  

Besides the little bit of missing gear teath, it seems to be pretty solid. The only part he mentions missing is the wood handle. He mentions the gasket to seal it, but these things weren't meant to hold oil. Sounds like a rather good piece, I'd grab it up if I had the money.

I will second that.  Good deal for something nicer than some forges in use.

You would be done by now if you cut it cold instead of typing on the computer. The more you think about it the more time goes by and it is still not cut. If you want fast go take it to a shop with a shear.
smith out

Cold Chisel

Dave,
Congrats on the new seals.
Good luck with the heater, maybe a 100w light bulb overnight, inside one of the side covers would be enough to take some chill off?
r smith

Glad you are OK :D It looks like the ferule was not crimped. I have my own crimper to avoid issues such as this.

Thank you for a great story Ptree, I always enjoy reading your posts. It is sad that guys like you worked for are dying off and being replaced with shmucks like in this 60 minutes story.
http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?...ain;contentAux

To bad you only got facemasks: http://news.yahoo.com/video/man-finds-20-000-dumpster-193000929.html
smith

At least you have a conopy :D
r smith

Dave, very nice video. Thanks for sharing your results, I am curious as to the turnout. I had never really considered the muffler to be of importance in the operation of the machine. I always looked at it more as a exhaust pipe.
R. Smith, I would love to know the measurements of the 2 B cone if you have them. My muffler has been repaired, and I don't know how close to the original it is.
As far as the leather goes, it does make it big difference, especially in the drawing up of the ram. I have layered thinner leather to achieve the right thickness, not ideal but it works.

Either he wants the physical size which would weigh in the 500 lb neighborhood or he wants a 100 lb small one, which there a new ones to choose from. He has not been back to specify so.....