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I Forge Iron

Dave H.

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Posts posted by Dave H.

  1. Power Hammers are like Harley's, if they ain't leaking oil, THEY ARE OUT of it!  Put a brake on that puppy & you should have a great hammer ;-)

     I think the dies just need to be surface ground to get them flat & the edges  rounded and you should be good to go I would lube it up good & run it slowly to see if there is any bad wear or anything & if it seems good I would run it as is. You might talk to your local welder with lot's of cast iron welding skills about welding in the crack. Bad thing about LG hammers is their cast quality sometimes ain't all that good.

    Dave H.

  2. Do you mean drawing dies? In general flat dies are better for general forging. It is much easier & safer to use flat dies when using tooling with your hammer. Power hammers like to beat themselves apart. Loc tite, lock nuts, castlelated nuts All will help but going over your hammer & checking them over before & during operation is the best preventive medicine. Don't be afraid to use lot's of Grease & oil. I prefer to lube with oil myself as oil will help flush grit & slag out of a bearing where as grease turns it into laping compound. Hope this helps.

    Dave Huffman

  3. I have found swage blocks make great door stops & boat anchors. I would rather make tools to use on the anvil or power hammer. Using a swage block with top tools is a 2 person job. Make a spring swage for the anvil or power hammer & it is a one person job. I know lot's of people love swage blocks but for the most part for me they are a waste.

    Dave Huffman

  4. I found three elevator counterweights at a local junk yard. Using Red heads to bolt the counter weights to the slab & then bolted the 50Lb LG to the counterweights. Never had a problem with the slab or the hammer moving. Also it hit REAL hard when I got it all bolted down. These counterweights weighed about 120 Lbs a piece.

    Dave Huffman

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