monkeyboy

i have a half a dozen small pieces . i use the end , i mean i stand the track on end and use this for peining pins and such. i drive big nails or screws in to the stump the track sits on to hold it

the ball or top of the rail is a pain to hammer on, at least for trying to make a knife.

get yourself a real anvil.

not a chinese POS. anyway luck with your hammer

buzz

oh yeah i ain't been here for awhile, got a new system and a new browser so i'm getting back in touch

there are several home built 2x72 grinders to look at on you tube.
i am scrounging for some 2inch skateboard wheels for my 2x72 build.
i'll go with a single phase 1horsepower motor to start with.
all good
buzz

that particular shape is called and elk in mora speak.
Helle or Lauri , made a knife like it. i can't remember now
i made one similar but it is not as cool as yours.
if ever you want to sell this little cutter let me know
all good
buzz:cool:

Busse uses S7 in their blade.
i've also heard S7 is used in mower blades??
buzz

heck i always use epoxy. Bark river uses JB weld.
seems to work O.K.
buzz
my pc was jammed for about three months till i could afford to have it repaired.
all good

The other way to get an equally beautiful and usable blade would be to buy a bar of 1075(close carbon content to that preferred by Yoshindo), forge it out into your blade blank, then forge in the bevels. Grind and sen and file it the rest of the way to semi final shape, coat with the refractory clay known as Satanite, quench in warmed oil, then pull out and stick in your household oven at 400 to 495 degrees Fahrenheit for an hour. Pull it out, let it cool then finish grind/file, polish, then mount.
a perfect formula for success:D
seems so easy on paper.

super job. nessmuk pattern looks like it can do the job.
all good, especially nice handles.
buzz

yes, i noticed it also. great idea but what a chore to make something like this
triangulated three sided piece of iron.
do you think is a tinkerer's anvil? very unusual to say the least.
buzz

that tanto top right middle photo has a nice shape. hum.
buzz

very cool
ApprenticeMan , i've been looking at a few examples on ebay of old laminated hewing hatchets and the like. good carbon steel must have been something in those days., most of these old tools have a piece of high carbon laid on to softer steel so to speak on one side , not actually sandwiched between. learning by doing is the way.
:D

what a horrible photo :oof a really cool knife. this knife is very handy. do you have a sheath for it.?
very cool.
buzz

looks great to me. lot of work and heat treat process to boot. super cutting tool.
thumbs up.
buzz

spikes. i live in a railroad town and HC high carbon spikes are getting hard to find. got any secrets as to where to look???
buzz

i love it. 12volt dc and all. the real way of knife making. his caravan looks a little like a tinker's outfit.
buzz
thanks for the heads up. the videos are really pretty good. not missing much and the production /show is tight. the use of different power supplies and alternative methods is great value. definitely thumbs up.
his tutorial on handles is dead on. all good.
Greenpete for president.
wouldn't hurt my feelings if we had him over here doing his stuff for public T.V.
i enjoy his style

What about the iron electrode?
The iron electrode works best if it :osurrounds the object to be cleaned:o, since the cleaning is "line of sight" to a certain extent. The iron electrode will be eaten away with time. Stainless steel has the advantage (some alloys, but not all) that it is not eaten away.
i don't quite understand this surround the object with the electrode???
what would the electrode look like?
explain by example, say a small jewelers vise.
buzz

i picked up a box of old files and rasps at auction last week. 25 or more in that box. half of which are mill-bastard and the rest rasps of one kind or another. coulda bought two draw-knives for $16 but what fun would that be!!!@#$@!
so anybody make draw-knives from files or rasps???
if so give.
buzz:D
cost / box of files $2.00

my two cents,:confused:
super japanese style blade made in america by american blade smiths,deserves an american polish. my two cents.
buzz:D

if you can find this article:
The Journal of the Society for Industrial Archaeology vol.9,#1 1983
" The Development of the Leather Belt Drive ", by Theodore Z. Penn

nice lookin' knives and what a hammer.
buzz

pieces like this rail cut-off



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all good stuff. i check the local railroad dumpster on my daily rounds. ash wood sledge handles some never had a sledge attached?, several broken sledge handles which do good service for hammer handles. iron! lots of iron and brackets and washers and ??????? railroad stuff.
the track crew cleared out some switch shacks that had 12 volt battery chargers , they cut the power cords off and some were missing clips ,but i replaced the clips and put new power cords on and they all worked just fine.
been tryin to find parts for a project sander/grinder 2X72 inch. no doubt everything i'll need will show up in the dumpster.
oh yeah, i have quite a few track cut-offs. they make nice cutters.

i have an old OTTO Western Indian Chief, hand crank. i don't however have the guts to take it apart. once i cleared all the Mud daubers out (7) :oshe practically started spinning by herself. what a well made machine.
anyway i'm killin' time till someone comes up with an idea to get your Otto goin'. i'll bet there is a way.
how bout askin' your local friendly machinist to cut some bushing sleeves???
babbitts are simple bearing sleeves?
h--l i don't know.:confused:
buzz

hey man that is a beautiful hawk.
buzz

making your own fuel is so cool.
this homemade charcoal also works great for the BBQ grill.
for hardwood charcoal try your local cabinet maker. if he burns wood your outta luck, unless he's your brother-in-law. LOL
also construction cutoffs are usually there for the asking. take a bag of your homemade BBQ charcoal to the crew and they will be glad you picked up the scrap woods.
buzz

1st Law of Fregoe states : anything you can make for yourself is better than anything you can buy.

well anyway you get the idea. Ecart, soft wood i.e: pine ,is perfect for charcoal. burns to no ash and is like you stated there for the taking.
from twin oaks forge, google twinoaksforge.com for more info
The concept is simple. Start a fire under the container. Begin driving off the gases. Route these gases back under the container. Ignite the gases with the fire already burning under the container. Use these gases to drive of more gas and ignite without adding any other fuel to the fire. When the gas is all driven off the fire dies. Let everything cool off, open the container and you have charcoal.

I use pine charcoal. It burns hot and clean with virtually no ash. It also burns fast. I burn up a lot of charcoal when I am forging. I have tried hardwood charcoal in my forge but it seems to burn down to a lot of ash and small pieces restricting the air flow. I also have a hard time getting it to welding heat. Small blades such as knives were fine, but I could not seem to generate the heat I needed for the large hunks of steel I forge and weld.
i use so called waste wood from our local municipal dump. you might find a
railroad spike (keg) can along the tracks in your area. this is a great size for the charcoal container which sets inside of the big barrel.
hope this is good for you.
buzz