Jump to content
I Forge Iron

tecnovist

Members
  • Posts

    62
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by tecnovist

  1. FAQs about Blacksmithing and Metalworking
    (This sounds good)
    A primitive method is to use a small pine stick and see when it

    chars in the melt. . . I think this is 450 to 500 F.

    A more accurate but primitive method is to make a bunch of

    polished plain carbon steel "coupons". You hold half of one of

    these in the melt with light tongs and watch the temper colors.

    When the colors stop changing it is at the melt temperature.

    Compare the temper colors to a temper color chart similar to the

    one we have in our FAQs. This will give you fairly accurate

    readings from 420 to 640 F.
  2. Stress Releave Springs
    Hi all --- I need to build some springs to repair a car lock -- I under stand if I use a spring and re form / bend it to the required shape to make the new spring, I need to stress releave it --- Some spring will be Stainless Springs and some Spring Steel --- Can any one tell me some different technics of doing this, and the temperature's needed to achieve this ---Thanks

    could I melt some lead and put the reformed spring onto the molten lead -- what ease ways are there of telling the temperature of the lead---

  3. I have straighten a lot of leaf springs some 60mm wide by 6 or 8 mm by useing a BIG hammer 13 pound and a real large Block of hard wool 700mm high 600mm wide--- have some cord / rope to stop the spring from going onto orbit. if you hit it worng or it brakes in 2 ---
    --I then sharpen about 6 inches of the side of the spring steel tool that is 600mm long to make a hammer slasher for cutting cars up ---I hit them with a 4 pound hammer to cut panal steel and the like ---I tip water from a plastic coke Bottle onto the hot part to stop up setting the temper..as i sharpen them with a 7 inch grinder.. I have the gringer in one hand and the water Bottle in the other.... I have a Roveing Vice on one 44 gallon drum and another 44 gall drum to put the grinder on.. I have Holes slashed in the top of the drums , some were for the water to go stops me getting wet--

    --to add ,,Make shore eveyone has a hard hat on ---

  4. Mike Turner
    Hi --- I had one like that had a damaged thread after getting it out useing a gas touch it heat it--- i cut a groove like a gap along the lenght of the nut -- I also deepened the thread on the bolt with a disc grinder--- then closed up the gap in the nut and welded up the groove =:) OK a don't lean on the handal to much ----:)

    --- When you heat it use never-seze --- you could even fit a grease nippel on to the nut then pump never seaze in then heat the nut ----

    right I see the crack in the nut I would use a disc grinder with a cutting disc and cut the crack open -------undo the nut&bolt---file things up to a good fit---- vee out the now cut crack PUT NEVER SEZE on the nut&bolt clamp it onto the bolt then weld the vee up on the nut ---{{{ do not breath in the smoke }}} Let things cool before you turn them----

    Remember a good weld can only be done with a good fit up

  5. --You could dress the jaw seat with a disc grinder---Then drill and thread out the jaw holes to a larger size --- you will not have to fully weld the file ---- just stich weld to much heat won't do the file any good---

    Phillips RSP ---is what i use they worK will on files

  6. I have straighten a lot of leaf springs some 60mm wide by 6 or 8 mm by useing a BIG hammer 13 pound and a real large Block of hard wool 700mm high 600mm wide--- have some cord to stop the spring from going onto orbit. if you hit it worng or it brakes in 2 -----i then sharpen about 6 inches of the side of the spring steel tool that is 600mm long to make a hammer slasher for cutting cars up ---I hit them with a 4 pound hammer to cut panal steel and the like ---I tip water from a plastic coke Bottle onto the hot part to stop up setting the temper..as i sharpen them with a 7 inch grinder.. I have the gringer in one hand and the water Bottle in the other.... I have a Roveing Vice on one 44 gallon drum and another 44 gall drum to put the grinder on.. I have Holes slashed in the top of the drums , some were for the water to go stops me getting wet----to add ,,Make shore evey one has a hard hat on ---

    ----

  7. I annealed ( heated then let cool in lime ) an old couse File then drilled it --- fitted to to the vice works well so far and welding to the vice is not good if its a cast iron vice---- if its a steel vice just cut a file and weld it on there

  8. I keep them they can be made into tools--- I once welded some bits as jaws onto some vice grips i was rebuilding to make some stud removers that griped the stud to a 45 degree angle so when you turned them they would not foul on the next stud --- After welding the file bit to them with a Phillips RSP ---and grinding to shape , I sharpened /put grooves in them with those 1 mm wide cutting discs --- I have used then on about 50 studs so far still going well----a real handy tool

  9. Hi---- I have some old Locks that I have a need to rebuild key's for and need info on the type of Machine that would be needed to make them --- The key's are a long type 2.1/2 by 1/2 wide inches with 1mm by 1mm grooves running the lenght of them--- or is there some way they can be made in a lathe-- like if a rotating cutting tool was fitted in the chuck and the part fixed to the bed----I thank you for any info at all====

    ---These will be made out of annealed Spring steel and them heat treated---

  10. Hi All i think its the iron oxide's that are used

    brake drums i would not use that as it contains asbestus or is highy likey to

    I think the sand paper grit MAY help as its silicon carbide and should melt

    although not all grinding grit is silicon carbide

×
×
  • Create New...