rolyater

John,

I have an observation regarding your UHMW guide blocks. It appears in a brief glimpse in your video, that your adjusting/locating screws for the UHMW blocks have pointed (conical) ends, and conical holes. I could not see if all of them are such, but if so they could possibly be the reason you are not having as good of results with your bearings. As the tup goes up and down, the bearing blocks have some friction, that would make them want to move up and down some also. The conical points and holes would act as ramps, and tend to push the guide blocks harder against the steel surfaces as the tup moves, increasing the friction as it moves, making proper adjustment difficult.
If your adjusting bolts had cylindrical flat bottomed ends and bores, they would locate the blocks, and allow adjustment without tending to increase the pressure on the tup as it moves up and down. Just a thought, but it may make a difference.

I think set up right, that the UHMW should work quite well, and be durable and forgiving. Make sure that what you have is real UHMW, and not just high density polyethylene. UHMW is a sentered material, made from powder fused under high pressure, and has the ability to retain a little lubricant. You can also adhere it with epoxy successfully, if you flame treat it first( run a touch over it briefly ). It is the material used on the bottoms of snow skis, snowboards.

Your hammer is beautifully designed and built! I enjoyed your videos a lot!

Best regards,

Ron

Ron,
I am in the process of raising my anvil and hammer height. So when I pulled up the anvil i shot these photos for you. The base measures 36" by 17 1/2". The baseplate is about 2 1/2" on the end and tapers up to 4" thick as it becomes the main post. The main anvil is a 17 1/2" octagon, The one photo shows the height to the bottom of the dovetail. All of the blocking in these photos is only temporary as we raise the hammer. I am using oak for all of the permanent blocking.














These last photos are of an extra sow block I have. It is not good for the regular sow block because the dovetails are not 90 degrees to one another, but it may be good to use to weld into your anvil to create a dovetail for your sow block to connect into. If you want it you can have it, just pay the shipping, it is heavy.





If I had to do it all over I would have mounted the hammer and anvil to a 3" baseplate like the guy posted on my Nazel die height post. You could do this and use that large baseplate as the base to weld your anvil to. The more mass the merrier! Just a thought. Sorry your anvil was stolen.
Matt

The sizes are very different. It would be easier to build it from a few large chunks then to cut one down. Mine is currently not installed and I can give you exact dimensions if you need. Hopefully it will be in the ground in a couple weeks.

If you could find an anvil from a smaller hammer like a fairbanks or another hammer with a tall anvil with no foot it would be easier then converting a footed nazel anvil.

by chance i saw the collector in lowes he said we gotta get that hammer to your shop and run it.fat chance ,that hammer got a lot of repair/cleaning to be done before it runs, and he say when i ask about his PILE of anvils" Thats personal" i will not sweep a spot just yet for that nazel 2b

Built this out of 9 pieces of 6" as a sow block for my Niles weighs in at a ton, took about 40 hrs of welding, not much $ and works fine.

Kerry,

Thanks for your help. The dimensions would be greatly appreciated, a photo would be helpful as well, if available.
Good luck on your installation. I do know about the Potsville 2B,s and they do have an anvil, its left handed, and mine is right handed, not a huge problem, I don't think. I plan on going to see it. They also want a lot for it!

Thanks again, Ron

The sizes are very different. It would be easier to build it from a few large chunks then to cut one down. Mine is currently not installed and I can give you exact dimensions if you need. Hopefully it will be in the ground in a couple weeks.

If you could find an anvil from a smaller hammer like a fairbanks or another hammer with a tall anvil with no foot it would be easier then converting a footed nazel anvil.

Hi Rusty,

It would be worth quite a bit, but would depend if its the right one, and what the costs involved in moving it are. My machinery is in San Diego, but will eventually move to New Mexico.
I would certainly give a couple of grand for the right one delivered price.

Thanks for your interest, and help
Ron

I am going to see a cantankerous, old, smelly, hard headed, COLLECTOR. (SPIT) who has had a 2b sitting outside in the weather for some twenty plus years. Likely the only piece of that machine that aint rusted solid and is still servisable would be the anvil. If i survive the encounter with him and he is somewhat reasonable about selling ANYTHING, whats it worth? He is near False River La. right next to nowhere and shipping may be an issue. I hate to go there, it's likely make me mad, when i see a PILE of anvils just rusting away! COLLECTORS! (SPIT)!!!

Hi All,

I am missing an anvil for a Nazel 2B. My was stolen from a friends storage yard in San Diego, prior to 6 months ago. Discovered it missing when I went to load it, and the rest of the machine, to haul it to New Mexico to start using it finally. I have owned about 5 years.

If anyone one has any leads it would really appreciated! Also does anyone know about the inter-changeability of the anvils between the various sizes of hammers?

Thanks,
Ron Taylor

I was about to post about an anvil for my 2B being stolen, and wondering if anyone knew about where to start looking for a replacement, when I ran across this! This is certainly even more unbelievable. Sorry.

I am not sure when mine went missing, I know it has been gone for several months from a friends a storage yard in San Diego.If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. I am pretty sure a 4B anvil would not be compatible.

Misery love company, hope yours turns up!