dmac27

I embedded 30" sections of railroad tie into the dirt floor of my shop then tamped the dirt in around them.   Then I skinned that with plywood and mounted the hammer ( a 25 lb LG) with 6" lag bolts.    It is very solid.   I used 5 sections so the foot print is roughly 40 x 30.

Parts arrive yesterday Dave...thanks again for such prompt service.   I am hoping to get the main bearings poured this weekend.  

Just spoke with Dave at Little Giant this morning my pulley is already re-poured and they were machining it today.   It will probably ship back out today along with the parts I ordered.   I am completely amazed at how fast they move.   The pulley arrived Friday morning and is almost done.    These guys are great.

Thanks for sharing that.   I guess it also proves the point that safety should always be first and foremost on our minds.

Amazing how ironic life can be.    I went to the US Post Office this morning to ship my pulley to Roger and Sid and the postal worker asked me why the box was so heavy so I told her what it was.   She was actually pretty knowledgeable about power hammers and I guess with good reason.   She happens to be married to Ron Kinyon.   Whodathunk??? 

Taring it down! It looks like it is only a few weeks old. My hammer is solid black from at least a 1/16th inch of oil and shop dust grime covering the whole thing.

 

Good luck with the rebuild 

Looks can be deceiving...both of the main bearings were cracked.   I am pretty sure whoever poured those bearings used babbitt with a higher tin content.   Tin based babbitt is more for bearings on a crank shaft for these hammers the softer lead based babbitt is still hard enough for good wear resistance but can also stand up to the pounding.   There is only a slight bit a galling on the shaft surfaces so I should be able to smooth them out pretty easily by hand.   I finished taking everything off the frame this morning and started de-greasing it...wow lots of oil build up on this thing.    

Dmac27 ya your little giant should be grey, as frank stated the early ones where green. Sid uses shamroc green now in his restorations.

Awful nice counter top leaning on your wall. I am the production supervisor for a counter top company here in Kearney.

Yes I know it should be Gray.   Sid uses Machinery Gray on new style hammer rebuilds.   I am just not sure if I want it Gray.   I have been in the granite business for 22 years.   Started of as an installer and now I am in sales.

Here is the only before picture I have.

Well my re-build of my 25# Little Giant is finally underway.   I bought the hammer from azmike about 2 months ago.   After getting it home I realized the rear main bearing was cracked.   So I decided to fix it.   Well just like most things go it will basically be a full on rebuild.   After taking the main shaft off last night I found out that the front main bearing is also cracked.   No big deal I was planing to re-pour them anyhow.   I think whomever rebuilt this thing in the past may have used a tin based babbitt for the bearings.   The shaft had a minor amount of galling that I should be able to take care of and I am sending the pulley off to Nebraska City to have  that bearing done.   The toggle link pins were actually all still good and snug.   I will however have to replace the right side gib as it was broken and brazed back together at some point.   Once I get it all stripped down repainting is also going to be in order.   I am thinking blue to match my belt grinder.   I know machinery gray would be the correct color for this hammer but I thought that was a bit boring.   I will post pics of the progress later today or tomorrow.   Stay tuned.

Here is what one guy came up with.

http://www.rayrogers.com/blower.htm

Don,

I've got Sid's DVD on rebuilding Little Giants that you could borrow if you'd like.  He does cover pouring the bearings in it. 

 

Rob

Thanks Rob,

   I have the videos as well.   I have no problem with the main bearing and I have already purchased the babbitt and the mandrel from Sid.   It is the pulley bearing I have issue with.   I have resolved this problem though.   I am just sending the pulley to Sid since he has the mandrel for it and the ability to bore the center he will also turn the clutch surface.   I am hoping to start the dis-assembly this weekend.   I plan on photographing and possibly recording the process.   

Thanks Peacocok I was aware of that already.   I will most likely be sending my pulley out to Sid to get done.

I meant Interstate Steel

Call Sid, he has the connections that you need. Peter Sevren may be able to help you. His shop is up in Sunnyslope of Hatcher.

Is Peters shop right behind Industrial Metals?

Hey everyone,   I recently purchased a 25# Little Giant from azmike.   One of the main bearings was cracked so I need to re-pour.   I don't  think pouring the main bearings will be too difficult but while I have the machine down anyhow I thought I should re-pour the pulley bearing as well.   Is there anyone in the Phoenix are with experience doing this and also the facilities?   (i.e. a lathe big enough to chuck the pulley in to bore the I. D.)    I live in the west valley but travel all over the valley for my day job.   Any help is definitely appreciated.

Thanks,

Don McNeil

McNeil Custom Knives

I just set up my Habanero Forge 2 weeks ago and I can't believe how much I love it.   One of the best decisions I have made.    I had been using a coffee can forge using a design I found on the  net and I can't believe how much more efficient that it is.   It heats better and the steel seems to soak up the heat so I have more forging time per heat.   I also use a Charcoal forge but unless I run into a SHTF situation where propane is no longer available I don't know how much use the charcoal forge will see.

My 25# LG is a new style and was built in 1947 and shipped to a wholesaler in Seattle ,WA.   Star Machinery Company I believe...will have to check their brass plate when I get home.   Nothing else is known about it.   I bought it from azmike and he bought it from Brent Bailey.   I will be re-pouring the bearings soon as the top rear bearing was cracked in three places.   I am a not worried about pouring the main bearings in the least but am a little apprehensive about the pulley bearing.   I have Sids video and I completely understand the method... but my lathe is too small and while I do have a friend that has access to larger machines I would prefer someone who has knowledge of this process to help.   If you guys know of any machinists with experience doing these please let me know. 

I think you might be in for a surprise trying to use the DC motor for your hammer. First of all I have built a 75 watt solar panel which is less expensive than buying but it is used for charging a 12 volt battery bank. With that in mind you are going to need at least 6 of them wired in series to get that kind of voltage. ANd that is with them running at peak efficiency (pointed directly at full sunlight). For that motor to run at the rated RPM's you need 90 volts and in order to use it when it is dark or overcast you definitely should have batteries in the loop of which you will need a minimum of 7. Also very expensive. Perhaps you should use your solar to run other things in your shop and stick with AC for the hammer, Not trying to rain on your parade but give you some things to think about. I have had my solar generator running for 4 years now in my shop and it runs all of my angle grinders and small power tools with no problems at all. That is with my homemade 75 watt panel and two deep cycle batteries attached to a 100 watt power inverter.

Most granites will fracture at 1500 degrees. Play it safe use fire bricks or a castable refractory for the fire then use whatever stones you like to build the body of the forge.

I just bought a Canedy Otto blower and the front cover says to fill with oil to the air cock. I am assuming they mean until oil comes out of the drain cock that is lined up with where the air exhausts from but am not certain of this. Also I have found some people saying on the web to use non detergent oil in the blower...is this correct? Any suggestions on type or brand of oil? Any help that can be given will be greatly appreciated.

Don

Those look awesome Wolf.

Hello Raven I too am new here and I live in Waddell west of Phoenix. I am just finishing up building my first forge and am very interested in forging knives. I am trying to use clay that I dug from my pasture as the refractory. Not sure how well it will do but very curious too see.

Just wanted to introduce myself. My name is Don and I live in the Phoenix area. I am currently building my first forge for knife making...I have cut the bottom off of an old water heater tank and am using a 1" black iron pipe with 12 1/4" holes drilled in it for the tyuere. I am trying to find a good refractory cement recipe to line it with. making knives with a forge has been kind of a dream of mine for many years and I finally decided to do something about it. I am glad I found this forum as it seems like there is a lot of good information here. Any how thanks for listening...