drgas

 How do you figure out the weight in lbs of this English anvil?

I bought this Doringer D350 14" cold saw on Craigslist for $500. It cuts quickly, smoothly and very accurately. We made the rolling base from scrap on hand.

Has anyone tried using a portable cement mixer with tumbling media of some kind as a way of removing scale from forged pieces? We are getting tired of wire brushing and are looking for a cheap but effective way to "descale".

I haven't relined a forgemaster 5000, but i have relined my diamondback two burner, and it was easy. I also coated in itc to keep the flux damage down, seems to help it heat faster too. I'm sure blacksmith depot crries the re-line kits.

By the way, does anyone know how to resize photos for posting? The pix I posted are "small" filesize but are huge when I view the post. I don't know how to adjust the size for optimal viewing.

I have a 2003 Forgemaster 50000 2 burner forge. It has been getting a lot of use lately.
I have noticed that the front top of the door frame is burning away. Also the inside bottom and sides are pretty beat up.
I think I need a "liner kit"? Has anyone done this job on a Forgemaster or similar forge?

I found this MSC Taiwan built vertical bandsaw on the local Craiglist. Works great and cleaned up real nice. Has a mobile base and runs on 110v. MSC sent me the manual.

Thanks, I joined Etsy and joined the blacksmith team. Great stuff there.

My shop partner rebuilt a 50 lb LJ. It runs good but unless it is really hot and has been running a lot the darn thing keeps gently striking when you take your foot off the pedal. It's not the linkage. Any suggestions?

Jeff, I like your vertical accessory table design for the HF 4" saw. I have that same saw and it works fine.

Finally broke down and bought a new Peddinghaus 275 lb. A far cry from my Russian 110 lb Harbor Freight "starter anvil". The horn had black paint and grinder marks but it didn't take long to clean it up.

Will any old coarse rasp work as a hot rasp or do I need a farrier or "blackmsith" model?

I started with the Harbor Freight 110 lb Russian cast steel anvil. It took a lot of grinding and belt sanding to get the paint and machining marks off and the horn isn't true round but it didn't cost a lot either. I didn't want to sink a lot of $ in the hobby until I was sure I liked it. It has a fair ring and rebound but it is not as hardened as it should be. It will dent if you hit it with the edge of hammer that isn't well dressed as I surely did (and still do some). I don't think HF imports them anymore but they show up on Craigslist. The hardy hole is like 1 1/8 so you have to shim 1" hardy tools (darn if 2 wraps of duck tape didn't work for starters)

I bought a brand new Milwaukee 6116-30 12 amp today for $50 on Craigslist. It is a little heavier and more powerful than my HF grinders. I have a Hitachi that I like but the guys at the railing/fabricating shop next door to my shop swear by the Hilti's over Milwaukee or DeWalt.

I use a piece leather coated with oil.

Nope, I haven't met him. I joined the Blacksmith Guild of Virginia and I hope to meet more smith's in my area.

First time posting on I Forge Iron. I recently joined the group. I have been forging off and on for a couple of years but hope to spend more time with it as I am going to semi-retire at year's end.