DenK Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 I don't know the technical name for it,but does anyone know where there may be a design(BP) of the vise-type device that has a hardy hole on one end that attaches to the lower die of a power hammer? It's for using different hardy tools on an air hammer. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Fabricate a steel surround for the lower die out of stout stock, 1/2 x 1 or better, with 1/8 inch clearance on both axis. Tap a half inch hole on the left side to use as a clamping device, weld on a piece of square tubing that will be the hardy hole on the right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
divermike Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 here is an ugly one I whipped up for my tire hammer, just to give you an idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmike Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Nearly the same one on a video from Phoenixhammers :http://phoenixhammer.com/images/toolchange.mov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DenK Posted January 9, 2009 Author Share Posted January 9, 2009 Thanks guys...I should be able to handle that.....maybe! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 Hi all Now that I have figured out how to put photos on here I will add some of photos of what we use to hold stuff on the hammer. One photo is of a plate that we have around the bottom block,really useful for when punching and stuff as it is just like having a bench with a power hammer in the middle of it. The other one is of a tool holder that we use where everything is on a hinge that can be flicked in or out, stopper pads, swages, bottom tools etc. ......The second photo I can't find at present, must be on the system at work, I'll upload it tomorrow. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 That's a big hunk of hot steel! Please do post more pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNewman Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 I like the idea of your table. Is it set a little lower than the die? My hammer has a lower table/treadle guard which is useful for piling tooling on, but I think the higher table could be usefull for a lot of things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 (edited) Having worked with stuff like that, I can really appreciate what you've done. Wish I had that back in the day. Whacha got there, looks like a 750 Chambersburg? Good job! Oh, it's YOU! Probably a Massey then. Edited June 6, 2009 by nakedanvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james gonzalez Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Here is the one I made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 Awesome pictures guys thanks! keep em coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 Having a table plate around the bottom die like that is just like having a work bench with a power hammer in the middle of it. As we work you can slide tools off and on the die without having to lift them up and down, it is also useful for doing the kind of work that we are shown doing here as you can easily keep the forging up under the hammer without it getting thrown out onto the floor. It also allows us to get the job out to one side to pinch the forging better allowing the hammer to work a little bit at a time rather than trying to forge it all in one go. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 Finally got around to taking some photos of our pad and swage holders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 The pad holder holds the stopper pads. It is a flick in or out arrangement. there is a handle on the flick out arrangement to prevent hands needing to go under the dies. Yes nakedanvil it is a massey, only a 5cwt though. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 Forgemaster - That is a very simple and quick way of having your stop blocks of different sizes available during forging. Thanks for posting the pictures. JK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 (edited) You're a crafty guy, Forgemaster. I'm not seeing how the top half of your swage is attached. Is it on pins or what, I don't see the usual spring. Only 500? No offence, but that seems a little light for that work. Used to have a 500 lb Nazel that had a very nice personality, if you know what I mean. I probably would have used my 1500 for that job. You got only a slight "wasp-waist" so I guess it worked O.K. for ya. Really nice the way you have things set up. Edited June 8, 2009 by nakedanvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNewman Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Thanks for posting your set ups forgemaster. The stopper setup is a neat idea. I also like the idea of not having to pick work up off the floor when you drop it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Thanks Phil. Loads of good ideas, safer, faster, more efficient, easier on the back. All round good innovations. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 (edited) Nakedanvil yes the swages are on pins, known in Oz a german pin dies, I have no idea where the german originates from. Yes a 5 cwt is a bit small for that job but you can only use what you have got, and I've found that what ever you have you always end up taking on something too big, a mate of mine works a 40 cwt massey, even he says, "we'll get it near on dripping, get it out, bash hell out of it for 5 minutes, nah its too cold, it's stopped moving, put it back for another heat!" When I was an apprentice it was all too many men, a man to drive the crane, a man to drive the hammer, a smith to hang off the tongs, a monkey to hold the pad. We have cut that down to 2 men, the hammer driver holds the pendant for the crane and drives the hammer as well. The pads are held by the pad holder (named the Holgate after the monkey who held the pads when I was an apprentice) and the smith still swings off the tongs. From 4 mens wages to 2 for the same job, just a bit of clever thinking. Phil Added a photo for interest of the hammer I served my time on. 20cwt massey(1 ton). Started forging under this hammer at 17 years of age (2nd year apprentice) until about 23 years old. Yes it was already on that lean in 1982, is still leaning like that now. Still in use but not working anything like we used to work it. (And yes Johnny Holgate is still on the left side of the picture still doing what he was doing in 1982 when I was 17) Edited June 9, 2009 by forgemaster Added a picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Thanks again Phil. Perhaps if you have time you could make some sketches of the pad holder, stopper pads and similar tooling? It's hard to get the idea from pictures and I'd like to adapt them to my hammer if possible. Heck, I won't even make a joke about the tilted hammer being a slick trick to make drawing tapers easier. . . Oops! Thanks, Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbaknife Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 I just couldn't keep myself from joining this thread. I have a 50# LG. On the sides of the die holder on top of the sow block are flat spots. To this I attached a welded frame with a 1 inch "hardie hole" for the post of a spacer block table. It raises up and down according to the thickness of the spacer or - whatever. I use this for drawing out my knife blades, tapering distally, drawing out tangs, forging damascus square for twisting, etc. Has unlimited uses. Tapped to recieve 3/8" socket head screws. The 1/4" bolt keeps the space from walking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Well, that is timely. I'm just getting my "new" 50# LG up and running though I have to say after drilling and tapping a couple holes I'm not too keen on doing it again. On the other hand that's a slick tool holder and I feel it's not too much to drill and tap a couple more holes in such a good cause. Thanks. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 KBAKNIFE:Looks pretty cool guy. These are the ideas I like to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Dang you, Forgemaster! Now you're gettin my taster up for a big hammer again! Just sold a nice 750 lb Nazel last year too. It had a 15,000 lb anvil too. Was savin it for my retirement too. Decided (in a fit of melancholy no doubt) to sell it. Dang you, Forgemaster! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNewman Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 I made a swage a few weeks ago that registration of the top and bottom is critical so I put pins in it as well as a spring. After looking at your pictures Forgemaster I am thinking I should have skipped the spring. I have a larger version of the same shape to pin together tomorrow I am definetly skipping the spring. I also have about 70-100 pinned swages that I got with my hammer that have a handle on them for a helper. I was going to cut the handles off and add springs to them as I needed them because I don't have a helper to hold the handle. But I am now thinking of just adding a shank to them. I am not sure it will work with the ball swages though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.