RainsFire

Gas welding specific??

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So, I want to start doing damascus type work, and my current gas forge can't get hot enough.

I'm guessing that a blown burner will be my best bet, as I can control more and get the most heat, but I was wondering if using veggie oil would actually work? I've heard it has plenty of btu's, but is it clean enough for a good weld? will I want a vertical forge design? and what's the benifit of that?

anyway, what I'm wondering is, what are the most important things in building a forge specifically for welding, if you have a design that works please describe it :)

thanks everyone.

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There are lots of guys with "designs" out there for oil burning forges and melters. What I haven't seen is an actual design drawn out.

One fellow in our club uses an oil furnace burner in his forge but he lives on Kodiak Isle and I haven't seen it so I can't say how it works.

Frosty

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I would think the main drawback with any oil, veggie or motor, forge is how you are going to colect and store the oil. The product might be 'free' for the taking , but you have to invest in storage tanks, vacume pumps, filters, plus the cost and time of driving around town getting the stuff.
As to how clean it is, you can forge weld in coal, and that dirtiest burning stuff out there so why would there be a problem?

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Look here http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/oilburners10.html there's a plan on the page. I haven't actually built one yet, but they guy claims it can melt steel. I suppose you would build a forge around it the same way you would build a gas forge.


Has he actually drawn it up? I haven't looked at his pages in quite a while.

You can search oil burners, waste oil burners, etc. there is a lot of material out there but a LOT of it is speculative. (to use a polite term)

Let us know what you find.

Frosty

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Okay, he hasn't really made something better than what he was doing a few years ago. It's a really crude design, it works though, sort of. A neighbor of mine used to fire pottery in a home made kiln burning diesel. He used a shop vac for the air and an old cast iron frying pan to vaporize the oil drip. He'd heat the pan till diesel would flash vaporize on contact, start the blower on low and start the diesel drip. Crude as can be but it'd melt cone 12 pottery if you weren't careful, iron and steel were nothing to it.

Check out Babington burners, they work very well, much, much, better than just sticking a pipe in a propane gun burner and lighting it off. Here are a few links and there are lots more sites for the searching. Also a Babington isn't the only reasonably efficient design.

Patent 3,425,058 - Robert S. Babington, Inventor. The next link is to Google patents and has the patent drawings, etc.

3,425,058 - Google Patents

Babington Burner

Babington Oil Burner HOWTO

Frosty

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Consider where the forge will be located. I have one T-Rex and in the standard 350 ci. volume forge it will darn near smelt(not the fish). I have had so many things tugging at me professionally, personally and healthily(I made up that word) that I stalled out on the Twin Shorty Crossfire Articulated Forge. If it stays somewhat unseasonably warm next week, I plan to get out in the garage to weld it up.

I never feel comfortable with liquid fired implements indoors; shop, garage, attached or not-one spill and poof. I have been on fire-you don't want to be. So, I strongly endorse LP(which of course is only liquid when contained).

Rex's hybrids are for real- optomised laminar flow and mixing. Frosty knows the real details there- I think he will agree that there are genuine qualities to be had with Hybrid Burners, I think so.mt

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