Wood Carving Knives

[Quenchcrack]

There is not a lot of smithing involved in these little boogers but they are fun. It is a real challenge to shape the blade without burning it or griding it off center. I forge them from O1 tool steel, quench into canola oil, temper by color in the dragons breath. The wood in these was purchased from Woodcraft at an Odds and Ends sale. The dark figured wood is Cocobolo and the muddy brown wood (top knife) is actually ebony. Woodcraft had it stained black on the outside of the block but inside it was this brown stuff. Anyway, the good thing about these woods is that they are so hard, you can fine sand them (220 grit) and take a fine steel wool pad and polish then to a nice shine. I then finish then with paste wax. The blades are tricky. I forge thick and grind thin but finish the flat bevel on a Norton India Stone to make sure I don't burn it. These are sharper than razor blades and just melt through basswood.

Edited November 23, 2008 by Quenchcrack

[Donnie]

Fine job, Quenchcrack. I love small blades of any kind.

[Robert Mayo]

Nice job on them little fellows i'm shure they will do a great job for there intended purpose.

Bob

[ocrickard]

These knives look well made and unique; good job. I really like the one on the bottom, the handle looks especially nice.
I've never used knives like these for carving -- I'll have to make one and give it a try. Maybe I would finally carve something better than my current masterpiece, I call it "pointed stick," and yes, it's a pointed stick.
-Oliver

[Quenchcrack]

Just for those who want to make one: I use 1/4" O1 bought from an industrial supply as "drill rod". Get a 1"x1"x6" piece of nice wood, drill a 1/4" hole in one end to a depth of about 2". Drill a 1/16" hole in from the side to intersect the 1/4" hole. Forge and heat treat the blade, clean up the shank and put 2-ton epoxy all over the shank. Scoop up what is left of the epoxy and put it down the hole. The 1/16" hole lets the air out and lets the blade slide in smoothly. When it hardens, shape the handle, finish grind the blade (flat grind only or it will not carve good). Remember that a thin blade carves best so forge thick, grind thin. Hmmmm....I smell a blueprint......

[craig]

Very nice !!
I had a similar project in mind...small carving tools out of haybine tines...I only made one so far just to test it out. It works ok, but sure isn't as pretty as those knives :)

[bigfootnampa]

They look nice but personally I would be loath to use cocobolo for handles. Cocobolo is one of the most toxic wood species and commonly causes allergic reactions. That's a shame as it is so very pretty. I read about a flute maker who brought a whole logs worth of billets back to NYC when he came home from a Cuban vacation. The first flute he made ruined the career of a promising young flutist... he had such a bad reaction that he had to give up flute playing altogether! After that the flute turner made police nightsticks of the rest of his expensive cocobolo log!

All of the rosewood species are prone to cause allergies but cocobolo is particularly likely to do so.

[Quenchcrack]

Bigfoot, yes, I have heard cocobolo is one of the worst. Several years ago I made some carving knives using Bolivian rosewood. Like to ate me up. I had red rashes all over my face, arms and chest. I still have the remnant of that block and won't use it again. The cocobolo did not affect me at all but I used a dust mask and it was not as hot and humid when I was working with it. I may try the man-made stuff again.

[IronPuppet]

Looks like "chip carving" knives, to me. Close to a Japanese or German carving knife (I have one).

You have done a nice job, although I think your handles are too stout closer to the blade. I think they look chunky and could wind up getting in the way of intricate work.

Check these out from Lee Valley, I have "E":


Here is some chip carving to inspire you to try.



Christopher

Edited November 25, 2008 by IronPuppet
rented fingers

[Quenchcrack]

I own all of those knives. They are in a drawer somewhere. The handles are too small and they make your hand cramp after long periods of use. Yeah, I might shave them down a bit close to the blade. However, I have made many of them and not had to thin them because they interfere with fine work. I have a few detail knives I use for that.

[TASMITH]

Good job on the carving knives Quenchcrack.
Although I don't normally make knives, I have done so in the past. I used to carve decorative decoys and made all my own carving knives. Like you, my carving knives are in a box somewhere as I haven't done any carving for a number of years now. The ones pictured in this post are some i use in the shop now. They are all made from High Speed Steel (Lathe turning bits). On the right side of the picture is a bit that I use for my stock. Next to that are the blanks that are made from the bit before stock removal and finishing.
It is challenging to make knives from this material due to the fact they have to be carefully preheated in steps to get them to forging temp. Also they have an extremely narrow range of heat to work in. Overheat and the bits just crumble, and it cannot be forged under 1500 deg. F as they are very red short!

After you get them made however they are outstanding for carving. They take a razor edge and will stand up for a very long time.Interesting little devils to try and forge though but well worth the effort.:o

[Quenchcrack]

TASMITH, nice knives! What did you use for the ferrules? I have never used ferrule on my carving knives but it looks interesting.

[TASMITH]

Simple little thing for the ferrules. They are the light gauge brass ones that are used with rubber hoses to crimp on the hose after the nozzle or whatever has been inserted.
Makes a big difference in holding the tang of the knife in place without splitting out the wood when you are taking heavy cuts.
Terry

[TASMITH]

By the way thanks for the comment on the knives. Like I said the steel is hard to work with but the benefits are tremendous. I use them to de-burr the inside of pipe after cutting and even trimming light gauge metal.Hold an edge forever.

[Quenchcrack]

I have always left about 1/4" of wood between the blade shank and the OD of the handle. I always use 2 ton epoxy to hold the shank in the hole. I have not had any blades break out yet but the use of the ferrule would allow the wood to be thinner near the blade.