angiolino Posted November 3 Share Posted November 3 Hi, I saw a tool online that I would like to make to remove roots from the ground. It's like a lever, a crowbar, and it's used like a spade. I think it's very versatile. Unfortunately, it's very expensive, so I would have to make it with recycled materials. Could you give me some useful advice? Thanks, regards Tool dimensions: Total height 1385mm. Blade width at widest point: 170mm Blade height 245mm Handle: 225mm https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1595/0595/files/Theslammertool_Operating_manual_v4_-_WEB_compressed.pdf?38 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 3 Share Posted November 3 Hi Angiolino, good to see you posting. A home built "slammer" should be a pretty basic build. It is just a slide hammer with a cutting edge on the business end. Once you decide how long to make it, use stout tubing "sleave" on the lower half that connects to the blade and a solid bar for the slide weight or "hammer". I'd make the hammer rod long enough it impacts the top of the blade directly so all the sleave does is guide the hammer and provide enough strength you can use it to pry roots out. Looking at their site I see their "noise vibration damper" is a piece of wood doweling where the hammer impacts the top of the blade rod. I'd be awfully tempted to find something better as in more rigid and impact resistant. I think I'd thread the end of the hammer rod and screw a steel hammer on the end that is wider than the rod itself. It would take the impact rather than the rod so it it became mushroomed you ca just unscrew and replace it. It would also provide a hard stop for the upstroke so you can hammer the blade out of the ground, stump, roots, etc. if it gets stuck. I'd do something similar for the rod the blade connects to, another heavier piece of steel tapped so the hammer impacts it rather than the rod itself. Tap the "anvils" with a fine pitch BOTTOM TAP. This will let the threaded rod bottom out in the hole so the threads only hold the anvils in place and do NOT take impact. I'd probably dig into my leaf springs for the blade and maybe make the rod that connects it to the sleave forked so the blade rests in a "saddle" in the rod and screws in place. The sleave would need a cap so the hammer couldn't just pull out, and provide an upper anvil so you could hammer the blade out if stuck. It needs to be reasonably strong and removable so I'd thread the outside of the sleave for at least an inch or two. The cap would be tapped to match and have a through hole the hammer rod could slide through easily but the "anvil" on the end wouldn't. I don't think I'd make the sleave any heavier than necessary than to resist bending. The heavier the sleave the more energy it will absorb on impact from the hammer to advance and cut roots, etc. You want the weight in the hammer rod where the energy YOU put into it will work for you. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angiolino Posted November 4 Author Share Posted November 4 thanks for your precious advice sorry if I bothered you thanks 1000 pin puller?? Slide Sledge Slide Sledge '' '' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 4 Share Posted November 4 You're never any trouble Angiolino, I like helping with your projects. That's a slide hammer, there are many brands here, I don't know about Italy or what import taxes are like. The prices on the side sledge scare me even though I know it's not in dollars US. This one shows interchangeable bits like I was talking about. The real question here is, can you afford to buy one or is it worth the effort to make one. Making slide hammers is easy enough but it's really easy to make the sliding section too heavy. Ask anybody who's helped me use my fence post driver and it doesn't really drive faster than the one I borrowed which weighs maybe 1/4 as much. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angiolino Posted November 5 Author Share Posted November 5 thanks sorry I went off topic I translated the sentences that tool popped up going back to the "Slammer, could you kindly make a drawing with reference measurements, of how you would build it, with explanations. sorry if I insist and bother you sometimes I'm boring. thanks sorry if I bothered you regards Pry Bar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 6 Share Posted November 6 I'll be happy to Angiolino but it'll take me a little time. Once I started making sketches I started noticing what in my mind's eye needed changing and I do that on paper. I think I'll have a couple different ways to make one that will work by tomorrow. Heck, using a wood cushion between ram and anvil is starting to make sense. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angiolino Posted November 6 Author Share Posted November 6 thank you sorry if I disturbed you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted November 7 Share Posted November 7 For the price they are charging here it's definitely worth it to make your own. I used a piece of barbell for the hammer. It already had a knurled section to aid in getting a good grip. I had a length of thin walled tubing with the needed diameter that was reduced on one end so that it could be nested inside another piece of tubing. After inserting the barbell into the tubing on the reduced end I ran a bead of weld around barbell that protruded from the other end. That prevents the hammer from being removed from the tubing. Lastly I ground a portion of some solid round stock to the right diameter, inserted it into the larger end of the tubing and welded it in place. I used short section I cut off an S cam from a semi trailer, but any medium carbon steel should work fine for the anvil side of the tool. However, there is another alternative that is already closer to what you want. Do a search for "Slide Hammer Tire Bead Breaker." Those tend to be more reasonably priced, longer, and heavier than the slide hammer like the one you showed above. All you would have to do is replace or reshape the end of the tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 7 Share Posted November 7 I've made a few sketches and still haven't come up with one as multiple use as I'd want myself. However if the only thing I wanted it for was cutting roots, breaking rocks, concrete, etc. Pick one. I think I'd weld the blade to a round cap a minimum 1/2" (13-14mm) thick and weld that to the end of the pipe I was using for the sleave. The length of the pipe/sleave would be a comfortable length for me. The rod would be the largest length of steel bar that would fit and slide freely in the sleave maybe 2 hands longer. The more I think about a root cutter slide hammer the simpler it gets. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angiolino Posted November 8 Author Share Posted November 8 thank you, forgive me if I bothered you, I have to think about it and find the right materials, yes as you say I need it for heavy work in the countryside thanks https://www.amazon.com/Smarkey-Cutting-Digging-Tamping-Remover/dp/B0C38PT63M https://www.amazon.com/Smarkey-Cutting-Bamboo-Remover-Digging/dp/B0D1P5RN8N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 8 Share Posted November 8 That's simpler than what I've come up with so far and should be easy enough to make. Making interchangeable blades might be an issue if you build one like it but shouldn't be too hard. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angiolino Posted November 9 Author Share Posted November 9 Thanks, I await advice and suggestions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angiolino Posted November 10 Author Share Posted November 10 Specifications Ram Bar Length: 39.4" (1 m) Bead-Breaking Casing Length: 39.4" (1 m) Total Length: 47.2" (1200 mm) Material: Cast Steel Item Weight: 22.0 lbs (10 kg) Lunghezza barra di spinta: 39,4" (1 m) Lunghezza della carcassa stallonatrice: 39,4" (1 m) Lunghezza totale: 47,2" (1200 mm) Slide Hammer Bead Breaker?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 10 Share Posted November 10 That should work Angiolino. I apologize for not posting a pic of what I was thinking of, I get sidetracked too easily. One word of advice though, do NOT make it so long as you have to lift the hammer above your shoulders. The bead breaker in the above video is too long after he shortened it. Using tools that high can and eventually will do damage to your shoulders. He also would have broken the tire beads much more easily if the wheel rim was on something solid as you can see when he stood on the rim and compressed the bottom side of the tire. The spring action of compressing the tire absorbed lots of the hammer's impact energy. Springy roots will do the same thing, having something you can wedge under the root when you cut it will help a lot. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angiolino Posted November 11 Author Share Posted November 11 thank you for your teachings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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