Davor Posted August 30 Share Posted August 30 Rhino head, not many pictures of the process. And I will be making some sort of a backplate. Second horn (more of a hint of a horn) is a bit squished, no way around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott NC Posted September 2 Share Posted September 2 I like it very much. It would make a fine cane handle or hooks to hang things on, with a little modification. A hippo would be cool, too. I might try a walrus someday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted September 2 Share Posted September 2 Nice. I maybe steal your idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 2 Share Posted September 2 I like it Davor, well done. Making the second horn is only a matter of leaving the steel when you set it down for the first horn and jaw. Basically flip the bar over after you do the set down for the nasal horn and leaving a LITTLE for the second horn off a rounded edge of the anvil on the 1st horn side drive it down a LITTLE. Then leave the resulting step a bit over the far rounded edge (IF you have to walk to the far side of the anvil or spin it around!) Set it down. This leaves you a high spot in the bar behind the nasal horn and in front of the "head." It's a good thing to practice with modeling clay, (plasticine) before taking it to the fire and anvil. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojo Pedro Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 Nice. Cool imagination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 If you need more material at the nasal horn area you could also upset the bar there before starting any other work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davor Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 Thanks guys. I made a simple backplate and ground a bit at the bottom to make the mouth look better. Welded from the back side so the weld is not visible. Bees wax finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 Looks good Davor. Smart job welding from the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shainarue Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 That's a cool idea! Another use for the character heads I also like that you thought to weld from the back. It looks so crisp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davor Posted September 5 Author Share Posted September 5 Thanks guys I've been thinking about it for a week before I started hammering. And now Frosty got me thinking about that second horn and when I find the time I have to give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 5 Share Posted September 5 There are other ways to isolate material for the second horn. Doing the set downs on a horn or a sharpish bottom fuller would be another probably better method. As a win win you might have to make or buy a tool or two. The second horns are usually much smaller than the nasal horn though there is a wide range in shapes and size. It was fun just looking at images and I learned there is NO one way to make a "realistic" representation of a rhino. Rhinos have a muzzle, so extending it a little before cutting the mouth would make a little better representation. I especially like brainstorming things here. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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