Pigsticker Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 ¹Hello. Hope you are all well. I've got a couple of quick questions for the person who knows and isn't stuck on grumpy. ( or can't control it) 1 To forge how do I hold a pice of round nearly welded, started at 2" round cable, that is only about 4" long. I have a set of tongs and the v on the tips that gets a little smaller or bigger. I also have an 16-18" channel locks but they don't go far enough in on my little Wal-Mart forge. I'm forging on a railroad so space is limited. 2if I can see a very slightlyunwelded middle in a piece of cable I'm working on that's round, I can still forge it out right? Pre hardened can always be improved right? Bad pictures in next post if I can figure it out 3 is there a way to tell if cable has been forged enough? They individual strands have melted, so what now. Someone told me about refining a weld but that wasn't on cable. I've heard folding a piece of cable once welded will harm the figure. I don't want to hammer it plain.. how can I tell when cable is gone? I erased about 13" of 18" trying g to Include big strands only to unwrap my welding 4 easiest one. What should Damascus look like? Ive got black blades with white figure stripes, I've got shiny silver blades with blue inside. Is there a most durable color in the etching I'm looking for? Everybody has liked both but I'm not sure if my shiny silver blades are just black ones stripped of etch. Etch is long vinegar with a boil at the end to set it. Theyve all started the black color Thanks if youre helping, I'm American, not 8 and just a poor writer (state educated vs parochial). Unless you're asking about Burundi. Always move in a circle because it never ends Pig S Ticker When I said blades started black I meant after a Lil etch in vinegar. It was obviously steel color in very beginning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 Boy, you haven't changed a lick have you? Have you ever wondered why so many people you talk to are "stuck on grumpy"? This is the second time you've asked almost exactly the same question. I LIKE not being grumpy so this is all I have to say to you, I don't need the frustration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 On cable, I weld on a piece of rod as a handle till it is forged to a shape I can hold with tongs. (Tho I now have tongs that could hold the 1"+ cable I use for it. ) i still weld on a handle it is just easier to. . Handle. Twist tight and Flux each welding heat until it is starting to consolidate. You will start getting a clue when that is by the sound under the hammer. Unconsolidated cable is soft. Consolidated cable will start to ting like bar stock. If you have unconsolidated cable, not sure, depends on conditions and your ability if you can get it consolidated. I use thick enough stock to make the knife I am going for. If you want to cut, stack and reforge to get more material just make ture it is all clean and fluxed. Pattern will vary. As far as etching I don't know what results you are getting, just know my own experiences. After etch the blade needs scrubbed neutralized and sanded with fine sandpaper if you really want to see the pattern. Then apply oil. Dunno how leaving on the etch "blackness" would work as I havnt done it. This is only a short response from someone who doesn't make blades often but has made some from cable. Please be respectful and mindful of people on here. Do your best to ask well stated and thought out questions and take the time to make it readable to get respectable well thought out answers. Do your part and others will do theirs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted August 13 Author Share Posted August 13 Thank you for your quick and wise words. 1 I'm not welder literate, no access to one and cant afford to spend on mig etc. I'm now able to forge weld corners from still braided but loose wire. Woohoo. All that said, any ideas? Ive got to be able to forge it ( hold while hammering). Not too long a time. Just wanna finish as good as possible Mÿ questions aren't fired off at the expense of accuracy, I'd wait a week for each posting if anything better came out, I got some big issues. Thanks much for your response Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Well, again, my experiences. I have heard of people using hose clamps or wire to hold the ends tight. As for something to hold it, you need to make something or find it or figure it out. No easy answers here other than me helping with what I have worked towards and know. With enough ingenuity there are always simple solutions to problems. I've worked hard to get where I am and still am not top tier nor bottom but I Always have appreciation hearing and learning simple solutions to more complex issues. Never any shame in making friends and asking for their help while you offer up something to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted August 13 Author Share Posted August 13 How do you know if a piece is burnt til it will just unwrap the rest. I notice it often occurs when it gets a darker shiny look. Shouldn't a "well" welded cable not unwrap around the main cables when forgewelding or is the first forge weld just to make the cable internally tacky. It pulls it apart like I never forge welded it to sting. ( before any forging) I got it to sticklast time but that was after losing about 13 imches off a tube of metal I swear I heard a tink from when hot on the anvil.or does that sound like too little heat? I got my ends to "stick' with a big 20 oxz ball peen Tx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Sounds like you're trying to forge weld it on the anvil face which spreads it sideways when you hit it on top so it undoes much of the consolidation you need to do before it starts welding. You need to forge weld cable in a swage or V block and better still a top swage or V. A swage of V bottom tool prevents cable from spreading sideways when you hit it. A V actually compresses the strands towards the center under the hammer and is my preference. Angle iron makes a fine V block but without an arc welder attaching it to something solid V up or two pieces welded to a plate side by side to form the V is the trick and will take some problem solving on your part. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted August 13 Author Share Posted August 13 I've got 2 heavy swages 5" ones now. I thought it was one size fits all but I keep hitting the swage with my hammer on edge of interior recession which I know is bad. Sometimes I throw surprise heavy strikes,, and the cable mashed. To me I think it should be not as deep. It does fine for 2" cable but it seems useless when I get ant smaller than 1.75". Now it's OK. I can weld til the cows come home but am baffled how strands can undo welded stuff Unwrapping is deadly over here. The big strands are welded together,but the cable isn't . Cable has been pretty easy overall once I convinced myself forge temp has nothing to do with the metals heat. I pryed up a manhole cover with one of my knifes and zero problems. (A thin slicer) once cable hits a point it won't twist together, hammer or crush, it only unwinds. How can I spot this to just cut it off and save 6-10 rounds in the forge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted August 13 Author Share Posted August 13 I'm using my slight ball peen so the hammer head isn't huge.. I think I want as big and lightweight head is possible., right? I can't figure how to upload a pic of my dark Damascus and knives are gone. Got pics on phone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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