How to erase forge weld seam on an Axe

[lshindel]

I've been making axes for several years now and i'm still unable to remove/cover up the weld seam created on the top and bottom of an axe head.  I have no problems welding, It's just that pesky seam.  Now I can use an gas or electric welder to over the seam but I would love to do it in the forge.  I've seen original axe heads from the 17-1800's and they all have a weld seam.  Oh, I have no issues welding pattern welded knives. 

here's what I've tried...

rounded swage block,

cross peen ect to

[Charles R. Stevens]

“Blacksmiths use files” to quote a story TP tells.

have you tried grinding out the surface weld seams? Grinding wheels have been in use for centuries. Now like the pattern welded blades you make, if you use a different steel for the eye and bit you will see the difference in appearance between finishes.
you can always grind  before you finish drawing out or before you begin normalizing in preparation to heat treat for that “rustic” look. 

[lshindel]

The bar stock I'm using to create the axe's has a bit of a rounded off chamfered edge.  I've been trying to hammer that in, to cover it up.  what your saying is grind it flat.   that makes sense. 

My next project I'll grind the edges of the bar stock flat and remove the camfer then weld.

thanks Charles.

[Steve Sells]

try grinding it off after the weld

[Frosty]

If you aren't scarfing the joints, visible weld seams are what you deserve.  Don't skip steps.

Trying to fold and weld as milled bar stock "with the chamfered edges" is not only guaranteeing visible joins it significantly risking inclusions.

Scarf the joints and pol eye in the preform before folding it, then all you need do is clean, flux and weld. With a little GOOD practice you can make seamless axe heads. Doing it the way you are you'll need to grind about the thickness of the parent stock from all the joins unless you're make inclusions in which case grind it till it's gone or scrap.

Check out some of Jennifer (JPL) videos available on IFI. I don't do it that way but Jennifer's videos have excellent production standards so you can see every detail and she maintains a running description of how and why.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Charles R. Stevens]

Let’s make sure we are on the same page, you are using the factory edge lengthwise of the joint? If this is the case then as frosty daisy champ her the edge (and the bit if your doing a tomahawk or battle axe)

[anvil]

My solution is to take a good deep non sparking welding heat with any good flux and very lightly with a 1-1/2# or so hammer and, if its a top seam, lightly chamfer the edges, then forge the chamfers back out. You are really moving a very little material, then moving it back. Most of the time, this is enough to remove the seam. Wire brush after reaching your welding heat, then forge is pretty critical too. To be clear, this is done after you do your initial problem and need to heal the seam deal.

[lshindel]

Thanks to everyone for your thoughtful replies.