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Power hammer technique


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How would you go about forging a wedge shape say like on a froe with flat dies?  I’ve made a flatter and various fullers and am experimenting. Once I get something out of square I struggle with it jumping around.  Still training my foot to let off the pedal it’s gotten interesting a time or two. 

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How much of a wedge? I’m still developing my skills with the power hammer, but I’ve gotten to about 10~15degrees before I have problems with the flatter kicking out too hard. My hammer hits pretty fast, so when the flatter kicks out, I end up with a marred surface. What struggles are you having?

Look forward to what the more experienced have for advice…

Keep it fun,

David

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I start the taper (wedge) with the edges of the dies, then come back with the flatter to smooth it out. For really shallow angle on thinner items, I have used my large flatter offset from the forging to forge in the angle, but I’m not sure that’s best practice. 


I have two flatters currently. One is maybe 2x3” with about a 3/4” diameter ridge in the top. The other (big one) is about the same size as the dies on the hammer with maybe a 4” radius. Just cut a slab off the side of a large piece of 1050 round stock. I really prefer using the big one, but it doesn’t fit the piece many times.

Keep it fun,

David

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I use the cross peen on my hand hammer to draw a taper for a froe or a knife. Drawing dies ( like a rounded crosspeen) would work for your hammer. They are a good all around set of dies, but I prefer flat dies as my daily driver 25# lil giant dies.

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You can draw the taper with the flat dies edges, but have to work in sections and it gets frustrating. You can make a taper die to help. For parts that I have to taper to the same angle and profile every time I use a die like this. The first pass will banana badly, straighten this before continuing. Once you have good contact with the die it will remain straight.

F4020D51-0A9E-48E0-B195-AF8704F6174D.jpeg

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