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Posted

How would you go about forging a wedge shape say like on a froe with flat dies?  I’ve made a flatter and various fullers and am experimenting. Once I get something out of square I struggle with it jumping around.  Still training my foot to let off the pedal it’s gotten interesting a time or two. 

Posted

How much of a wedge? I’m still developing my skills with the power hammer, but I’ve gotten to about 10~15degrees before I have problems with the flatter kicking out too hard. My hammer hits pretty fast, so when the flatter kicks out, I end up with a marred surface. What struggles are you having?

Look forward to what the more experienced have for advice…

Keep it fun,

David

Posted

So David you are using a flatter to do it?   I have trouble with the flatter handle jerking in my hand and bending. 

Posted

I start the taper (wedge) with the edges of the dies, then come back with the flatter to smooth it out. For really shallow angle on thinner items, I have used my large flatter offset from the forging to forge in the angle, but I’m not sure that’s best practice. 


I have two flatters currently. One is maybe 2x3” with about a 3/4” diameter ridge in the top. The other (big one) is about the same size as the dies on the hammer with maybe a 4” radius. Just cut a slab off the side of a large piece of 1050 round stock. I really prefer using the big one, but it doesn’t fit the piece many times.

Keep it fun,

David

Posted

I’m using an Anyang 106 self contained hammer. I absolutely love the hammer, but it’s not good for single hits. (Or at least I’m not good at making single hard hits with it.)

Momatt, what are you using?

David

Posted

I just got a 70 pound tire hammer it’s the clay Spencer type but with the newer modifications 8 inch anvil and heavier ram. I have no experience to compare it to but wow opens up new avenues compared to a hammer! 

Posted

I use the cross peen on my hand hammer to draw a taper for a froe or a knife. Drawing dies ( like a rounded crosspeen) would work for your hammer. They are a good all around set of dies, but I prefer flat dies as my daily driver 25# lil giant dies.

Posted

You can draw the taper with the flat dies edges, but have to work in sections and it gets frustrating. You can make a taper die to help. For parts that I have to taper to the same angle and profile every time I use a die like this. The first pass will banana badly, straighten this before continuing. Once you have good contact with the die it will remain straight.

F4020D51-0A9E-48E0-B195-AF8704F6174D.jpeg

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

It has a handle and can be used either top or bottom. I find roughing with the taper block on the bottom to work best with heavy initial blows, but for smoothing it works best as a top tool

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