Damaging anvil face?

[natkova]

Can working cold on anvil dent anvil damage it a bit.
i wanted to straighten one plate it had some curve, and i noticed like tiny dent from it.

And i stopped will do it again in forge some other time.

Reason i wanted to do this is becasue i want plate that will protect anvil from chiseling drifting etc while you could go trough hot steel and damage anvil.

Ironicaly i think i damaged a bit, like hair thickness.

Now i see its called hardy plate , but iam plaing to make it U shape so  you can move it across anvil.

 

[JHCC]

What you describe is usually called a saddle plate or something like that. I use one all the time, especially when chiseling under the treadle hammer.

In response to the general question, it all depends on how hard your anvil face is and how hard you hit it (and with what). Some anvils are harder than others; the softer ones will dent more easily.

[Frosty]

That depends on what kind of steel the plate is made of and how good your anvil is. I see John and I are replying at the same time.

We call what you describe as a saddle or chisel plate, one for punching holes is a bolster plate. I have a piece of 5/16" mild steel plate I keep within reach if I'm using a top cut or chisel, if it finally gets too warped to stay put I might lay it crown up and smack it with a hammer to flatten it but I'm more likely to replace it with. If it warps too much too quickly I'd use thicker plate for the next one.

Frosty The Lucky.

[natkova]

 
I saw it here.

[anvil]

Yup, thats how it works, and a good habit to have. 

When straightening or taking the bow out is different than cutting. You don't need a plate underneath. Hit the high point hard enough to straighten it but not hard enough to forge it. Straightening takes out the bow, forging changes the crossection meaning the thickness changes. 

When punching holes hot, punch from one side with only your anvil underneath til it bottoms out, then turn it over and you can see where you punched. Center this over the pritchel hole or a plate with different sized holes, as was described above and back punch to remove the "button".  

[Shainarue]

Others have already answered but I'll tack on to suggest you might be able to straighten that plate by putting it in the vice and squeezing it straight. Depends on how thick it is and what kind of steel. Like Frosty, I use a piece of mild steel for my cutting plate - although mine is only 1/4" (6-7mm).

[natkova]

Well I made it it's still kinda jumpy but when you work with hot chisel and some holdfast I hope it won't jump that much.

This new fuller helped a lot to bend it in vise.

I didn't had sharp corner on bend so I used fuller to bend it more .

 

I sandes a little bit face of anvil and horn

[Glenn]

A chain, secured on one end and with a weight on the other, thrown across the work piece will help some.

Sharp corners are improved with the metal heated or HOT.  The metal bends a lot easier that way.  Follow that with a hammer to improve the sharpness.

[natkova]

I forgot to mentioned I have that build in

I did heated it , worked it hot, but from irregularities I think I will buy thicker  plate and one which does not have curves , I think there is risk denting anvil with this one even grinded and flattened .

I will use that plate fro other projects too.

Edited January 20, 2023 by Mod30
Excessive quote removed.

[anvil]

I don't use a chain or a hold fast. They get in the way and take up time and space. I did use them in the past but with experience, they are not needed. 

[FlatLiner]

I have a chain hold fast that I can move between anvils or take off easily if I know I won't be using it. The way my anvil stands are made allows me to have a simple hook on the end of the chain that hooks to the anvil stand and then you just throw the weighted end over the anvil when in use. It also allows for multiple possible positions on the face of the anvil. After your done using it the hooked end simply falls off the anvil stand when the weight is brought back over the anvil. The hold fast can then be kicked under the stand, thrown in a corner, on a work bench or anywhere else that is convenient and out of the way.

[lary]

It seems I mostly use it as a cup warmer. I welded angle iron onto the plate so it would saddle the anvil and not move around much.

[natkova]

Can dent in steel  and some humps (saddle part) damage anvil?

 

[Goods]

The softer material will deform first. So, as long as you saddle is mild steel, you should have nothing to worry about.

Keep it fun,

David

[natkova]

On 1/25/2023 at 1:23 AM, Goods said:

The softer material will deform first. So, as long as you saddle is mild steel, you should have nothing to worry about.

Keep it fun,

David

Ian not sure if it is mild steel because it's is old stove plate .

[Goods]

You could always anneal it. It would work harden over time, but by then the underside should match the surface of the anvil…

Keep it fun,

David 

[George N. M.]

Nat, if it is what we would call a "stove lid", round with a recess to use a stove lifter to remove it when hot, it is likely cast iron rather than steel.  Try a spark test.

GNM

[Frosty]

Post a picture Nat, stove parts aren't usually good blacksmithing tools or stock. 

Frosty The Lucky.

[natkova]

On 1/26/2023 at 7:59 PM, Frosty said:

Post a picture Nat, stove parts aren't usually good blacksmithing tools or stock. 

This plate under chain