Welded hardy stems or posts?

[natkova]

One question can hardy hole shafts be made out of square pipe?

I mean shaft part so you weld something to it, like chisel etc?

Why it does have to be full steel?

 

[JHCC]

Square pipe is just fine, as is angle iron or a piece of flat bar that goes corner-to-corner in the hardy hole. Basically, anything that’s robust enough for the job at hand and keeps the tool strongly in place is acceptable.

I’ve welded up many tools with stems made from 1” schedule 40 pipe forged square.  This is almost exactly the right size for the 7/8” hardy holes on my Mousehole (aka The Undisputed King of Anvils) and the EBUA

I think people tend to think of hardy tool stems as being necessarily solid because hardy tools for years were all forged from solid bars rather than welded. That’s fine, and it’s still a good way to make tools. However, welded tools can be just as functional, and there’s no practical reason not to use them. 

[Glenn]

Use a piece of plate as the hardie tool base with anything that fits into the hardie hole as a post to keep the tool from turning.  A piece of flat bar welded diagonally to the base plate will work, as will angle iron, square tubing, etc.  Then weld the hardie tool to the top of the base plate.

Make up several of the base plates to have them on hand when needed.

 

[Frosty]

Also, you don't have to go to the work of grinding welds smooth enough the bottom tool rests flat on the anvil if you weld the shank to one side. This also allows you to put the impact area closer to the sweet spot over the center of the base. It also lets you position and angle the bottom tool for best access. Say a guillotine tool mounted in the center over the hardy hole can make it impossible to angle stock into it without contacting the anvil face. However if you place the shank so the guillotine is next to an edge over the sweet spot you can use it at virtually any angle with the stock extending over the anvil's side.

Make sense?

Frosty The Lucky.

[Shainarue]

Thanks for that tip with the guillotine positioning Frosty! I had sketched up a design to make one (based on others I've seen for purchase) and now I'm adding that bit to my plan. 

[Frosty]

My pleasure. It works for a number of bottom tool, a bic especially but if you weld them or forge them straight off the shank it's easy enough to rotate it in the hardy hole to work off the side and avoid the anvil face interfering. 

Boy that was a clumsy sentence, a Bic was a bad example for welding the shank to the side of the tool. It is however a good example of a bottom tool you want to be able to work off the anvil face. 

Okay, here's an example of bottom tool that works best at the edge. I as turning a lot of eye bolt forms and got tired of having to remove the bending fork and replacing it so I could use the anvil face. Sooooo, I made a horizontal bending fork to turn the eyes vertically off the side of the anvil. It worked surprisingly well for what I thought was a one off make do tool. I inserted the hot steel up past the edge of the anvil and lifted the free end. All the movement of the stock was completely off the anvil sort of like working a pump handle. I was free to leave a punch and bolster plate or whatever in place.

Frosty The Lucky.

[natkova]

I tought it has to do with strenghts, like full steel stem will be more robust and sturdy.

But i see no point with having it forged from one solid piece or having it welded from two solid pieces of material.

I think it dont affect if its pipe or full steel, when all force is on shoulder.

 

[Glenn]

Do not give up on the full use of the tool.  You can still use it in a portable hardie hole or even the vise.

One or two hardie tools are easy, but keep 3 or more in a dedicated box or crate so you can find them.

ALWAYS remember to remove the hardie tool from the top of the anvil when it is not in use.  Otherwise it is a pinch point for injury or removal of fingers.  

[JHCC]

Yes and no. See 

 

6 hours ago, natkova said:

I tought it has to do with strenghts, like full steel stem will be more robust and sturdy.

All depends on how good your welds are!

[Mod34]

MOD NOTE: The discussion of hardy tool safety has been moved to the page linked in JHCC's previous comment.