Fireant Posted September 10, 2022 Share Posted September 10, 2022 …I wasn’t paying attention when I pulled the crankplate/shaft out of the bearings, so when the spacers between components fell out and hit the dirt, I now have no idea which ones go where. Looking for any advice on this. There are three sets of spacers in differing ID/OD, but there are no obvious recesses in the bearing/housing faces to fit any of them I’m thinking it would seem logical to measure the shaft length to the backside of the crankplate, and subtract the distance between the front and rear bearing faces- that should give me some idea of how much to shim between the crankplate and the front bearing face so that the end of the shaft is flush with the rear bearing face. Where I’m stuck is figuring proper spacing between the spider and the back face of the front bearing. the friction pulley and the front face of the rear bearing. Any advice? Am I overthinking this? Many thanks, Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 10, 2022 Share Posted September 10, 2022 Reminds me of the time I was replacing the front wheel bearings on a late 50s 4x4 pickup and had the parts laid out in order to reassemble. When I got back with bearings and seals I discovered the station manager had "cleaned up" the area under the lift and ALL the parts were jumbled in a box. 3 large washers that not only had to be in the right order they had to be facing the right direction. I got it figured out and learned a bit but spent quite a while yelling and calling the manager names. Nor was I the one to get chewed out when the station owner, lead mechanic found out. Sorry for the side track but I feel your pain and worse you don't have anyone else to yell at. I think you're on the right track measuring the shaft and position of the blocks to the shaft. Another indicator might be the clutch linkage throw. It might be a PITA but I doubt there's more than one way she'll go together naturally. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireant Posted September 10, 2022 Author Share Posted September 10, 2022 Thanks Frosty, I got to thinking about it a little more- the clutch spider is in a fixed position on the shaft, fixed in place with a tapered pin mated to a flat on the shaft. I can dry-fit it in place on the shaft and take measurements from there. The distance between the front of the spider to the back of the crankplate, minus the length of the front bearing housing, should give me the total space to take up with spacers. Put half the stack between the crankplate and bearing, and the other half between the spider and the bearing, and Bob’s yer uncle… right? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Seriously, if anyone can tell me I’m wrong, I’d love to hear it before I put this thing back together. I don’t have nearly as much experience with this thing as a lot of you here. It was easier than I expected to pull the shaft and crankplate off, but I don’t want to have to do it over and over again. Oh, and Frosty, don’t sweat the digressions and stories- it’s what we do. My wife asked how was the forge meeting? I said “ABOOFSATS- A Bunch Of Old Farts Standing Around Telling Stories.” Lee Shade Tree Forge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 10, 2022 Share Posted September 10, 2022 Just so long as you don't drive my Ferrari out the window of the 3rd. story garage we're good. Cool, you have benchmark locations to match it should be pretty straight forward from there. Cool beans I'm looking forward to seeing that puppy beating the stuffings out of some hot steel. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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