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I Forge Iron

Donal’s Gas Forge Build


Donal Harris

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I am not sure what this pipe was intended for. Something oil and related.  It is 28” long with an internal diameter of about 7,5” and OD of about 8.5”. 
 

Is this too thick? It is awfully heavy. Is the internal diameter too small? Once all the insulation and such is added, how wide will it likely be?

I want to try an ribbon burner, but not naturally aspirated. I was considering NARB, but as someone in a Beginner Blacksmithing group on FB pointed out to me, I am not Frosty and NARB requires a lot of knowledge about how to tweak the settings. I don’t have that. 
 

Any suggestions as to length will be appreciated. I only need it large enough for hammers and maybe large camp knives. 

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On 8/5/2022 at 8:09 PM, DHarris said:

Is this too thick? It is awfully heavy. Is the internal diameter too small? Once all the insulation and such is added, how wide will it likely be?

You are right both times, and yes it is WAY too heavy. There is an endless supply of drums and other containers, which can be acquired for little or no money. Used propane bottles, or five gallon paint containers work fine for what we consider as LARGE gas forges. Expended none-refillable helium cylinders and truck mufflers (cut in half) have been used for knife maker and jewelers forge for years. Som guys use ammo box or mailboxes as forge shells.

You want a forge that is easy to put away after use, and easy to transport to job sites, or for demonstrations.

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Ditto Mike, that's silly too heavy and too small, you'd end up with something like a bean can forge but weighed as much as my shop forge.

Making NARB is NOT difficult if you can follow simple directions and operate a tape measure and drill press. If you run into problems you can give me a shout. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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No one who is familiar with this forum doubts my love for tunnel, oval, and "D" shaped forges. However I am suggesting, since you spoke of making hammers and knives, that you take a long hard look at small brick pile forges, made from Morgan K26 insulating bricks, metal angle, and all-thread. The very best forge size is also the very best forge shape; and that is variable.

If you coat the flame facing side of the bricks with Plistex, your little forge should last for years and work quite efficiently. Furthermore, everyone who sees it running will want one too :)

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If you'd like D, I'll post or PM the pic of the bolt together brick pile forge our club built during a 2 day burner forge build clinic. If it's not the one Mike's referring to I'm misinterpreting the hint. I'd post it now but I've posted it probably a hundred times, folks gotta be getting tired of looking at it. :ph34r:

Frosty The Lucky.

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That fire brick and angle iron looks like it would be a good way to find out if I would really have need for gas forge. 
 

The pipe I will save for wheels. I’ve been wanting two wheels for my coal forge for some time now. It would be nice to be able to move it easily without using a dolly. My dad made my smoker below. It has three. For my coal forge I am thinking just two. 
 

(Observant people may notice it is August and there are still Fall leaves all around it. I waited too long for Fall cleanup last year. Then missed it again in the Spring. It was too hot this Summer. I am shooting now for maybe November 15. :D )

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  • 3 weeks later...

Bolt together forge with a Frosty T burner is looking like it will be where I will begin. Frosty’s instructions look like they should be easy enough to follow. I will need to buy the fire bricks, a stick of angle iron, hose and regulator, but most everything else I already have laying around. 

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  • 2 months later...

I've been using K-26 for a few years now. K-28s would be great, most home built forges are maxed out before that. IIRC the club build screw together 1/2" T burner powered forges took 10 bricks.  Remember, doubling the # of bricks more than doubles the volume but you have to allow for overlap and some oddnesses.

We didn't seal anything, just stack the brick with a minimum of 2.25: lap.

Kiln washed the inner surfaces but didn't mortar anything together, they expand and contract quickly with the thermal cycles. Mortaring them together might promote breakage, the overlap in the joints allows for movement and flame leakage was acceptable.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I agree Mike it looks like K-28 is less than 1/2 what it was maybe a year ago. Bummer I don't need any.

K-25s are the least popular and cost almost as much to make as k-26. As of the last I gleaned from various sources that sell the things on a large scale.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I have to make a brick pile forge this coming summer (to feature in the next book) and will move to K28 Morgan bricks for it. Should be interesting to see how tough-versus-insulating they are. I've been thinking about using Kast-O-lite 30 refractory for a flame face within an outer layer of Morgan 26 bricks for a true oval forge (with oval interior as well as shell); will move those up to K28 too.

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