M.J.Lampert Posted May 18, 2022 Share Posted May 18, 2022 (edited) I grabbed a Kanca 50 anvil on sale as I've heard good about their vices before purchase i tested rebound with a 3/8 bearing ball and its good 80-95% at $800 i thought it wouldn't be a bad grab as I've seen no old anvils locally. brought it home and tested it with a small ballpeen starting about 4 inches and light blows there are visible marks in the face (images left large to see) and a 800G hammer was flattening the edges while taking small nicks to the face I'm trying to decide if i should return it and wait for something better or use this it is definitely forged top, 2 pieces and welded together. Base may be cast M.J.Lampert Edited May 18, 2022 by M.J.Lampert photo sizing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frazer Posted May 18, 2022 Share Posted May 18, 2022 If the rebound with a ball bearing was good I would trust that over a hammer. To me the marks on the face appear to be more like scratches than dents. They're nothing I would worry about anyway. I wouldn't be surprised if only the face is induction hardened and the horns are still soft. That being said I have read here that the hardness of the face of Kanca anvils can vary substantially from one to another. The million dollar question is is it better than what you have now? And perhaps, do you still like it? You're the one who will be using it after all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted May 18, 2022 Author Share Posted May 18, 2022 the rebound is still good with a hammer. I'm gonna find some time to get in the shop and do an hour or two on it and se if i like it. there are no bolt holes what would be the best way to hold it down? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frazer Posted May 18, 2022 Share Posted May 18, 2022 As far as mounting goes there are nearly endless ways of doing so.. What are you mounting it to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted May 18, 2022 Author Share Posted May 18, 2022 wood stump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 18, 2022 Share Posted May 18, 2022 Do you have a good magnifying glass? The marks on the face may just be the finish machining marks being flattened on the high spots. This would be pretty normal even for hardened steel if it was ground after heat treatment. The little chips in the edge is why you try not to strike the edges with the hammer, let along "light" taps with a 800gm hammer! I realize you're young but please try to get the, "if a little is good a LOT is better," out of your game bag! an 80gm ball pein would've told you all you needed to know without damaging anything. The same thinking has people actually RECOMMENDING a 1" bearing ball for a rebound test and guys are dropping them from 3' I've read about a couple few who climbed ladders so they could drop them from 10'. It's small wonder Centaur refuses to honor the warranty on an anvil tested with a bearing. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frazer Posted May 18, 2022 Share Posted May 18, 2022 Wood stump? Forge some staples, bend over some large nails, RR spikes, some fancy strap contraption, etc., etc.. EZPZ. Frosty, what are your thoughts on a cannon that fires 1" ball bearings? With a well positioned chronograph we could determine it's velocity before it hits the anvil and again on its return journey! It occurs to me that it might be best to fire our cannon remotely. The rebound off the old noggin is probably pretty low and not worth measuring.... Though, I have been told I can be hard headed... (Note for MJ, I'm not poking fun at you. My imagination is simply running away with me) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted May 18, 2022 Author Share Posted May 18, 2022 (edited) 27 minutes ago, Frosty said: Do you have a good magnifying glass? The marks on the face may just be the finish machining marks being flattened on the high spots. This would be pretty normal even for hardened steel if it was ground after heat treatment. The little chips in the edge is why you try not to strike the edges with the hammer, let along "light" taps with a 800gm hammer! I realize you're young but please try to get the, "if a little is good a LOT is better," out of your game bag! an 80gm ball pein would've told you all you needed to know without damaging anything. The same thinking has people actually RECOMMENDING a 1" bearing ball for a rebound test and guys are dropping them from 3' I've read about a couple few who climbed ladders so they could drop them from 10'. Frosty The Lucky. thanks i will take a magnifying glass out and look oops I'm slightly more brawns than brains (at times) I've learned that from you in a separate thread and now my edc includes a 3/8 bearing ball and I'll drop from 10in beside a tape measure Frazer, I've been told similar (bull headed) and at times i can be rather thick skinned PS I don't see how that was poking fun at me Edited May 18, 2022 by M.J.Lampert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George N. M. Posted May 18, 2022 Share Posted May 18, 2022 MJ, what I have used on my Peter Wright (which has steps on the feet under the horn and heel) are two pieces of angle iron with holes drilled in them over the steps and 4 lag bolts through the holes into the stump. It has worked well for over 30 years. They are easily removable if necessary, unlike staples pounded into the stump. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted May 18, 2022 Author Share Posted May 18, 2022 with taxes payed on it and it comes at 8.14 CAD which at the moment i type this converts to 6.32 USD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojo Pedro Posted May 20, 2022 Share Posted May 20, 2022 M.J. my Kanca had a thick layer of clear coat on the face. It was very hard to remove with a cup brush. Have you removed the clear if it came with any? You will get better rebound afterwards My Kanca seems very hard to me. It has %95+ rebound in the sweet spot and has barely any marks after three years of weekends I have heard of soft ones however, maybe I got lucky. I have been happy with mine - P.S. thats a good price. About what I paid, with shipping, 3 years ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted May 20, 2022 Author Share Posted May 20, 2022 22 hours ago, Rojo Pedro said: M.J. my Kanca had a thick layer of clear coat on the face. It was very hard to remove with a cup brush. Have you removed the clear if it came with any? You will get better rebound afterwards My Kanca seems very hard to me. It has %95+ rebound in the sweet spot and has barely any marks after three years of weekends i will see if there is any coating on it i found similar rebound across the face varying at most 15% IMHO M.J.Lampert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted May 21, 2022 Author Share Posted May 21, 2022 looking at stand designs on the dedicated thread sadly the first 2 hands of pages are short on images Show me your anvil stands - Page 35 - Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc - I Forge Iron looking at this one https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/51596-show-me-your-anvil-stands/?do=findComment&comment=519256 also like this design https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/51596-show-me-your-anvil-stands/?do=findComment&comment=469929 both would work well as my anvil has no good point to tie into many others to sort through before i decide finally i see a lot of anvils have extra chain wrapped around I've hear that this reduces the ring, is this true? M.J.Lampert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojo Pedro Posted May 21, 2022 Share Posted May 21, 2022 For me silicon worked perfect. I wrapped a chain and put on a few magnets but it was glueing to the base that made all the difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted May 21, 2022 Author Share Posted May 21, 2022 ok also should i add more of a point to the horn or make a tool for the hardy hole if i need to make smaller diameter holes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatLiner Posted May 21, 2022 Share Posted May 21, 2022 Make a bick to go in the hardy hole if you need a smaller diameter hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojo Pedro Posted May 21, 2022 Share Posted May 21, 2022 Yes make a bick, one of the things I dont like about mine is the blunt horn. I trimmed mine up a bit but there is a lot of material to remove so I made this bick. Plus it was fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 21, 2022 Share Posted May 21, 2022 You only have to ram a sharp pointed horn into your thigh once to know why a small Bick is the better way to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted May 21, 2022 Share Posted May 21, 2022 Also the reason so many old blacksmiths blunted the sharp points on their horns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 21, 2022 Share Posted May 21, 2022 The end of the horn on my Soderfors is about the size of the end of my little finger and leaves a bruise that can take weeks to fade. It'll teach you to watch where you're going. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 22, 2022 Share Posted May 22, 2022 Yup; why I am flabbergasted at all the folks wanting to put a sharp point on their anvil's horn---trying for a "Blacksmith's Vasectomy"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 22, 2022 Share Posted May 22, 2022 Not enough 2 week bruises or shed blood. Mostly I stopped moving fast around the anvil's horn unless I'm working on it. About the third time I nailed myself to an anvil horn they became positively fascinating. I always seem to be aware of the things. That was before Iforgeiron and I still remember it like yesterday. Bruised clear to the bone. <shudder> A sharpish bic is a good thing. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted May 22, 2022 Share Posted May 22, 2022 If you must have a sharp point on an anvil horn, cut an X in a tennis ball and attach it to the end of the horn with a bungee cord around the heel of the anvil to hold it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted May 22, 2022 Share Posted May 22, 2022 At ESSA there are tennis balls on just about everything, along with yellow & black caution tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 23, 2022 Share Posted May 23, 2022 Besides which bungee cords have such an amusing smell when hot steel touches them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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