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I know it's fairly pricy, but in floor heat is a very efficient way of heating. It also requires proper insulation of the grade beam and slab to avoid losing the heat to the surrounding ground.

We are using this method more frequently for commercial applications in my area.


In floor hydronic heat is pretty common hereabouts as it's very efficient, especially in shops.

This is me laying the 3/4" Pex for the hydronic heat. It also shows the 2" sq floor sockets. They're set flush with the floor on a 4' grid and connected to a sub-floor exhaust system.

They'll hopefully do all sorts of good things for me, first by providing a downdraft exhaust system so I can get rid of smoke and noxious fumes without having to change out all the air in the shop a couple times. Welding/cutting table is a bar grate over a plenum, it's legs pluginto the floor sockets. Additional exhaust can be provided with flex hose to where it's needed.

It'll also draw the cold air off the floor instead of the warm air away from the ceiling so your tootsies will stay warmer. While the air on the floor is maybe uncomfortably cool it'll be a lot warmer than the ground and will serve to keep the floor warmer than it would normally be. The exhaust system is about 8" below the slab.

Then the sockets will support all sorts of handy things like pedestal tools without bases to trip over, scaffolding, odd sized/shaped tables and floor size jigs. The sockets are also grounded together through welded rebar so I won't have so many ground cables to trip over. I've already used them and the porta-power to straighten a twisted corner column for the shop. I'm sure other uses will occur as I use the things. (I surely do hope so anyway)

Frosty

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Here is a pic of my shop that I just took last week. I also included a shot of my latest project :)


She's got your smile and nose. Normally I'd insert a wisecrack here but I'll give you the "guy with a new baby" break. :)

I just finished the main work on the new shop heater. I still have a fan or blower to mount on the heat exchanger, louvers for the front and a secondary air intake at the coupling for more complete combustion but she's essentially done. Oh yeah, I'll ram an inch or so of fire clay/sand mix in the bottom to prevent burn through in a couple years.

The heat exchanger is a cut down 55gl drum with a 15gl grease barrel through it's center. The coupler allows the exchanger to be turned so a blower on the back can direct heat where I want it. The louvers will allow me to aim the warm air at the floor or through the vent to the machine shop room. (as yet built)

Another thing I'll do but maybe not on this stove is put a couple loops of copper tubing in it so I can heat the slab. That'll work a lot better on a vertical barrel stove but time was getting short on this season so I just bought a kit, put it together and built the exchanger.

Anyway, that's one more pre-winter project in the books. Installation next, once ALL the paint is burnt off! That's what I'm doing in these pics, burning the paint off, looking for smoke leaks and generally observing how she burns. I do this with all the stoves I make. I HATE fire related surprises!

Frosty

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Frosty, those 2" floor sockets are an awsome idea, one more thing to include in my plans for my new shop, the heated floor is already on there, I am gonna have an outdoor wood furnace to heat the shop and house but I will still have a woodstove inside.
Are you going to have any type of caps or plugs for the floor sockets?

welder19

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In floor hydronic heat is pretty common hereabouts as it's very efficient, especially in shops.

This is me laying the 3/4" Pex for the hydronic heat. It also shows the 2" sq floor sockets. They're set flush with the floor on a 4' grid and connected to a sub-floor exhaust system.

They'll hopefully do all sorts of good things for me, first by providing a downdraft exhaust system so I can get rid of smoke and noxious fumes without having to change out all the air in the shop a couple times. Welding/cutting table is a bar grate over a plenum, it's legs pluginto the floor sockets. Additional exhaust can be provided with flex hose to where it's needed.

It'll also draw the cold air off the floor instead of the warm air away from the ceiling so your tootsies will stay warmer. While the air on the floor is maybe uncomfortably cool it'll be a lot warmer than the ground and will serve to keep the floor warmer than it would normally be. The exhaust system is about 8" below the slab.

Then the sockets will support all sorts of handy things like pedestal tools without bases to trip over, scaffolding, odd sized/shaped tables and floor size jigs. The sockets are also grounded together through welded rebar so I won't have so many ground cables to trip over. I've already used them and the porta-power to straighten a twisted corner column for the shop. I'm sure other uses will occur as I use the things. (I surely do hope so anyway)

Frosty


Very nice Frosty! That looks like it will be a very nice shop.

Are you using a boiler system, or geothermal heat or some other method for you in-floor heating?

I have a friend who is in the planning stage of building a house that will use geothermal heat. It sounds like a nice alternative.
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Yes, the sockets are capped flush with the floor. They're not receiver tubing though, that's way expensive, they are 2 5/8" heavy wall giving them an ID of just under 2 1/8". The 2" sq. has a little slop but 1/8" wedges take care of it nicely when I need solid.

Eventually I'll have a boiler of some type but for now it'll be the barrel stove. Hopefully next summer I'll get a chance to build a vertical barrel or can pile (24" dia x 7/8" wall steel pipe, bridge foundation left over) stove and install the heating coils for the infloor heat. The existing heat exchanger will go on the vertical stove.

I've considered geothermal, compost, waste oil, coal, wood chip, etc. heat but lack the resources at the moment to play with any of them. In any case a couple inches of urethane will make it pretty economical to heat. That's down the road too though.

As it stands the gasser rapidly brings the shop to uncomfortably warm. Of course that's anything much over 65f for me. :o

Frosty

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  • 2 weeks later...

This is my shop space for now - one corner of my classroom. All this stuff was left over when my school used to be a Jr.High. Then it closed down and re-openned as an Elementary school (K-8). Little did they know they would one day hire a teacher who would happily put all this to use. I love my classroom -16 meters long, full woodworking at one end, and a sheet metal shop at the other (minus welding equipment) with huge project tables inbetween for assembly work (or teaching as the case may be). The only thing I need to do is figure out how to take it all with me if I ever leave. :D
My future projects is the convert my drive-shed into a home smithy (with my woodshop in the basement - once I figure out how to keep it from flooding when it rains) :o
Aeneas

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I just posted this on another thread "Keeping the neighbours happy" but i figured it applied here as well.
I live just outside of downtown Hamilton, Ontario in the burbs. I have neighbours to either side, a back alley and neighbours across from the alley. I've been thinking about this very question lately - ever since I got it into my head to turn my drive-shed into a smithy (Oakhammer Forge :D).

The plan is to use ONLY charcoal and propane (I want to set up 3 workstations, one charcoal and 2 propane for when my students/friends come over so we can work together). I'm planning to make 2 ammo can gassers and a brick forge with an over/under great bellows for the charcoal. But I'm thinking of designing my brick forge to be dual purpose so that I can run coke occasionally as well -NEVER coal, even in a steel town like Hamilton. That means 2 tuyeres (side and bottom) and some kind of gate systen for the air feed. The problem is I am in NO WAY zoned for this kind of thing so I have to play really nice with the neighbours.

I can see it so clearly in my head that I can almost hear the ring of the anvil. I can't wait to make this real. I've slowly begun to gather equipment together. One day ... hopefully soon.:)
Aeneas

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  • 1 month later...

Here's an update of my shop.

Picture 1: Forge running today, burning wood to warm the shop.
Picture 2: A few of my leaf springs, my two extra postvises, a lot of files in that red container, and two pair of kaowool gloves.
Picture 3: Safety equipment, mask, glasses, ear plugs, aprons
Picture 4: some of the hammers
Picture 5: assortment of steel
Picture 6: coal bin, post-vise, tools for post vise
Picture 7: drill press and bench grinder
Picture 8: kinda shows you everything on the bench

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Gents,

A quick shot of the shop, lay out table, post vise, two anvil stations HB and a PW, forge, work table and assorted equipment. some made, some donated by friends and all well used. Does the collecting ever stop... not likely.
Best regards,
Peter

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  • 3 weeks later...

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