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Graffiti anvil, brand new to blacksmithing...


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Hey all, first time posting. I got lucky within the last three months of getting a Mr. Volcano Hero Forge and recently bought a used anvil from someone who wanted to get rid of it. So my questions are this:

 

1) What kind of grinding wheel should I use to get this paint off since I don't want to mess around with chemicals?

2) What grit wheel should I use to clean up the cut marks on the cutting step? 

3) Anyone know what brand this might be? I didn't see any markings so far, but I also haven't had time to take a very close look at it yet. I wonder if there are any faded stampings under the paint. I'm thinking it might be a Trenton?

 

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

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Thanks! I was debating between wire wheel, wire cup brush, or something similar to the Scotch-Brite Clean and Strip XT Pro Disc for removing paint off metal. Maybe I'm overthinking the small things, I'm also somewhat new to using angle grinders.

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That anvil looks like it’s in pretty good shape, its definitely a good find, how much did you have to give for it if you don’t mind my asking? 
 

also you might want to edit your post to remove the at sign before the mods see it, just type the name of the person who your talking to, 

If you haven’t already you also might wanna read the (read this first thread) it will help answer some questions and give you an idea of how the forum works! 

 

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Twistedwillow Oh yeah, I couldn't pass up that offer especially as a beginner who couldn't afford to buy a brand new anvil quite yet. Just gotta build my stand to the correct height, put some caster wheels to be mobile in the shop and I'll be ready to learn the basics while building up the skills to get good.

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Before you you build a stand definitely take some time and read through some threads under the anvil and swage block stands section, there are tons of wonderful designs both wood and metal, 

I’d shy away from putting full time casters on the bottom as it could walk on you while working an possibly tip over, but I have seen some casters put on the side so the stand can be tipped an moved on two wheels to help it be mobile! 

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One thing you don't want is the anvil rolling around when hammering hot steel or twisting using any of the hardy tools with it. Most anvils have the name on the side opposite your first picture, horn facing to the right. RR ties will make a good stand but have to be placed on end and several bolted,banded together to be stable enough. I like large enough tree stumps. What does your anvil weigh?

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Dear EpyonX,

Welcome aboard.  I'm always glad to see another Area Code 307 smith. if we can get some more we can give the Okies and the Ohioans a run for their money.  I think that you will find the craft rewarding.  I have for the last 40+ years.

You are just over the hill from me.  Once the covids have gone away we may be able to meet up.  If you haven't yet look up Rocky Mountain Smiths.  They are a good bunch and have some very good demos, hammer ins, and conferences.  Things have recently been restricted by covid but are starting to drift back towards normalcy.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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Welcome aboard EpyonX, glad to have you. A cup brush will clean her up all she needs. Make sure you're wearing flying wire needles proof protective gear! Safety glasses and face shield, leather apron is a really good idea, dust mask and no spectators!

Casters under an anvil takes some fancy engineering to provide a solid base when you use it. Mounting it on some screwed together RR tie standing on end makes a good solid stand you can move easily with a hand truck. 

One of the members here has slick cam locking casters rugged on his stand but he's a prolific tinkerer. One of his mottos is "If it ain't broke we'll fix it till it is."

Keep things simple or run it past us. We love helping someone get started in the craft. Hook up with George when you can, he'll get you going faster than years worth of reading and watching youtube will.

Frosty The Lucky.

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18 minutes ago, George N. M. said:

if we can get some more we can give the Okies and the Ohioans a run for their money

George, 

I can’t speak for Ohio they gotta jump in for themselves,

but I thought Everyone knows Oklahoma is the greatest state in the lower 48! Lol 

Nothing like a tahlequah sunset, being an okie from muskogee, eating bbq in salisaw or just livin on Tulsa time in general! lol 

okay I’ll admit all the states are great!!! Ive never visited one I didn’t like! 

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Twisted, it just seems like there are a disproportionate number of folk from OK on IFI, followed by folk from OH.  The distribution of blacksmiths, at least those on IFI, does not seem to follow population.  Otherwise we would see many more folk from NY, CA, TX, IL, FL, etc..  Maybe that is a function of the fact that it is probably easier to be a blacksmith in a rural or small town setting than it is in an urban area or suburbia.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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Irondragon ForgeClay Works: This is the only picture I have of it facing the other way, I'll try to get a better one some time tomorrow. Last I checked that side didn't have any kind of stamping that I could see. I'm hoping once I take the paint off that letters can finally be visible. It weighs 100 pounds. If I can find a tree stump/log while scrounging around I'll probably get some solid boards for the casters and take your advice on that. I tend to have the mindset of less moving parts = less BS.

George N.M.: Oh if we could get some cows and horses into the hobby we could finally outnumber OK. WY has less people than even AK last I checked, but I could be wrong.

Frosty: Lucky for me I got solid ear protection, safety goggles plus face shield, and a respirator. A crappy jacket goes on when I work with the angle grinder. I'll definitely look into a leather apron though as money permits.

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Ep:  Pronghorn antelope might be a better choice.  I have had them look into the shop occasionally.

Yes, WY is still the smallest state by population. 576,851 according to the 2020 census.  733,391 in AK.  So, WY is only about 79% the size of AK by population.

Do you know the way to mount an anvil for your own height?  If not, there are lots of posts on IFI on the topic or PM me.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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Knuckle height is more appropriate for strikers than the solo blacksmith. Wrist height is more comfortable and effective for hand hammering. If you find yourself using a lot of top tools you might be better off at knuckle height.

Wrist high is probably your best bet until you have enough time at the anvil your own techniques start to develop.

Frosty The Lucky.

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There is plenty of argument/discussion about best anvil height.  What you want is for the face of your hammer to be parallel with the face of the anvil at impact.  This will vary on your stance while hammering and what size of a hammer you are using.  For most folk, if you are swinging a heavier hammer you will open you stance which reduces your height.  What works best for one person may not be optimal for another person of the same height.

I have always used knuckle height and it is what I have gotten used to.

Personal ergonomics may play into it too.  If you have a bad back you may want to have a higher anvil to avoid any suggestion of bending over.

The best thing may be to temporarily mount your anvil in such a way that you can add or subtract height until you find what works best for you.  There is no "right" way but for any individual there can be a large number of wrong ways.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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Might be an Arm and Hammer; what does the underside of the heel and the base look like? Anyway, as long as it hasn't been through a fire, it's a good one.

Don't grind on the cutting step---that's like cutting tread off your tires cause  they got muddy and you want to clean the mud off!

How much does it weigh?  Looks like a great deal from here.

As to apparent density of smiths:  Perhaps the smiths in more thickly settled places don't need to get online to talk with each other---there are enough local to them.

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Frosty: Good to keep in mind.

 

George N. M.: Thanks for bringing to my attention that good ergonomics for a bad back is something to think about.

 

JHCC: Thank you

 

ThomasPowers: I finally got pictures of the base on the horn side and found some markings that are hard to read, I'm hoping once I clean it up it'll show up better. The underside is mostly solid with a small hollow under the waist. On the underside of the horn there is a hole on the waist that does not pass through, the heel side does not have a hole in the waist if that helps narrow down the manufacturer. The anvil is 100 pounds, I don't think it's been through a fire that I know of yet. A previous owner before the seller spray painted all over it for some reason.

From what I could read of the markings the first picture looks like: A 1 1 8 1 5 4

Second picture looks like: 7 5

 

The anvil measurements are 25" from horn to heel, 3.5" on width of the face. Height is 9", foot length is 9.5", foot width is 8"

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Anvilfoot2.jpg

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