SinDoc Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 Work in progress, but I think I got a decent profile for once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 Looks good. Might want to make the tang a bit narrower just below the bolster, but that's a minor detail. Are you planning to grind back the bevels more before you harden it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SinDoc Posted September 3, 2021 Author Share Posted September 3, 2021 Yes. I haven't figured out what grind would be best, as I have seen a couple different ones for a chefs knife. I was initially going to do a full hollow grind, but am not 100% sure just yet. The tang still has a lot of meat that needs to come off to help with weight as it is fairly heavy currently. Edit: I just realized one of those photos makes it look like it already has an attempt at a bevel, that is not the case and just how the light caught it. It might have a slight bevel, but it is just from where I stopped working on it for the day and is not where it will stay. Also, just in case anyone is curious, it is made from 15N20. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frazer Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 A full flat grind is probably the easiest to file (a safety edge is your friend), sand, keep symmetrical, etc., but whatever works. As as far as removing some weight, I have drilled several 1/2" holes through the tang (in addition to the other holes for pins) to bring the balance forward. It worked quite well for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SinDoc Posted September 3, 2021 Author Share Posted September 3, 2021 That is what I had in mind if it still felt heavy when I was finished. Figured nothing a few holes in the tang couldn't fix. I have been reading up this morning on the best grind for a chefs knife and it does seem like the flat grind is the majority of what people say to use as it doesn't give a wondering cut. So far I am excited for how it is turning out. Hopefully I don't mess up the heat treat again. I really like the grind and look of the knife in this video. One quick question though, if I do manage to actually get to the point of doing scales, what epoxy would you guys recommend? I have heard good things about g/flex and Acraglass, but have also heard people mention JB Weld and Gorilla Glue Epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frazer Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 I use Devcon 30min epoxy with some black pigment added.. It's probably not the "best", but it works just fine.. With the pins the handle isn't going anywhere. The main thing is to use an epoxy with a longer set time (not the 5 minute stuff). They from a stronger bond that lasts longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 AcraGlas has always worked well for me. Yes a longer set time is the best for a strong bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SinDoc Posted September 3, 2021 Author Share Posted September 3, 2021 I see I see. I will try to pick up some 30 minute epoxy this weekend. I believe my local Ace has Acraglass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 I posted this link a while ago. Members of the Knife Network Forums conducted some pretty thorough and exhaustive tests of adhesives. It's a long read but worth it. The conclusion as of 2006 IIRC is on the last couple pages. http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?s=7005a096cff3d30f5c4c0c2f039b1d60&t=27463&page=2 I subscribed to the forum but haven't quite figured it out to ask if there are any new conclusions about adhesives. I'm sure there are, the makers are always developing improvements, it's a competitive market. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan Bladesmith Posted November 20, 2021 Share Posted November 20, 2021 I know Im a couple months late replying, but I would recommend a flat grind. With it being a kitchen knife used for shearing dense mediums in the kitchen like common fruits and vegetables you want to grind it as thin as possible. Trying grind it thin enough on a round wheel will result in grinding through the blade. This might sound a little crazy, but the reason I say this is because Im talking grinding the blade to a spine thickness of about 55,000ths (about 1/16th of an inch) and the edge before sharpening to about 25,000ths of an inch. This needs to be done after heat treat of course, otherwise the blade will warp significantly. All that being said, I have ground kitchen knives on my 16inch diameter wheel and I can still get the over all blade thinner on my flat platten. With kitchen knives, think lowest resistance possible. As thin as possible equals low resistance which equals a happy food prep Hope this helps -Alaskan Bladesmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SinDoc Posted November 24, 2021 Author Share Posted November 24, 2021 This knife is actually still sitting on the workbench as my grinder broke lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.