possum Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 So I'm trying to build a power hammer. On the anvil portion I have several large pieces of steel. One is 12" diameter and 9" tall. The other is 3.5" diameter and about 48" though I won't be using the whole thing. Does it matter where the mass is placed or just that it's there. I'm trying to decide if I should weld the big piece on the 3.5 or 3.5 on the big piece. possum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 "Under the hammer" is generally a pretty good rule. So to be serious, if my calculations are correct, your 3.5" d. x 48" l. piece should weigh around 130 lbs, and your 12" d. x 9" l. piece should weigh a little under 290 lbs. If you use the standard anvil:tup ratio of 10:1, that would give you a maximum hammer weights of 13 lbs and 29 lbs respectively. However, if you cut your 3.5" diameter piece into three 18" lengths and weld them up as a tripod to support the 12" diameter piece, that would give you an anvil weight of 420 lbs, not including whatever additional bracing you might add to beef up the tripod. That would allow you a 42 lbs tup. Keep in mind that this is just theoretical speculation on my part, as I've never built a power hammer. Here's hoping others with more experience will chip in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 I'd put the 9" dia. piece on the bottom rather than the top. I'd lay the 3, 3.5 dia pieces parallel in contact to make for a solid weld. If a person wanted a solid anvil top it'd be easy enough to let a piece in the triangular gap between the verticals with a goodly deep scarf to fillet weld. Can do similar to fill the three triangular spaces on the outside of the anvil. I wouldn't make the fill pieces more than say 2" long and it'd be a snap to literally forge them to fit by using the welded block as a swage. The problem with welding the wider section on top is not being able to do more than a perimeter weld. Sure you have the same issue at the other end, however there's better than 120lbs. of relatively solid depth of steel before impact energy reaches the lesser bond. That's just my opinion and reasoning. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 Makes sense. Much depends on the specific alloy, of course. Something that requires pre- and post-heating could complicate things somewhat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted August 2, 2021 Author Share Posted August 2, 2021 the 12d x 9l piece is a mild steel drop and the 3.5d x 48(ish)L piece was from a horizontal mill where the head telescoped on. Probably mild steel also. possum so is 27" (9+18) a typical anvil height? well, adding a die height also. possum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 ARGH, I had dia and length backwards! It'll work even better as the base. If the 3.5" shaft is mild or close it'll be easy too drill and tap for quick change bottom dies. Heck, you'd be able to rotate it for different applications. What do you have for the hammer? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted August 3, 2021 Author Share Posted August 3, 2021 Nothing for a hammer yet. I have other metal pieces I just figured I'd figure out the heavier stuff first. So, now that I know the anvil setup the hammer is what, 10:1? ps I didn't even realize you switched the diameter and length. How's that for reading comprehension? possum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted August 3, 2021 Share Posted August 3, 2021 The good news is that 12"d x 9"l weighs about 75lbs more than 9"d x 12"l. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted August 3, 2021 Author Share Posted August 3, 2021 It's also nice it's round... so I can roll it. possum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 3, 2021 Share Posted August 3, 2021 And I switched them, how's that for writing comprehension? Just don't roll it over your toe. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Ewert Posted August 5, 2021 Share Posted August 5, 2021 I'm using a simple "H" beam for the anvil on my hammer and it works fine. I don't think you'll have any problems no matter how you configure it. The foundation is more important IMHO. That's where all the force is dissipated. My hammer has a 40lb tup and it shakes the house. I have 8" of concrete below it which is not nearly enough. Should be closer to 36", or more, and isolated from the slab. As to your anvil height that depends. I prefer to sit while using the hammer. I find it to be a more stable position and I can see what I'm doing much better. Easier on my back too. Otherwise you could check what the nominal height is on commercial machines and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted November 21, 2021 Share Posted November 21, 2021 I never saw any indication that your hammer "works fine". If you haven't compared your performance to an actual power hammer then you are just muddying the waters with your claims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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