New Foundry Build

[11xray]

Hey all, 

I took a design from 1000s of internet foundries and added a couple features to it. I added a port to the side that the chase can directly connect. And, I relocated the top handle (ala Devil Forge) by welding it to its new location, and added a hinge to the lid. Also cut the vent in the center which was AWESOME for melting cans tonight. 
 

I didn’t get any temperature readings during first use like a dunce, but I will next time. Oh, I also added “throttle” plates to the intake ports for easy choke. I realize this is less necessary with this burner, but consider it personal flair. 
 

The can is galvanized, but it had a burn-in outdoors prior to the first melt. The surface of the can doesn’t exceed 200F mostly, with a few known hot spots that cooked off well-away from me. Hope y’all like it! 

[ThomasPowers]

If you are using a properly made T Burner:  IT NEVER NEEDS CHOKING, adding that junk just throws off the correct adjustment.  If you didn't make a proper T burner and adjust it then its just rolling the dice.  As T burners tend to start with a rich burn and get adjusted to neutral chokes would be the opposite of what is needed.

Are all the openings the same size on that burner? 

[Frazer]

10 hours ago, 11xray said:

The surface of the can doesn’t exceed 200F mostly

It's the mostly part part that concerns me.. Could you at least paint it with some 500F engine enamel spray paint? I believe zinc stats to release oxides around the 700F mark, so you would at least have some warning that your can is getting excessively hot... Or better yet just ditch the galvy can and replace it with something else.. I like the second idea better.

Did you rigidize that ceramic blanket?

https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/53239-ceramic-wool-insulation-safety-alert/

[11xray]

I just got my bucket of refractory cement this morning, so that's on my to-do list tonight. Regarding the can, I'm always looking for good stainless alternatives. In the meantime, I do an initial burn-in (running it outdoors, without crucible) to cook off much of the hot spots and all future melts are done outdoors with a fan. I'm well aware of zinc and fumes, I've done many alloys, many brass melts, copper, I'm familiar with chromium and various other dangers while melting certain metals. 

When dealing with zinc in any way melting-related, I use my P2 rated 3M 9322A+ welding respirator, that is rated for welding galvanized metal. I'd love to have one of the belt mounted units, maybe one day. 

Stainless steel fumes are known to contain chromium which is a carcinogen. It's always going to a trade-off in one way or another.  I appreciate the concern, I really do. As I commented on another thread yesterday, I had a steam explosion one time while pouring brass. I'm all about that safety now. 

[Frazer]

Refractory cement isn't intended to be used as a flame face. You're looking for castable refractory (i.e. Kastolite 30). I don't have a gas forge, but this is something that has been discussed many times here. It's a common mistake, no worries. I would just hold off until you have the right stuff.

I'm not saying you're not concerned about safety, I just wouldn't want some other person who is less aware about the dangers zinc seeing that and wondering why he gets a splitting headache every time he runs it...

Also, yes, chromium fumes (hexavalent chromium) are very dangerous and if you were welding your SS or chromed bucket it might have been mentioned. However, in the temperature range the shell of an insulated foundry such as yours would be expected to reach, SS is very stable and will not release any fumes. That isn't necessarily the case for galvy.

Anyway, I don't mean to be a bore, there are others who have more experience with these sorts of setups that can offer more input than I can. Welcome aboard and good luck!

[11xray]

2 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

Are all the openings the same size on that burner? 

They are, and that'll be changed out too. I have some other suggestions already about using 1 1/2" inlets instead of 1". 

18 minutes ago, Frazer said:

Refractory cement isn't intended to be used as a flame face. You're looking for castable refractory (i.e. Kastolite 30).

I stand corrected, after checking the bucket, it is castable refractory. I appreciate the clarification, I bought the right thing by dumb luck or someone else's smart link. 

[ThomasPowers]

Have you ever done any casting using petrobond?  I've accidentally transferred finger prints with it. I mainly cast small items like knife fittings and find I really like casting fine silver, at least back when the price was reasonable!   A lot of the things I have cast I used old fashioned tuna fish cans for the cope and drag with a hose clamp to hold them together.  I learned in an "out of hours" brass casting class sponsored by a University Fine arts department; so good safety training.  Most people in the class were doing jewelry; my friend and I were doing blade fittings.  The next time the class was offered there was a limit to the amount of brass you could use per casting...

(Your punisher reminds me of a SCA knighting belt we did for a person who studied the "death cults" of the plague years.  We cast a bunch of flat skulls to go around the belt using the vents left on to rivet them to the leather with a larger cast belt buckle.  I don't remember how many ounces it ended up as!)

[11xray]

Man, those sound like really fun projects. I made some near-Petrobond using pure bentonite clay and ULTRA fine (like, goes through a flour strainer) sand I got at Petsmart that is used for reptile aquariums. I’ve made some humorous items that I can’t mention here for a friend that dives. The punisher skull template was made using a 3D printer, then transferred to my green sand. I was going to keep working the metal on the sander/grinder but I kind-of like the imperfections. 

Lately, I’ve been testing some custom alloys using aluminum and zinc, but I haven’t found the right mix for this project. The current ratio leaves the product too brittle, so I need to tune down the zinc. 

[ThomasPowers]

Have you tried any "aluminum bronze"  Al + Cu, It's funny in that the copper will dissolve in molten aluminum even though it's way under the Cu melting point!  I have a good friend who's really into casting, his wife thought that woodworking was too dangerous for him...(for good reason, he almost qualified for counting in Octal, save for great surgeons...).

For my "little" pours I have been using my forge to melt the metal.

[11xray]

I haven't made alu-bronze before, but that's just because I haven't had a use for it. One of the Youtubers I watch frequently is BigStack'D, and he does a lot of alloys. I like the Nordic Gold alloy in those videos. I'm also learning how to use my new CNC to mill graphite slabs into molds for pouring. There's a lot to learn, everywhere I look.  

[ThomasPowers]

I recently gave away a 14" diameter x 8" tall section of a graphite electrode from a  VERY LARGE ARC furnace.  Gave it to a glass worker as it had been sitting on a shelf in my shop for about 18 years.  Milling graphite is excessively dirty!

One of the IFI folks uses 3-D printing to make positives for lost wax castings for blade furniture, goes by TheoRockNazz; you might track down his posts to see how he's doing things.  He's around NYC IIRC.