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Got this home yesterday  but still need to get off the trailer as it’s about 2 ton and my friends digger didn’t lift it, it’s a 125lb tup, needs a little work, no idea of the year, trying to find out how deep the footing should be and any other information, it’s a little big for my small shop so I need to make an extension. 

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Oooooh NICE! I'm feeling power hammer envy. A rough terrain fork lift will lift and move that easily enough, maybe not at full extension so don't get silly. 

What you need for a pad depends more on your soil conditions than how you make it. Modern concrete and foundation designs don't require timber cribbing and some of the things you see in the old books. 

Have you driven ground rods in the area? If so how much resistance did it/they exhibit?  

Frosty The Lucky.

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I am so rural and in the bush that a fork lift and hireing anything is almost out of the question, one guy had a go with a digger that was too light but another guy is coming soon to have a go with a bigger one, ground is very hard here it’s clay and rock. I have to get the hammer down a steep dirt road. I am going to put it in front of my small shop and extend the building over it, motor had been made to mount on top of the hammer but I will mount it next to it 

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Are you so remote you need to build a steel or heavy timber A frame, winch it up, drive out from under it and lower it to the ground? I've done that I don't know how many times. Leave it rigged to lift though so you don't have to re-rig it to lift it onto the sledge you build to drag it to it's new home. Remember to knock the A frame down and load it on the sledge to take with. You'll want it again, Promise!

Do you get enough rain to make your soil muddy soft?

Frosty The Lucky.

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Posted (edited)

I might have to A frame it off the trailer because it belongs to a friend and he just got it and needs it, someone was saying he has a skid steer that can lift 1000 kgs on the forks 

Edited by Mod30
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Doesn't your hammer weigh 2,000kg? Or does it weight 2short/English tons? 

Assuming it's within range for the skid steel keep it really close to the boom, skid steers tend to tip onto their noses pretty easily. Doesn't hurt the skid steer but the hammer might not do so well. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Posted (edited)

People reckon it’s well under 2000 kgs so with the anvil off I hope it would be ok on the skid steer, I will strop it on, it’s a tracked skid steer 

I might take the clutch and hammer off to clean them and thatbwouldnmakenit lighter

Edited by Mod30
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If you can break it down you should be good. If worse comes to worse a track skid steer shouldn't have any trouble dragging it on a sledge. 

A decent wrecker should be able to sling a less than 2 ton load. Might cost a bit have an auto salvage yard reasonable close? I have one just under 2 miles up my road so I can get quick loads moved for $25, if they're not busy of course.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Anvil is all really off, I bolted it on loosely for putting it on the trailer, there is nothing close to me, unfortunately, there is no 3 phase power, and some of the roads don’t even have power and they are all dirt roads round here, I have a home made phase converter witch works well, 

 

todays task is to dig the foundation and look at removing more off the hammer.

I have been thinking about making my own wrecker from an old Ute but it would have a big boom and a chain block on it just for moving heavy stuff around here.

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5 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

The anvil is definitely a separate item in those pictures.  It may take some finessing to get it apart though.  Oh Parallel Posting!

 

It is separate, I just bolted them together for transportation on the trailer to make it extra bottom heavy 

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Are they actually cast iron bearings? My Little Giant is cast iron but the bearings are babbit. The journals and caps look like yours but there is babbit between the shaft and frame. 

There ARE polished cast iron bearings but I see images in a situation like a power hammer. That doesn't mean yours aren't cast iron bearings, I don't know. I do however think it's something you should double check and be sure. Do you have the manual? 

Frosty The Lucky.

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They are cast iron bearings, I don’t have a manual, possibly this hammer was made in NZ under license by Atlas, 

the bearing caps have round un threaded holes, witch must of had press in cups with felt on them? They had no sign of grease , someone must have swiped them at some stage.

 

i am making a video of the features and I will make more videos of repairing the hammer and add them to my YouTube.

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Please no videos, links to a youtube channel is a good thing. Lots of Iforge members live places where their connection is dial up and they pay for data so we try not to use more bandwidth than necessary so they can afford to stay around. Besides shaky videos moving fast and at odd angles do NOT show details well. A few well placed and lit photos we can take out time looking at, zoom on details, etc. are much more informative. 

Do you have calipers? Dial or vernier either will do. If so measure the diameter of the shaft journals and the ID of the matching journals on the machine. If they're not within a couple thousandths of an inch then they weren't iron to iron bearings.

Polished steel on polished iron has to be very precise, clearances on the order of a thousandths or so. If there's much rust I don't know how you'll get them close enough to work steel on iron.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Don’t worry I make videos for my YouTube all the time, I have a very xxxxxx internet connection and can’t use my phone data,

 

i have a Vernier and a micromotor, I trained as a mechanic for vintage cars and motorcycles, I have pored Babbitt bearings, theses are definitely cast iron, I have one a scrape on the outside edge. No real rust putting apart from the back one witch has a mark from where the bearing shim was rusting next to it

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