M.J.Lampert Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 10 hours ago, Stash said: both top and bottom dies are each held in place by 2 3/8" bolts tapped into the upper and lower plates. ok that is what i thought just wanted to make sure here is my design M.J.Lampert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 Dollars to doughnuts that top bar will end up bending. You want a much heavier crossbar at the top of the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stash Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 Agreed, John. Even for a Krispy Kreme. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted July 4, 2021 Author Share Posted July 4, 2021 13 hours ago, JHCC said: that top bar will end up bending. i most likly will put collars on the bar but 1in is as large as i can go as the cylender has a 1 in hole to hook on anyways i got this 2 weeks ago and never had time to post 2 gallons of cast-o-lit-30 (19lb) (11ish aready used), 1/2 pint of "ITC 100" refractery coating, 1 sheet each 800 and 1200 grit paper, 1 each scalloped edge 2X72 in belts 220 and 320 grit, 1X sanding belt cleaner, 1075 1/8X2X24in , 1095 1/8X2X25in, and 1095 3/16X2X24. plus they sent me a lovely little sticker as a thank you my fathe gave me some highgrade brass bushings and wear-plates to melt if i ever try cast brass handles also he gave me a box of buncher teeth to mess with they spark HC and work decent from bright red up now to figure out what to do with them M.J.Lampert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted July 4, 2021 Share Posted July 4, 2021 The problem is that you’ll have a fairly wide unsupported span, and that rod will deflect upwards every time the dies make contact. I don’t see anything that would keep the eye from moving sideways, and you’ll need a lot more rigid connection with the top crosspiece. (Admittedly, I know it’s possible that some parts may be hidden in this Onshape view.) I would recommend turning the eye 90° and securing it between two close-fitting brackets with a heavy bolt, like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goods Posted July 4, 2021 Share Posted July 4, 2021 MJ, when I first saw you CAD, I wanted to say this didn’t. I haven’t built my own press, but work in a big auto parts plant and I’m responsible for a large portion of the process equipment. I was hope others, like John who have build there own presses would jump in first… Here’s my two cents: You’re going to want that frame strong and rigid. You will also need thicker sections to hold the pin for the cylinder as John shows, at least 1/2”~3/4” thick. If it’s too thin it’ll mushroom and/or cut into the pin. The load bearing surface should probably be more the the cross sectional are of the pin. You’re going to want the pin/bolt to wear before anything else. Not hard to replace a pin if it not too worn, but do you really want to have to cut your weldment a part to fix a simple wear issue? As a side note, if you can put some type of floating coupling between the upper die holder and the cylinder and put a longer vertical guide on the sides riding in the frame to keep it square. It will save wear and tear on the cylinder rod and seals. (I really wouldn’t want a leaking rod seal on a forging press, and bend the rod and it’s done… ) As it’s drawn now, if you put your steel in off center, that’s going to put on heck of a bending moment on the rod. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted July 6, 2021 Author Share Posted July 6, 2021 ok i see what yall are talking bout i would have had some 1/4 or 3/8 sheet welded beside it and some 1/4 or 3/8 bar n the sides to keep the movement down sideways for the upper what would you use 1x4flat or should it be larger also on the mod would you please move this into the press sub forum as i don't want to be high-jacking this thread thanks M.J.Lampert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted July 15, 2021 Author Share Posted July 15, 2021 ok so here it is 1/2 inch plates on the underside of a 2x4 steel bar should i do 1 or 2 plates in the middle?and how it looks now M.J.Lampert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goods Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 Ok, is that a cylinder with different mounting options than the original CAD model? (Just a bit confused…) That setup should hold up very well. Is your plan to just weld your frame together? If it were me, I’d put two 3/4” bolts through the top plate into the side frames and then weld all the way around. Again, I would recommend some stout 90 brackets on the end of you upper tooling plate to help keep in keeping it parallel. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted July 18, 2021 Author Share Posted July 18, 2021 On 7/16/2021 at 1:37 PM, Goods said: Ok, is that a cylinder with different mounting options than the original CAD model? (Just a bit confused…) That setup should hold up very well. Again, I would recommend some stout 90 brackets on the end of you upper tooling plate to help keep in keeping it parallel. David to your first Q yes it looks different for the rod through it didnt matter if it was accurate inside so i didnt bother but for the new design it is needed so i took the time to put the gap in it i will remember to put the side supports on later M.J.Lampert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted July 20, 2021 Author Share Posted July 20, 2021 ok and now we have a finished drawing with general dimensions if you want more detailed drawings please PM me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 20, 2021 Share Posted July 20, 2021 What's keeping the upper die plate from cocking? As drawn the ram is just hanging so it's free to swing on the pin and there's nothing to guide the die. I've seen hydraulic cylinders with free rams but the cylinder usually cast and bolted to the frame solidly. On heavy punches the hyd cylinder is part of the frame casting. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted August 3, 2021 Author Share Posted August 3, 2021 On 7/19/2021 at 11:15 PM, Frosty said: What's keeping the upper die plate from cocking? sorry it took so long to reply there is a piece of pipe on the plate that the rod sits in (sorry both of those parts ended up the same colour) and a set of springs to pull every thing up (i cant draw retracting springs in the program(or at least i don't know how to and neither did my teacher for the program) another change the frame will be I-beam so that will be updated and shared once its done picture of the piece after a colour change M.J.Lampert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.