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I Forge Iron

Press idea


M.J.Lampert

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10 hours ago, Stash said:

both top and bottom dies are each held in place by 2 3/8" bolts tapped into the upper and lower plates.

ok that is what i thought just wanted to make sure

here is my design 

press.jpg

M.J.Lampert

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13 hours ago, JHCC said:

that top bar will end up bending.

i most likly will put collars on the bar but 1in is as large as i can go as the cylender has a 1 in hole to hook on

anyways i got this 2 weeks ago and never had time to post 2 gallons of cast-o-lit-30 (19lb) (11ish aready used), 1/2 pint of "ITC 100" refractery coating,  1 sheet each 800 and 1200 grit paper, 1 each scalloped edge 2X72 in belts 220 and 320 grit,  1X sanding belt cleaner,  1075 1/8X2X24in , 1095 1/8X2X25in, and 1095 3/16X2X24. plus they sent me a lovely little sticker as a thank you

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my fathe gave me some highgrade brass bushings and wear-plates to melt if i ever try cast brass handles

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also he gave me a box of buncher teeth to mess with they spark HC and work decent from bright red up  now to figure out what to do with them

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M.J.Lampert

 

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The problem is that you’ll have a fairly wide unsupported span, and that rod will deflect upwards every time the dies make contact. I don’t see anything that would keep the eye from moving sideways, and you’ll need a lot more rigid connection with the top crosspiece. (Admittedly, I know it’s possible that some parts may be hidden in this Onshape view.)

I would recommend turning the eye 90° and securing it between two close-fitting brackets with a heavy bolt, like this:

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27B8929D-2074-4D22-84F0-08EB4E563B25.jpeg

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MJ, when I first saw you CAD, I wanted to say this didn’t. I haven’t built my own press, but work in a big auto parts plant and I’m responsible for a large portion of the process equipment. I was hope others, like John who have build there own presses would jump in first… Here’s my two cents:

You’re going to want that frame strong and rigid. You will also need thicker sections to hold the pin for the cylinder as John shows, at least 1/2”~3/4” thick. If it’s too thin it’ll mushroom and/or cut into the pin. The load bearing surface should probably be more the the cross sectional are of the pin. You’re going to want the pin/bolt to wear before anything else. Not hard to replace a pin if it not too worn, but do you really want to have to cut your weldment a part to fix a simple wear issue?

As a side note, if you can put some type of floating coupling between the upper die holder and the cylinder and put a longer vertical guide on the sides riding in the frame to keep it square. It will save wear and tear on the cylinder rod and seals. (I really wouldn’t want a leaking rod seal on a forging press, and bend the rod and it’s done… ) As it’s drawn now, if you put your steel in off center, that’s going to put on heck of a bending moment on the rod.

David

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ok i see what yall are talking bout i would have had some 1/4 or 3/8 sheet welded beside it and some 1/4 or 3/8 bar n the sides to keep the movement down sideways for the upper what would you use 1x4flat or should it be larger also on the 

mod would you please move this into the press sub forum as i don't want to be high-jacking this thread thanks

M.J.Lampert

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, is that a cylinder with different mounting options than the original CAD model? (Just a bit confused…) That setup should hold up very well.

Is your  plan to just weld your frame together? If it were me, I’d put two 3/4” bolts through the top plate into the side frames and then weld all the way around.

Again, I would recommend some stout 90 brackets on the end of you upper tooling plate to help keep in keeping it parallel.

David

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On 7/16/2021 at 1:37 PM, Goods said:

Ok, is that a cylinder with different mounting options than the original CAD model? (Just a bit confused…) That setup should hold up very well.

Again, I would recommend some stout 90 brackets on the end of you upper tooling plate to help keep in keeping it parallel.

David

to your first Q  yes it looks different for the rod through it didnt matter if it was accurate inside so i didnt bother but for the new design it is needed so i took the time to put the gap in it 

i will remember to put the side supports on later

M.J.Lampert

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What's keeping the upper die plate from cocking?  As drawn the ram is just hanging so it's free to swing on the pin and there's nothing to guide the die.  I've seen hydraulic cylinders with free rams but the cylinder usually cast and bolted to the frame solidly. On heavy punches the hyd cylinder is part of the frame casting. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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