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I Forge Iron

Shiny black finish on small items


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Gloss black Rustoleum is fast and easy.

Otherwise you have to get the temperature right the a polymerizing oil works well. I don't know about olive oil though, I'd have to experiment.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Olive oil is non-drying, so you'll have to get it pretty darn hot to blacken it. Rustoleum gets my vote as well. If you want to keep more of a metal finish, wire brush and then rub on a thin coat of black shoe polish.

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9 minutes ago, JHCC said:

 a thin coat of black shoe polish.

But he said it is for jewelry...

Edit:  I quoted just above post, slap my wrist if you must.  I did trim it down quite a bit though, so don't slap too hard.

Edited by LeeJustice
Oopsie
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4 minutes ago, LeeJustice said:

it is for jewelry...

Point being? We used black shoe polish in the art restoration studio for all kinds of stuff like this. You've got a high-carnauba-content wax base with very finely ground black pigment, so when it's rubbed thin and allowed to dry, you get a very nice dry sheen with a color that augments the metal underneath. 

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Not if the excess is properly buffed off. Freshly applied wax is generally quite adhesive (sticks to other things) but not terribly cohesive (sticks to itself). Think of writing on glass with a crayon and then trying to wipe the marks off. The colored wax is very hard to remove and will smear over the surface quite easily, and you have to rub very hard to get all the wax off. Warm beeswax works the same.

Paste waxes and shoe polish generally have quite harder waxes that don't smear quite as readily, so manufacturers add solvents to make them easier to rub over a larger surface. 

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Would applying shoe polish to hottish-warm steel change things? I didn't realize shoe polish contained hard waxes like carnuba but thinking back they didn't rub off once buffed out properly. 

It'd sure be easier to use than trying to get the temp right to turn Trewax black.

Frosty The Lucky.

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29 minutes ago, Frosty said:

Would applying shoe polish to hottish-warm steel change things?

Yes, it would make it more liquid, which would allow it to flow out more easily. Hence the British Army trick of softening the surface of the polish with a warm spoon before application.

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Many of the gun blues have a phosphoric acid base liquid. Same as naval Jelly.  Warming the part helps the blue bite into the surface when using a cold blue solution.  We used Oxpho Blue at the shop I worked at. 

I used some beeswax at work to get some parts loosened up and with heat from the torch it left a hard black coating.

But a gun blue is a simple dip , or wipe on process. Just keep it wet with the solution until it turns black.

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Getting back to the crux of the question, Adriaan was asking for a finish for mild steel jewelry.  That is where I am hesitant--mild steel for jewelry.  I suppose it depends.  Earring, no way.  Ring or bracelet, probably going to end up rusting, especially from sweat, swimming in a pool.  Pendants or something else, maybe.  Would you elaborate more on what type of jewelry you have in mind?

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I'm with you Lee, I wouldn't consider steel for body contact at all. However if someone I couldn't turn down insisted, I'd oven enamel it.

Enameling iron and steel is an impressive skill set in itself. I've played with torch enameling copper and it was so much fun I did some reading about iron and steel. I thought it'd make some spectacular pieces. It was trickier and more demanding at the scale I was thinking of than I wanted to get involved in. 

However: rings, necklaces, bracelets, etc. are a much different thing, I think worth considering.

Frosty The Lucky.

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